Automatic Gearbox Refit

[Loopylouby]

Hello everyone can you help please?
I have just had my Rover Borg Warner 35 Autobox refurbished by VMTP c/o of Wadhams. Now I’m not a mechanic and I am enlisting the help of a mechanic friend for the refit. Now before we get started the pre-fitting instructions state that the radiator and cooler pipes must be flushed with a quick drying solvent until perfectly clean and then dried with compressed air. I am told paraffin is the ideal substance. Would anyone be able to describe the flushing procedure please? …To begin with ;-) I have also asked this question on the Rover P6 FB page but it occurred to me my question might be better placed here. Hope you can help.

 

[eightofthem]

No need to flush the radiator, what they mean is the cooler lines that travel into the radiator ( two rubber flexi pipes at the lower left hand corner )
The actual oil cooler inside the radiator is not that long, so once you remove one of the rubber hoses you can purge the lines then.
The metal lines that travel from the box to the hoses can also be purged at the same time.

Did your old box fail badly?

 

[harveyp6]

Once you've flushed and blown through the cooler and lines with paraffin you can flush through with some fresh ATF as a final check. I would suggest fitting and adjusting the inhibitor switch before refitting the box.

 

[Loopylouby]

No need to flush the radiator, what they mean is the cooler lines that travel into the radiator ( two rubber flexi pipes at the lower left hand corner )
The actual oil cooler inside the radiator is not that long, so once you remove one of the rubber hoses you can purge the lines then.
The metal lines that travel from the box to the hoses can also be purged at the same time.

Did your old box fail badly?

Hello, thanks for your reply.
To be fair I bought the car with no reverse so I had allowed for gearbox repairs. But I had no concept of what was involved. It took three months. It turned out the gearbox needed a replacement input shaft and the planetary gears were shot because the peg broke off. (Them being that big round bit to the right in the photo.) I’m not particularly hands on and only went through with the sale on this car on the condition that my mate would help. However I now realise this episode may be a new experience, although I helped him remove it. I did phone VMTP but the chap there claimed all his staff were off sick and rambled on about what should be done and asked me to phone back Monday which was a little disappointing. Especially as I was hoping to have bash at the refit tomorrow. There is one thing swapping parts but this seems quite involved.

 

[Loopylouby]

Once you've flushed and blown through the cooler and lines with paraffin you can flush through with some fresh ATF as a final check. I would suggest fitting and adjusting the inhibitor switch before refitting the box.

Thank you for your reply. Thank you for your advice on the inhibitor switch. I've actually just bought a new switch as a precaution. I recall the car would only start in Neutral. I have relied on the experience of my mechanic friend but I'm not too sure how experienced he is. The gearbox came out easily enough I'm just wondering how much of a task it's going to be to put back as I recall the radiator and prop shaft amongst other parts languishing in the shed.

 

[Loopylouby]

Once you've flushed and blown through the cooler and lines with paraffin you can flush through with some fresh ATF as a final check. I would suggest fitting and adjusting the inhibitor switch before refitting the box.

Thank you for your reply. Thank you for your advice on the inhibitor switch. I've actually just bought a new switch as a precaution. I recall the car would only start in Neutral. I have relied on the experience of my mechanic friend but I'm not too sure how experienced he is. The gearbox came out easily enough I'm just wondering how much of a task it's going to be to put back as I recall the radiator and prop shaft amongst other parts languishing in the shed.

I admit I had no concept on how to flush the specifics. When I suggested using 'brake cleaner' the chap at VMTP said it would strip the gearbox. Now obviously I want to do the right thing. But why should the brake cleaner strip the gearbox (I'm generalising) as I only need to flush the cooler pipes/radiator. This confused me. Either way he said ring back Monday or send an email to his colleague... on Monday and he would explain better. I don't see why they didn't add it to their fitting instructions.

 

[harveyp6]

Personally I'd flush it through with fresh ATF until it runs clear, but if you want to do it with paraffin first then I can't see any problem with that providing you blow all the paraffin out. The chances are that all the parts will have been washed off and blown dry using paraffin during the rebuild. I wouldn't use brake cleaner either.

 

[Loopylouby]

Personally I'd flush it through with fresh ATF until it runs clear, but if you want to do it with paraffin first then I can't see any problem with that providing you blow all the paraffin out. The chances are that all the parts will have been washed off and blown dry using paraffin during the rebuild. I wouldn't use brake cleaner either.

Thanks for that. I guess I'm just being paranoid now. My friends the mechanic and I will pass on your comments. I'm just hoping he is competent enough to get it right. This has been a long slog, the cars stripped out. We've only just fitted another diff and overhauled the rear brakes.

 

[harveyp6]

The problem you're up against is that if you don't flush through the cooler to the satisfaction of the company that overhauled the box that gives them the opportunity to void the warranty in the event that you have problems, even though that's unlikely to be the cause, so it may be best to ask them how to do it, and in the event of problems you'll be able to say that's the way you did it.

 

[Loopylouby]

The problem you're up against is that if you don't flush through the cooler to the satisfaction of the company that overhauled the box that gives them the opportunity to void the warranty in the event that you have problems, even though that's unlikely to be the cause, so it may be best to ask them how to do it, and in the event of problems you'll be able to say that's the way you did it.

That's a very good point. I had underestimated the involvement in having the box reconditioned. Initially I thought I would easily source a good second-hand one. But not a chance. In fact the existing box was from a low mileage v8 in good running order and as it turned out couldn't have had more wrong with it. So reconditioning was the only alternative if a little expensive.

 

[rockdemon]

If it makes you feel better i went through a rebuilt autobox experience a couple of years back, and once it was sorted properly with Harvey's help it was fine. Make sure the cable get's replaced too!

 

[unstable load]

Paraffin should be great, and if you really want to get fancy, do it a second time in the reverse direction to normal flow.
Once done with paraffin, blow it through with air until the outflowing line is clean and then repeat with ATF.

I'd ask the crowd that did the box for their specific instructions, though, as well as any other warranty voiding T&C's they
may have waiting to catch you out. Here in South Africa, the warranty is void if the box wasn't fitted by an "approved person".

 

[Loopylouby]

If it makes you feel better i went through a rebuilt autobox experience a couple of years back, and once it was sorted properly with Harvey's help it was fine. Make sure the cable get's replaced too!

I guess it's all a bit of a learning curve. I'm assuming you mean the kickdown cable? Fortunately a new one was fitted in 2013... well I have receipt dated 2013. I just found a receipt for a new inhibitor switch dated 2013 too. (Having just bought a new one) I have to say I'm grateful for all the help from the forum. We're going to commence operations tomorrow. I will let you know how it goes. Thanks.

 

[Loopylouby]

Paraffin should be great, and if you really want to get fancy, do it a second time in the reverse direction to normal flow.
Once done with paraffin, blow it through with air until the outflowing line is clean and then repeat with ATF.

I'd ask the crowd that did the box for their specific instructions, though, as well as any other warranty voiding T&C's they
may have waiting to catch you out. Here in South Africa, the warranty is void if the box wasn't fitted by an "approved person".

Thanks John. I will indeed. Their crib sheet is very general.

 

[Loopylouby]

Automatic Gearbox Refit - Continues...

Hello again everyone. Thank you for your advice and help in the process of my gearbox refit. Today was the most significant day so far. Oil in g/box - run to test. Seems to do what it should. However the car is still on axel stands so until we road test it I shall reserve judgement. Yes there are a couple of issues. Firstly despite fitting a new inhibitor switch and spherical bush the car will still only starts in neutral. Could it be that the wires are round the wrong way on the switch would anyone know please? (Put back as came out) One of the rear brake callipers isn't working which I assume is why the rear wheels sill rotate when the foot brake is applied. I will have to get an exchange pair. I was given the freshly fitted and set up 'New' callipers with the car but they are obviously quite old. (They looked nice though - They just don't work)
I am right in assuming that the Automatic Gear Stick Selector Unit is the same in the Series 1 Rover v8 as in the Series 2. (I'm not over impressed with the existing operation) It would also be nice if the selector indicating panel stayed where it should instead of having to guess the position. A familiar issue I know.

 

[Loopylouby]

Re: Automatic Gearbox Refit - Continues...

Hello again everyone. Thank you for your advice and help in the process of my gearbox refit. Today was the most significant day so far. Oil in g/box - run to test. Seems to do what it should. However the car is still on axel stands so until we road test it I shall reserve judgement. Yes there are a couple of issues. Firstly despite fitting a new inhibitor switch and spherical bush the car will still only starts in neutral. Could it be that the wires are round the wrong way on the switch would anyone know please? (Put back as came out) One of the rear brake callipers isn't working which I assume is why the rear wheels sill rotate when the foot brake is applied. I will have to get an exchange pair. I was given the freshly fitted and set up 'New' callipers with the car but they are obviously quite old. (They looked nice though - They just don't work)
I am right in assuming that the Automatic Gear Stick Selector Unit is the same in the Series 1 Rover v8 as in the Series 2. (I'm not over impressed with the existing operation) It would also be nice if the selector indicating panel stayed where it should instead of having to guess the position. A familiar issue I know. (image attached)

 

[harveyp6]

Re: Automatic Gearbox Refit - Continues...

. Firstly despite fitting a new inhibitor switch and spherical bush the car will still only starts in neutral. Could it be that the wires are round the wrong way on the switch would anyone know please? (Put back as came out)

Assuming the switch is correctly adjusted, if the pairs of wires are interchanged then it will start in REVERSE, and the reverse lights will work in PARK and NEUTRAL. If the wires are fitted incorrectly (ie not in pairs) then nothing will work at all.

.I am right in assuming that the Automatic Gear Stick Selector Unit is the same in the Series 1 Rover v8 as in the Series 2. (I'm not over impressed with the existing operation) It would also be nice if the selector indicating panel stayed where it should instead of having to guess the position. A familiar issue I know. (image attached)

There are several types of the selector unit you've pictured.

 

[Loopylouby]

Thank you for your reply.

I think the wiring is probably OK. I've noticed other owners have similar starting scenarios. My car is a 1970 Series 1 (UFS 162H) Yes it's the RHD NADA.
The Selector unit pictured is from a '75 3500. I have to admit I might be wiser to sort the callipers out (again) and drive the car before buying other parts I may not need.
I guess I'm a bit disappointed as I had hoped today but have been slightly more rewarding.

 

[eightofthem]

Re: Automatic Gearbox Refit - Continues...

. "Firstly despite fitting a new inhibitor switch and spherical bush the car will still only starts in neutral. Could it be that the wires are round the wrong way on the switch would anyone know please? (Put back as came out) "

Looking back at the first post on page one, the picture shows the selector rods, they look a bit out of shape which will not help matters regarding selection and starting in P n N.

Might be worthwhile if possible to straighten them out and check the lengths of each rod, from those in the book, ( be careful as some of those given are incorrect )
Or you could adjust the vertical rod from underneath ( remove the ball joint nearest the inhibit switch and select park manually via the selector arm ) then wind the ball joint upwards on the vertical rod to suit where the selector arm rests in park.

Probably a combination of bent rods, worn ball joints and a worn compensator block.

Well worth checking the wiring first though, along with the switch setting, you can check it in situ with a multimeter set on continuity.