Cylinder head - To seal or replace

S

skilly

New Member
Hi Guys

Just as I've sorted out the fueling problem I had, another problem has developed. The car started to overheat on my way to work yesterday, when I lifted the bonnet I could see steam and water bubbling (sometimes a fine jet of water was squirting out) from the cylinder head just above the top of the engine side plate I assume it the gasket thats gone. The car only has to tick over from cold for 5 mins or so for this to happen again there doesn't seem to be any other water leaks. The water level in the radiator obviously drops but it seems to drop more than is visibly being lost. Also even though the temp gauge is reading very hot when you put on the heating in the car it's just cold air is this normal characteristics when the cylinder head is leaking.

I have been told by a friend that to replace the head gasket will probably cost £270 approx plus the gasket price. But I have come accross Steel Seal on the Internet and it promises to seal such leaks, it costs £30. Has anybody used this and does it work or am I throwing good money after bad. It's just I would have to sell the wife to pay for the head gasket job and I've grown quite attached to her after 20 years. So if the steel seal works I'd rather try that. If not then One wife for sale only one careful owner since new,low mileage, regularly serviced and full MOT

Cheers

Paul
 
I've used those types of sealers to seal cracked or porous blocks, but I wouldn't try to cure a head gasket leak with them. Bit the bullet, sell the wife (or just lease her out for a while) and pull the head off if you're sure that's the problem, (and it does sound like it)
Once the head is off you may find the water ways have enlarged through corrosion.

That labour price seems a bit steep to me ISTR the book time was less than 5 hours, so even allowing for some problems you SHOULD get away with 6 at the most. Depends on what happens when you remove it though.
 
I'm sure Auntie Madge will be pleased to hear your wife has been regularly serviced ...........

I know someone who tried Devcon for a similar problem - it doesn't last long due to expansion and contraction

Are you sure it's not the side plate or gasket leaking ?
 
Change the head gasket every time, you'll only end up damaging if not. If the gasket has gone then I would expect that now the torque settings of the head bolts will be wrong so could run the risk of warping the head.

£270 if paying someone to do it sounds a bit steep but could be right, do it your self and it'll be £10!!! eBay head gasket I've brought two from these guys. One when I fixed a bad valve and one when I rebuilt the engine. Both were very good quality.

Shame you don't live on the Island, I would come over and help you out. Its an easy job, only special tool is a torque wrench.

I could do one in about an hour and a half, but then I've had good practice lately. ;)
 
The engine side plates look in good condition. How can you distinguish if it's the head gasket or engine side plate gasket?. These areas are very close together.

Paul
 
thanks for the info Richard. Gasket for £6 plus p&p looks a bargin especially if you have used them and can vouch for their quality.

I did contemplate doing the job my self however on reading the haynes manual it looked a bit tricky especially as it mentions the removal of the cam shaft etc.

if there are any other offers out there to give me a hand to do it myself and you live in the Glasgow area then I would be delighted to hear from you.

Paul
 
Sorry forgot to ask. Will the cylinder head gasket on its own be sufficient or will I need a full gasket set.

Paul
 
I must say I'd be inclined to treat the side plates as consummables. Nor are they very expensive. Try allrovers on Ebay for a set. If he isn't actually advertising any then just go to his member profile and send him an e mail.

ChrisWith the head and all the manifolding off they are very easy to change. Much less so if they go subsequently!

Chris
 
skilly said:
Sorry forgot to ask. Will the cylinder head gasket on its own be sufficient or will I need a full gasket set.

Paul
Click to expand...
I wouldn't get a full head set, but the minimum you will need are the head gasket and oilway "O" ring, camcover gasket, 3 rubbers and copper washers, and the gasket for the tensioner access plate.

If you don't peg up the camshaft correctly, and do the head bolts in the right order (which is not necessarily the order in the book) it's possible so snap the camshaft in two.
 
chrisyork said:
I must say I'd be inclined to treat the side plates as consummables. Nor are they very expensive. Try allrovers on Ebay for a set. If he isn't actually advertising any then just go to his member profile and send him an e mail.

ChrisWith the head and all the manifolding off they are very easy to change. Much less so if they go subsequently!

Chris
Click to expand...
Going by the experience I had with my engine I would only do the side plates if they are leaking. I don't know how you can tell if the leak is very close. I would say they are harder than doing the head as the bolts behind the oil pump are a pain to get to. As my engine was dismantled I put them on first. But the thing to watch out for if you do change them is the bolts. All of mine had become very week after 35 years being attached to the engine. Getting replacements is not hard but does need some searching as not everyone can do 1/4 UNC 1/2 long bolts. The lower ones have to be this length as the bolt hole does not enter the water jacket so a longer bolt will not go all the way in. If you see what I mean.

Apart from the warning from Harvey I think these heads are one of the easier heads on a car I've removed. Don't worry about removing the cam, sounds worst than it really is. Just take that easy as the pots that sit over the valves can say in the cam holder and then drop out once your clear, not good. So as you lift it give them a tap so they stay behind.

You'll need a 11/16th 1/2 drive socket for the head bolts and a 5/8ths 1/2 drive socket for the front two bolts that hold in front bearing. These need torquing as well as the head, hence the 1/2 drive for the torque wrench.

I don't know what you've done on cars before but if you've done a clutch on a car before then this will be within your skill level.

You don't need a full set, depending on the state of the rocker cover gasket. The head only set comes with the O ring that goes on the back for the oil way there.

Be careful when you pop off the cover that will give you access to the chain tensioner as these can be a little brittle.

If you have a spare pair of hands get them to help to lift it of, they are heavy with the exhaust manifold still attached, which I would recommend. Gives something good to get hold off.

Also make sure you keep the chain tensioner secured. Don't want it falling into the sump, although I think that's unlightly. But sods law would say it would.

Whilst the head of worth while checking the rear inspection plate. Mine started to leek soon after I replaced the head the first time. Typical. Can be done with the head on but you loose some knuckle skin.
 
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