Cavity wax - Dinitrol, application ???

B

BBLongman

New Member
Got my painted shell back this morning :D

I want to inject cavity wax into the box sections before I build the car up but I thought it would be best to check and see if you could collectively advise on the:

1) Product (I'm thinking of Dinitrol 3125)
2) Quantity (I'm guessing at 3 to 4 litres
3) Application, I was thinking of using a shutz gun with piece of tube on the end. Is this very silly and if so whats the best method.

As ever any advice very much appreciated.

Bennet
 
Go with the Dinitrol !

Ring 'Uncle Ian' on 01302 750747 for suppliers.
He uses a lot and gets a better rate than your general 'Joe Public'.

Ian can also tell you how much and what 'implements' to use.
 
hi,
yes i used dinitrol cavity wax and used 4 litres on the NADA copy i did. used a schultz gun and extended pipe on the end in hard to get to places. as you get spraying you will see the mist coming out of all the holes ( the ones that should be there ) knowing you are getting a good coverage. i bought some more a couple of months ago but can't remember where i got it from. ( i sent away )
 
'Frost' supply mail order Dinitrol products.
As well as 3125 they can supply Dinitrol aerosol cans (called 'ML' or similar). This stuff is a really thin fluid and is great for double-skinned seams and the like. It really gets into the smallest gaps between spot-welds etc.
 
Sounds like dinitrol it is then!

Thanks for info on quantities Ian and it's good to hear a shultz gun will do the job as an injector kit is pretty pricey at £50.

Thanks PeterB76 I like the sound of the ML stuff so I'll check that out as well.

Bennet
 
Did the morris minor not used to sell this stuff? Charles Ware? I seem to recall buying it there some years ago.

I just use wayol as a maintenance type application - put the (opened) can in a bucket of hot water for half an hour and it flows real well - but agree dinitrol is a better product
 
Does Dinitrol 3125 dry hard?

I was on the Frost website and they also sell 4941, Black underbody coating which works best over 3125. I dont fancy brushing paint onto waxy slush!
 
Don't know the answer to that one but the dinitrol black underbody coating is suposed to be very good. I used standard body shutz (or is it shultz??) but I've seen Ian's NADA replica where it's been used and it looks a lot better with a finish that looked like gloss black. Apparently it self heals if it get chipped.
 
Tried injecting the dinitrol wax (3125) using a body shutz gun with a bit of tube on the end today. Result one half empty can of body shutz and one thoroughly wax proofed person!

The can had nearly exploded due to pressure build up. Has anyone managed to this successfully? Obviously the pressure is to high but the shutz only seemed to dribble out of the pipe despite the excessive pressure and the bulging can.

Please tell what to do before I splot another fivers worth of dinitrol on the garage floor!
 
Hi Bennet,

I've only now spotted this discussion subject, even though it is several months old.

I used Dinitrol ML in aerosol cans. I bought it from Frosts. They sold me an extension tube that plugs into the aerosol nozzle and I reached everywhere with it.

Dinitrol ML is oily and sprays and covers well. It dries to a tacky waxy finish. I tried some other Dinitrol products but they were too difficult to use. I'd recommend the ML.

I think that I used about 12 cans (6 litres). I recall it being reassuringly expensive, like Stella Artois, and it certainly reached the parts other rustproofing poducts could not reach.
 
No views on the relative merits of Dinitrol vs others for exposed areas but I have a very strong preference for closed cell foam for all box sections and other cavities. You buy this as a two pack from fibreglass merchants (do it yourself canoes etc). You mix ithe two liquids together and then have about 5 minutes to get roughly into the desired space. It then foms up hugely, oozes out of all the seams and after about half an hour sets rock hard. It bonds to the tin and because its closed cell does not absorb moisture. Big plus point to me is that it also acts as sound deadening.
 
My car was full of that when I started restoring it and I cursed it as I pryed every last morsel from the Dpost etc!

I'm not sure how I feel about it. I think it had been put into quite rusty sections and not done them any favours in terms of retarding further corrosion (although that was probably not the point)

Are you not concerned about it trapping moisture between the foam and the metal?
 
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