Auto/Manual - Auto/Manual

J

JP6

New Member
Quick question guys...

1. is it possible/how easy would it be to take an engine/gearbox out of a manual 2200SC and drop it into an auto 2200SC?

2. what problems would you have taking the engine out of a manual 2200SC and bolting it onto the auto gearbox in an auto 2200SC, is it just a straight swap?

Cheers.
 
Answer to 2.
Yer, easy swap. Need to make sure you keep hold of the spacer on the crank that fits to the crank on the auto engine. Also the spacer only goes on one way, will be obvious if you get it the wrong way round.

When I get my replacement engine (looks like I've got that sorted :) ) I'm going to do a blog on fitting the auto box as it looks like its very important to get it aligned correctly. Seems that the sump being misaligned can effect alignment of the box.

Would be cool if you can post some picks of yours too. Does yours have the 'fabled' sump guard? I'm still searching for a picture of one.
:;):

You'll need to swap over some of the carb linkage for the kick down cable.

I would keep it an auto if I were you, to me the P6 suites being an auto in its old age. :cool:
 
1) I changed my auto S2 V8 to manual using the SD1 box and the worst part of the job was the clutch master cylinder. I could not find any manual cars in Cape Town, so I ended up using the SD master cylinder with some ingeniuity and it works great. The tunnel needed some malletising to fit the box, but all in all, not terrible. Going the other way should be simple as dropping it all in and possbly changing the rear mount. I'm not at all familiar with the 4 cylinders, so it's all seat of the pants for me in that department.
2) It should be easy. Remove the flywheel and fit the flex plate and torque converter. Transfer the kickdown mechanism over together with mounts etc.

Robert's your mother's brother, as they say.

As I said though, I am unfamiliar with the 4pots, so anyone out there who knows their ins and outs better should be more than able to correct me.
 
The only difference between the manual and auto engines when you remove them are the flexplate its spacer and the spigot bush
 
Going from auto to manual, clearly there are no clearance issues in the transmission tunnel (which is larger on auto base units). Also the gear lever can be expected not to present any problems since both the manual and auto use the same trim finisher on the top of the tunnel so the hole will be in the right place. Possible issues would be arranging the gearbox rear mount, but that should succumb to very simple ironmongery. I presume you will also need a propshaft from a manual car?

Chris
 
harveyp6 said:
The only difference between the manual and auto engines when you remove them are the flexplate its spacer and the spigot bush
Click to expand...
O yer, forgot the spigot bush. I was close though. :)
 
Cheers guys, looks like the plan to take a low-mileage engine from a manual and glue it to my auto-box is going to happen. Now all I need to do is find a way of getting an MoT failure from Devon to Lincolnshire without it costing me an arm, leg and kidney...
 
JP6 said:
Cheers guys, looks like the plan to take a low-mileage engine from a manual and glue it to my auto-box is going to happen. Now all I need to do is find a way of getting an MoT failure from Devon to Lincolnshire without it costing me an arm, leg and kidney...
Click to expand...
Be thankful you don't have a stretch of water in the way. :;):
 
Well, the heart transplant is done, and apart from a few small niggles we're back in business. I was especially pleased when, during the swap, we noticed the flexi drive plate was on the verge of giving in so we could fix that before it became a roadside problem. The whole thing runs smooth as silk now; no kidney punches when changing gear and no eyeball-rattling vibrations when idling. Sweet.

One small problem-ette though; the gear-shift "gates" don't appear to be in the right place. When in Drive I can push the gear selector forward enough to engage neutral before hitting a gate, which as you can imagine makes life a bit interesting. A sudden hat-full-of-revs and no drive isn't a fun thing... The gates are still there, they just feel like they're in the wrong places. I'm assuming there's a rod or a plate that needs tweaking?
 
There is a linkage adjustment, but of the three links two have set lengths and the third is to adjust and set things up.
If you check the book the lengths are in there, and also make sure the compensator mounted up on the top of the bellhousing isn't seized.
Also make sure the lever assy is not loose on the floor.

Edit: The book actually gives lengths for all three rods, so set to these and then do any minute adjustments on the vertical link.



Edited By harveyp6 on 1205358193
 
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