Difficulty getting into gear....

F

Fraserp6

Member
Right, was driving the car today and noticed that it's pretty difficult to select a gear. The sharp crispness of the selection seems to have made way for a vague looseness that makes getting a gear (in traffic for example) a bit of a sod. Also, there is a vibration from gearstick when the car sits in traffic.

So, I was wondering what was causing it. I've recently had the gearbox removed to change the clutch (a job I hope to never to again, it WILL be going into a garage for that next time.) and although bushing were looking a little tired, I imagined there was a little life left in them.

I imagine it's probably something along the lines of worn bushings, so ultimately is this a case of pulling the box back out to get them replaced or can they be don in situ?

Any thoughts on this would be appreciated as I can think of better things to do with my time other than pull out a gearbox in this weather.

Cheers,

Fraser
 
In that case I would say to check the spherical seat that the gearlever sits in, and the ball on the bottom of the lever (both more in hope than expectation) then look at the selector striker lever which is the most likely cause of the problem
 
I too am having selection problems and would be very grateful for some advice.
I have just fitted a new lever and spherical seat to my 3500s but here are the symptoms.
With the engine off sometimes I can freely select all the gears, but sometimes it is hard to get any of them to engage.
If I lift the black gearlever sleeve and wiggle the gearlever then I can usually free up the selection.
With the engine running and stationary it is the same. However on the move, I can change from 1st to 2nd and back to 1st, but I cannot for the life of me select 3rd from 2nd gear. I can however change from 1st to 3rd bypassing 2nd and from 3rd to 4th.
3rd back to 2nd is not possible.
Could this be the selector striker lever and if so, can this be replaced with the box in situ?
If this part number 622369 on page 11 75 of the parts catalogue?
Many thanks,
Philippe
 
Can anyone please tell me the steps to access the selector rod linkage without removing the box? Do I need to lower the box to get access or is there an easy answer? Many thanks, Philippe
 
I had gear selection problems and it turned out to be a leaking clutch slave cyl. Gears became more difficult to select, and also it was difficult to get out of gear. The symptoms developed quite rapidly. It was only apparent that the cyl was leaking when I pulled back the dust boot and found it full of fluid behind. It might be worth checking this first, it's quite an easy job to replace if it is the problem.
 
Thank you. Sometimes it's easy to forget the obvious places to look. The PO had claimed to have had changed both cylinders....I'll check and bleed as necessary and will report back. Thanks again
 
Philippe Holland said:
Can anyone please tell me the steps to access the selector rod linkage without removing the box? Do I need to lower the box to get access or is there an easy answer? Many thanks, Philippe
Click to expand...

Remove air cleaner and horizontal throttle rod, turn fan blades so the widest gap is at the bottom, slacken top hose clip, remove exhaust front pipes, remove gearlever knob, spring and sleeve, remove rear prop section, support gearbox, remove bottom speedo cable connection, remove reverse light wires, remove gearbox mounting from tunnel, lower box, (don't go too far you'll break the reserve tap, or pull the hose out of the rad.) remove gearlever, reach over top of remote and remove 4 securing nuts washers and rubbers, remove remote, fit new selector striker lever, RITRORP.
 
First of all, happy new year to everyone and many thanks for all the good advice in 2011!
I finally got around to trying to fix my gearbox selection problem on the 3500s.
I managed to remove the selector remote, after following Harvey's advice...small hands are needed and it seems that the selector striker level was ok, but the bushings in the remote where no where to be found!
The selector rod was just flapping around in the remote.
What is the best solution please? Standard bushes (what are they made of please?) on should I have bronze bushes made and fitted to the remote?
The gearbox rear mount broke into pieces when I took it apart, it there a better part available?
And finally, is there a polyprop upgrade for the remote bushes (8 that fit onto the box).
Many thanks
Philippe
 
JRWadham does the two bushes that fit into the remote for the selector rod. I don't know if he does the gearbox mount, but you may be ably to modify it to use cotton reel type mounts. I've not heard of poly bushes being available for the remote mountings.
 
Hello, I am about to fit the new selector shaft bushes to the remote casting and noticed that they have a 'Tophat' shape.
The 'flat' of the Tophat obviously helps locate the bush in place, but if the selector rod is going backwards and forwards
I am not sure which way round they should go.
Can anyone please tell me which way round they should be fitted or if it even makes any difference?

Many thanks,
Philippe
 
Philippe

This is how I fitted mine

CIMG3454.jpg


The parts diagram doesn't show these as being top hat bushes and I'm starting to think that maybe I should've fitted the one closer to the selector finger the other way round. My theory being that if the bush is longer than the distance to both selector finger and the other end then it will never slip out completely.

One thing's for sure though, when you've got it back in again your gear selection will be great :D

Dave
 
I didn't know that the new ones were that shape, OE ones had a lip both sides so they couldn't move either way, so with the ones you've just bought, I can understand your predicament, but there isn't anyway to overcome the problem, one way they're always going to be able to move. All I could suggest is glueing them in place.
Strange to think why they've been made that way as although they would be more difficult to fit, I can't see any reason why they would be any more difficult to make if they were made the same as the originals.
 
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