distributor for the P6

Gentlemen, I have been splitting 7 original "old" Lucas distributors last week-end in order to find a decent one to go into my engine. When reassembeling them after a solid cleaning process, I noticed that there is a mark on the counterbalance weights stating: 11 degrees on four of them and on the last three: 13 degrees. My question is (as you might have guessed...) : does this have any influence on my P6 performance? and if so, which one is the right one!!
and what influence do we talk about?
ps: I have given up the electronic distributor for the time being as new contact points can still be obtained.) Regards, Chris Varming++
 
I'll see if I can sneak in before Harvey does, Chris!

These markings will give the amount of advance generated by the weights. Each type of engine (10.5:1 CR, Range Rover etc etc) is in a slightly different state of tune, so, in theory, should get a different set of balance weights.

As a general rule the higher the state of tune the greater the amount of advance you would expect.

UNfortunately (as you've probably already spotted!) the workshop manual gives a whole raft of possible settings for the centrifugal advance. These vary through 24 degrees @4,200; 30 degrees @4,800; 23 degrees @4,400 and 28 degrees @4,800. Oh dear, and that doesn't even include Land Rover variants! Nor does it seem to relate to 11 degrees or 13 degrees!

Over to Harvey!!

While you're at it check that the vacuum advance units are working by sucking hard on the tube. The manual also lists three different types of vacuum unit! Pages 05 -2 and 05 -3 for the curious.

Chris
 
I can't really add much to the above, other than on the P6B only points distributors were fitted, and IIRC only 2 compression ratios, 10.5 and 9.35:1, so the one with the most advance would be used on the engine in the higher state of tune. Range Rovers being lower compression will be different, but we'll assume you haven't got those.
I doubt that whichever you use you will notice any difference in performance, but the one with less advance may help combat any Pinking.
 
Actually the other variable would be how strong the centrifugal springs are. We could postulate a strong set for the setting that reaches max at 4,800 and a weaker set for the others?

I go with Harvey though, use the lighter (11 degree) set of weights and the hardest springs so as to limit you're advance. Then have a read of my recent post (in the 4 cyl section?) on ignition timing for a better understanding of all the variables we are playing with here. That should help give you confidence to mess around with the timing points a bit and ignore the letter of the law in the workshop manual.

Chris
 
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