Cutting out after driving for about a minute.

phil wrote,...
That is after idling for ages as I have been tinkering with various bits to check it won't break down! (Which it still does.)
Click to expand...

Ok that is fair enough then given as things stand. If you just take it for a drive from cold, it still dies within a few minutes? Given you are using a second electric pump, the first pump was therefore not faulty as the outcome is the same with each. Bubbles in the line suggest vapourisation before the pump, so unless you put some 98 octane in so as to rule out the 95, my suggestion would be to relocate the pump. Under the rear beneath the tank will prevent this from happening.

Ron.
 
Ok. It definately runs for longer with the new pump. I can physically see the filter filling with petrol when the key is turned from cold. I will have another play this afternoon and update. Where did you run your wires from for your pump?
 
Ron (and Phil)

I really wouldn't do the pump relocate yet. Don't forget, the car was "bodged" to the electric pump to get it to run for sale, so my betting is that there is a hidden crime in the new fuel piping to the pump / and or it runs far too close to the manifold. Since re-routing the fuel line to outside of the engine bay is a (relatively) quick and simple task I'd definitely try that first.

The same result on both main and reserve tends to imply that the problem is forward of the reserve tap.

Chris
 
Pipe relocated away from manifold, idling on drive with bonnet down. Filter nearly empty but still running at operating temp. It does sound like it may cut out. Would super unleaded really help that much? Again, I am grateful for all advice recieved. :)
 
Just openned bonnet to check filter level, the inner wings are almost too hot to touch. Is that normal?? In fact the whole engine bay is including slam panel. Ignition timing?
 
Ok, had bubbly fuel again, however not before the pump out of my blue Peter fuel line but clearly after the pump. I have moved the pump to somewhere else and have successfully managed to do two laps of my housing estate. I need to go get some petrol now. I can't tell you how scared I am!
 
My V8 did exactly the same thing when I bought it 17 years ago, with exactly the same symptoms you describe. The old boy kept saying about these new (expensive) spark plugs he had installed in it. Turns out these were the wrong ones and the gaps were much larger than they should have been. After these were replaced the car ran fine.
 
Plugs? Never gave them much thought as the bloke who I bought it off said they were new. Hmm maybe I should be so trusting!


I am back from the fuel station. No dramas!
 
phil said:
Just openned bonnet to check filter level, the inner wings are almost too hot to touch. Is that normal?? In fact the whole engine bay is including slam panel. Ignition timing?
Click to expand...

No, the radiator fan should remove most of the heat from under bonnet
I think some photos could be useful, it really sounds like you should have some one who is familiar with the P6b have a look to see if there have been some bodges done.

Graeme
 
Its now running faultlessly. After normal driving, checking under the bonnet the bay is what I would call normal temperature, I guess I may have been clutching at straws. The car had been running stationary on my drive for testing when I found that so I guess that is fair enough.
 
100_3962.jpg

100_3963.jpg

100_3964.jpg

I was going to reroute the fuel hose out into the wheel arch as Chris said, but I couldn't see how, so I made a metal pipe like so.. Anyone see an issue with that?
 
A picture is worth a thousand words as the saying goes Phil. Your fuel line has certainly been re routed, and running the line above the exhaust manifold is not a good idea. I appreciate that is not your doing, but moving it would be advisable to ensure long term reliablity.

Glad it is running better, what fuel did you put in it? When it is cold, pull out a spark plug, they should be (assuming the heads are original) Champion L92YC or the NGK equivalent.

Ron.
 
Hi Ron, it now has 97 Ron in it. Closest I could find but the cure was rerouting the pipe from Under the manifold to where you see. I don't like it there much as it looks untidy but it stays cool there. The pipe under the manifold was causing issue. Bypassing it as I have has cured. Long term I would like it somewhere prettier. Could someone post a pic of where they have put theirs?
I cannot understand for the life of me why a pipe that has been there for forty years would suddenly cause such irritating problems. Could someone explain in simple terms??
 
Hello Phil,

The fuel line was never originally under the inlet manifold or the exhaust manifold for that matter. It ran alongside the block just above the interface with the sump, as you see in the photo above of my engine.

Fuel vapourisation is as I see it either layed squarely at the feet of the fuel being used and / or some maintenance is required. It was happening well over 20 years ago so it is not a new phenomena. You will find a number of discussions in this section of the forum on this topic.

As far as re routing your existing pipe, I would consider cutting the metal line at the back of the engine where it meets the plastic pipe, attaching a length of the braided fuel hose that you are using, and running it essentially in the same position as you see with mine. You can affix it at various points along the route so as to prevent free movement.

Ron.
 
What else could be wrong with it? Is there some issue I haven't thought of with my fuel pipe routing? It is well away from the manifold, next to the wiring loom.

Does anyone use regular unleaded in their V8? Or does everyone use super unleaded?
 
SydneyRoverP6B said:
Fuel wise, your best option Phil is to stick with 98 octane.

Ron.
Click to expand...
I have been filling with the highest octane I can find. :) Thanks for your help Ron, much appreciated. :D
 
Phil

The fundamental problem is now sorted, subject to you being happy with the route, neatness etc of the new fuel line route.

From here on in it's just a case of going through the engine bit at a time to get it right.

I'm sorry, but I've lost track of what else you've done so far. It's quite clear the car has been neglected and then bodged prior to sale, so I'd assume that everything needs doing.

I always recommend to start with the ignition system. No amount of fiddling with carbs if the ignition system isn't right will produce results and you'll just have to do it all again after the ignition is right.

So step one is a basic ignition service. New points, plugs, distributor cap, rotor arm and leads. Better, fit an electronic ignition - they're only around £30. Not so the ignition leads. Rover V8's are very sensitive to bad leads and the only ones that really work are Magnecor's I'll let you discover the horrifying price....

Along the way test the vacuum advance retard unit (suck on the pipe and make sure it moves the distributor base plate). Depending how competent you feel, have the distributor base plate out and thoroughly clean and leave dry the mechanical advance retard fly weights. Make sure the springs are attached!

Finally time the engine. Make sure first that the TDC marker is correct by turning the engine to TDC on No 1 with a pencil down the bore to check.

Anything here that doesn't make sense or you're not sure of just ask and we can all elaborate with pictures.

Once the ignition system is sorted then we can go on to sort out the carbs.

Chris
 
Hi Chris, thanks, the car is going like a train. I am utterly delighted, I think I will order an electronic kit. It does bother me that the car was obviously ok for forty years and then suddenly not. I will try and neaten out my pipe but I can't see it causing any issues. Is copper brake pipe suitable for petrol? I have used steel as I thought copper would cause issues with the petrol but maybe not? It would certainly be easier to shape.
 
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