Adjustable air shock absorbers - P6B 3500


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In the near future I will be fitting new rear springs to my car & will also fit new shocks at the same time - what are members thought to this as against fitting standard shocks?
so many car sale modified .especially 60's - 70's . only real issue is if its a museum piece or concours! otherwise . can't see any objections. all old cars get improved over time. good luck and do post a write up and a few pics for members to look at.
I found my woodwards quite adequate for my 3500. For a shockie that is 50 odd years old, no leaks or subsidence on either side, so Ive kept with the originals. I have replaced the rubber bushes a few times over that time , but hey!
In saying that I do have a set of Monroes in case that day does turn up.
Im not a fiend for originality as Ive heaps of upgrades hidden about the P6.
So each to their own.
I believe the standard springing and damping is well chosen. What matters is that this is in good order. The rest will be down to personal preference rather than being objectively better.
I see your notes say 'Bunbury', is that as in WA? If so, what sort of roads do you drive on as that might be a consideration?
As others have suggested, the std springs and shocks do a pretty good job on 'normal' surfaces. My car came with the uprated front ARB, and it does reduce roll on most direction changes - eg roundabouts. I wouldnt make 'air' an important part of your shocker specs - unless you want to be able to change the ride height easily. To be able to use adjustable shocks sensibly you would need to get systematic, recording a starting setting, driving a course you can readily repeat, documenting your impressions, change the settings, drive, record etc. In many cases you would find that the handling has gone downhill, and need to back your changes out one or two steps. Notes - changes to one axle will produce possible unwanted changes in the other axle's behaviour. Your best bet would be to find somebody else who has been down this rabbit hole, arrived at a good set up, with documented settings, AND you find their car's handling is close to what you are looking for. Dont forget that the car's handling can change depending on its loading in terms of passengers and baggage. And that the front shocks EXTEND on bump, unlike almost every other car I know.
Here is an example I have been through. Mate and I built the Almac below from a kit. 775kg empty, front springs 250 lbf/in, rears 175, adjustable AVO shocks; MX5 1.8L + 8lbs of boost, 215rwhp. With both of us aboard (him 80kg, me 100kg), driving briskly, we got too much bottoming of the rear. We tried hardening the shocks up, but the ride was unpleasant. Got some spring advice, and went to 210 lbf/in, softened the rear shocks , problem solved.
Pic will follow when imgur recovers....
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Im of the opinion that one of the better front suspension upgrades is the ARB.
A relatively cheap and very effective change to the P6 performance in the handling dept.
Ive had my ARB for about 8 years now and the difference on our windy NZ roads and tight roundabouts is very noticeable.
Cost will be less than air shocks.
Back in the day Autocar magazine ran a long-term 3500S and in their 35,000 mile report made reference to changes they'd made. They thought the suspension 'soft and floaty' and fitted new dampers at 24,000 miles. This made no difference so they replaced the dampers with Koni ones, taughtening the suspension, reducing roll on corners slightly, much less 'float' over undulations. However, the suspension was then slightly 'knobbly' and harsh on poor surfaces.

Pros and cons, as with most changes.