worn linkages on BW35

GRTV8

GRTV8

Well-Known Member
How many end cups on the selector rod levers are there on the BW35 - Ive counted x6 - bit hard to see .
I need to order some as my gearbox wont let me select park now that Ive replaced the spherical seat the gear selector sits on .
Like Harvey said theyve probably been adjusted over the last 40 years to compensate as the spherical bearing wore down .
Im picking the selector rods are at the end of their adjustment , as Ive fiddled about for ages and am getting over it . Lying on my back getting crap off the exhaust falling in my eyes ears and mouth when I open it to swear .
Who stocks these parts ? - Im hoping they're still available
They are item 7 on page 44.15.04 of the workshop manual - gearbox auto BW35 . Best way I can describe - sorry .
Whats the correct description when I order so I dont end up with a diff assembly or linkage to a porn page .
Thanks guys
Gerald
 
Harvey P6
thanks for the part numbers .Exactly the couplings in question .I need to get a parts manual .
I'll try around of a few of the regular suppliers for he bits .
Relying on hand brake hold only ,is a bit scary .
regards
gerald
 
Hi Gerald,

Can you feel movement within the nylon cup/ball joints? Reason that I ask is mine are still the 1974 originals, and when I replaced my gear selector ball cup around 5 years ago, I encountered no problems with gear engagement.

Did you by any chance remove the gear selector knob when you replaced the ball cup? When you refitted the knob, did you install a new bung into the knob or did you reuse the old one? I could well be wrong here, but my gut feeling is telling me that if the gear selector knob is not screwed down fully, then gear selection can be hampered as it will prevent the button from being fully depressed.

Ron.
 
Ooh Eer Ron
You may have a point there as the 6x ball cups on the remotes still feel good even after 40yrs.
I'll have another look at my handy work as all was working fine until I changed the gear selector ball cup .
I used a new bung and it didnt sit down as far on the gear stick as the old one did .
Although the gates for the forward and reverse does engage
Thanks for the lead
Gerald
 
SydneyRoverP6B said:
Hi Gerald,

Can you feel movement within the nylon cup/ball joints? Reason that I ask is mine are still the 1974 originals, and when I replaced my gear selector ball cup around 5 years ago, I encountered no problems with gear engagement.

Did you by any chance remove the gear selector knob when you replaced the ball cup? When you refitted the knob, did you install a new bung into the knob or did you reuse the old one? I could well be wrong here, but my gut feeling is telling me that if the gear selector knob is not screwed down fully, then gear selection can be hampered as it will prevent the button from being fully depressed.

Ron.
Click to expand...

Hello Ron
Not happening in the gear select knob area .
Ive narrowed my " non park-select' search down to excessive movement in the housing that all the rods emanate from . The housing that sits atop the gearbox .
Good in some respects but a "b****r' in others . Such a tight area to work in . Exhaust off and driveshaft out .
Like you said Ron all the rod cup/ball joints are still good after 40yrs .
Any suggestions on the horizontal shaft on this housing ? - before I pull it to bits and go part hunting and hit a brick wall ? Are the shaft parts available ?
Looks like something a good engineer could lathe up if all else fails .
regards
Gerald
 
GRTV8 said:
Any suggestions on the horizontal shaft on this housing ? - before I pull it to bits and go part hunting and hit a brick wall ? Are the shaft parts available ?
Click to expand...
It's unlikely the bellcrank that is worn, that's steel running in the plastic slider, so the slider would be the one with the wear, and that slider runs in the ally bracket, so it could be wear there as well. They are prone to coming loose on the bellhousing, but not to wearing in the assembly to the point where they start causing problems. I have good used items of all of it. It looks like you're going to have to take it off and have a look at what's going on.
 
Ahh . Maybe I should have tightened it up before removing it .
I havnt started pulling it to bits yet , as Im busy on the farm with a timber order .
Could be a good save from you there H'P6., to me .
One thing though . Im learning how to be a bush mechanic . Thanks to this forum .
I'm relieve there are parts out there too . I'll have a closer inspection when I get a wet day off .
Dry as a bone down here at the mo . Although it rained heavily last night and filled my water tank [ the one for the house - not the car radiator ] .Total fire ban over most of the country - gives all the nummer firebugs license to appear .
 
harveyp6 said:
GRTV8 said:
Any suggestions on the horizontal shaft on this housing ? - before I pull it to bits and go part hunting and hit a brick wall ? Are the shaft parts available ?
Click to expand...
It's unlikely the bellcrank that is worn, that's steel running in the plastic slider, so the slider would be the one with the wear, and that slider runs in the ally bracket, so it could be wear there as well. They are prone to coming loose on the bellhousing, but not to wearing in the assembly to the point where they start causing problems. I have good used items of all of it. It looks like you're going to have to take it off and have a look at what's going on.
Click to expand...

You are on the money H'p6
I should be milling timber but after your response , I had a quick look and the plastic slider is worn on one side .Giving a lot of movement along the whole lever system and my no park selection .
I may take up your offer for a part if all else fails , but I will ring around down here for a local bit first . May be a tad quicker than shipping one out .
Good sloothing on your part .
Is there anything you dont know about BW35 and P6 in general ?
 
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