BW35 Service Instructions

SydneyRoverP6B

SydneyRoverP6B

Well-Known Member
Staff member
The workshop manual for the 3500 lists two methods for checking the transmission fluid level as it applies to the BW35. One with the engine running, the other with it off. In the BW35/65 Checklist Harvey replied to a question on this subject as to whether it would make a difference to which he replied “Yes it does make a difference and the book is wrong”

That seems fair and reasonable for whenever I have mentioned it to a transmission mechanic he too has said that it is carried out with the engine running.

So now I am wondering as to why in the official Borg Warner Service manual for the 35 transmission it says that the engine must be switched off! You would hope seeing that Borg Warner designed the transmission that they would know the correct method for servicing.

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So is the method with the engine running a blanket approach unless the transmission manufacturer specifies otherwise? Harvey, have you seen documentation from Borg Warner to the contrary? Where did the engine on method come from?

Ford Australia also included the Borg Warner engine off method in their workshop manuals right up until circa 1992 but with the additional requirement that the level must be checked within 10 seconds of having done so. Cars manufactured after this time were no longer fitted with the BW 3 speed transmission.

Ron.
 
Consider that in the same light that the Rover P6 book says that you need to remove the engine/transmission as a whole unit to enable the (manual) gearbox to be removed, and that to replace P6 rear pads you need to use that special Girling tool.
Same thing applies to the Borg Warner book you have. It may say to switch off in there but that doesn't make it the best way to do it.
 
harveyp6 wrote,...
Consider that in the same light that the Rover P6 book says that you need to remove the engine/transmission as a whole unit to enable the (manual) gearbox to be removed, and that to replace P6 rear pads you need to use that special Girling tool.
Same thing applies to the Borg Warner book you have. It may say to switch off in there but that doesn't make it the best way to do it.
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I agree Harvey in that there are indeed more than one way to achieve a desired outcome. Until I came across this manual though I had not really given alternatives in this regard much consideration. I would imagine that both methods are indeed correct for logical reasons and anyone who was interested could indeed carry out an experiment to compare and contrast the two approaches. I would expect that provided both were undertaken with due care and attention that there would not be a discernible difference between them.

Ron.
 
That may be so Ron, but I wouldn't advise any forum members to do other than follow Harvey's advice to check at idle.

Harvey is an acknowledged expert on Borg Warner boxes at a national level here - for all makes not just for Rover's - he even advises the US how to look after them - so If the BW book is in confllict with Harvey, I'd go with Harvey!

I note also you have been advising people in Aus to use TQF - F. I thought the approved fluid was to G spec, not F? perhaps Harvey could shed some light on the difference.

Chris
 
chrisyork said:
I note also you have been advising people in Aus to use TQF - F. I thought the approved fluid was to G spec, not F? perhaps Harvey could shed some light on the difference.

Chris
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F was the original specification, later superceded by G, so either would be OK, but the chances are you won't buy F now anyway.

Back to the original post, Borg Warner AFAIK never ran a factory course at Letchworth, it was just an assembly plant, if you wanted to get on one you had to go to the one they ran at the Triumph factory, and I have the booklet for that course, and it says to check the level with the engine idling.

And BTW, on the subject of "experts", "X" is the unknown factor, and a spurt is a drip under pressure......
 
chrisyork wrote,...
That may be so Ron, but I wouldn't advise any forum members to do other than follow Harvey's advice to check at idle.
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Hello Chris,

I didn't advocate abandonment rather an experiment for anyone who was interested. It is good to question, not just to follow slavishly.

Ron.
 
How much oil you must refil after removing oilpan???
Today i buyed 11 ltr Kroon ATF-F classic.
In the Rover manuel i read : gearbox 8 ltr, but i have filled 6 ltr and now the oil is filled complete at the top off the filler hose.
Is this normal ?
 
You won't get anywhere near that amount out when you remove the sump, as a majority of the fluid will remain in the converter. Even if you left it draining I'd guess you'd be lucky to get 3 litres out. If it's at the top of the dipstick tube, and you haven't got an empty (new) converter then you've massively overfilled it. The more I think about it the more I think you won't even get near 3 litres out on a normal drain, but you're going to be getting a lot more than that out now.....
 
Ok thanks, now i have a small leakage i don't know exactly but i think the connection with the speedo cable.
I think it is because it is overfilled.
 
Hans said:
Ok thanks, now i have a small leakage i don't know exactly but i think the connection with the speedo cable.
I think it is because it is overfilled.
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I think you're probably right.
 
Instead of draining the trans oil I decided to drop the pan and check for sediment build up.
Ive never changed the oil like this before.
Rather easy to remove as most of the bolts were quite loosely tightened. Not to the factory workshop manual torque.
This would explain the mud and dust build up on the outside of the sump.
Pleasantly surprised . Not much sediment but found a small magnet attached to the inside of the pan that had collected a great deal of black muddy scunge.
Is this a normal fitment ? I cant find a mention of a pan magnet in the Rover Workshop Manual.
And the black scunge - is this normal wear and tear after 15ys ??
After the oil change and 3km drive she changes and pulls as normal and no leaks .
Gerald
72 P6b
 
GRTV8 said:
Not much sediment but found a small magnet attached to the inside of the pan that had collected a great deal of black muddy scunge.
Is this a normal fitment ? I cant find a mention of a pan magnet in the Rover Workshop Manual.
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Magnets are a normal fitment, all boxes should have one. For the pedants amongst us, it should be attached to one of the rear servo mounting bolts. (Which, hopefully, you will have checked for tightness while the sump was off.) If it's all covered in "scunge" (is that some kind of technical term?) it shows it's doing its job. They tend to come out looking like a little hedgehog.
 
Hello HarveyP6
Im kicking myself for not doing more exploratory work whilst the sump pan was off.
Never changed oil this way before.
I was lying on my back in the middle of the drive with all the oils dropped ,anticipating wifey home any moment ,and the weather about to cave in. Hurry Hurry.
It was supposed to be a quick oil change but was struggling with the pan plug , so decided to undo all the bolts when I found some very loose.
I understand now that everything is back in place , there were a few things I could have done whilst on my back .like the filter and as you mentioned -servo .
Next oil change I will more prept.

Yes the magnet did look like a small hedgehog , and the particles the texture of mud.
Is this normal after 15yrs of no maintenance ?

Why would a guy build a 12m x12m shed and not put in a service pit ? With lighting ,tools close to hand . Duhh!!

And you are right the " Hill Hold " only works in 2
I would keep her in D and give her a few more revs to stay motionless. No wonder Ive got hedgehogs in the sump!
After 40yrs Ive only just found that out .
I dont get out enough ,esp stopping on hills.
thanks for your input
much appreciated
Gerald
72 P6b
 
GRTV8 said:
Yes the magnet did look like a small hedgehog , and the particles the texture of mud.
Is this normal after 15yrs of no maintenance ?
Click to expand...

That's what most of them look like, it just proves they're doing their job. Ideally they'd be clean, because there wouldn't be anything floating about in there for them to pick up, but in the real world we know that's not the case.

Never good to do those sorts of jobs when you're in a hurry. I bet you didn't hammer the gasket mating surface of the sump flat again either.

Well, at least now you've got your new found toy to play with. I bet you'll be going out looking for hills to stop on.....
 
GRTV8 wrote,...
I would keep her in D and give her a few more revs to stay motionless. No wonder Ive got hedgehogs in the sump!
After 40yrs Ive only just found that out .
Click to expand...

Just as well I started the "Hill Hold" thread, else you may never have known... :wink:

Ron.
 
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