Water leak at fuel filler grommet ?

Having just gone out and looked at mine, The wire is a round ring like a circlip which holds the grommit out against the base unit hole. After removing the filler neck, remove the wire circlip which is in the bottom internal convolution which will then allow you to pull out the grommit. It may mean doing handstands in the boot. Don't worry about glueing the hose connections to the filler tubes, I never did and never had any leaks, providing the hose clamps are tight enough.

Colin
 
thanks! So the wire is inside the grommit, pushing outwards, and the upper end of the grommit seals on the filler neck near the top..? Wont this let water that comes off the top of the filler flap dribble down the grommit and sit between the base unit and the grommit? If so, any errors in fitting the wire or the grommit will produce leaks? I already lay down in the boot once to look up at the area and was barely able to get out on my own. Next time I will have somebody stand by ready to help me out.
 
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jp928 said:
thanks! So the wire is inside the grommit, pushing outwards, and the upper end of the grommit seals on the filler neck near the top..? Wont this let water that comes off the top of the filler flap dribble down the grommit and sit between the base unit and the grommit? If so, any errors in fitting the wire or the grommit will produce leaks? I already lay down in the boot once to look up at the area and was barely able to get out on my own. Next time I will have somebody stand by ready to help me out.
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The area between the base unit and the rear decker panel is a "wet" area that should drain down around the sides of the boot lid.. That is why the filler grommet and the bolts that hold down the front edges of the decker panel must seal well. As you noted, the fit of the grommet into the hole in the base unit, reinforced by the wire keeps any water that enters the space between the decker panel and the base unit from leaking into the boot. The flange at the top of the grommet that is held in place by the 4 screws of the filler, stops any water from leaking down inside the grommet between the grommet and the fuel filler pipe. It is still possible for water to enter the space between the decker panel and the base unit from around the filler (by the latch area) but it will be kept to the outside of the grommet by the seal of the grommet flange to the filler cap assembly. I hope that all makes sense.
 
Got all the bits. Here is the old grommet - nice triangular tear, similar to those accidentally made by a screwdriver.
l2Wo2Rl.jpeg

Separating the filler neck from the first hose was pretty easy really.
I greased the bottom groove where the grommet grabs the body with silicon grease. Getting it into place on this groove was not fun, but got there in the end - fitted it from top. Getting the wire to seat was a bit of a hassle - I dont fit into the boot well, and getting out is a real exercise! Going to put a smear of sealant on the underside of the neck piece.
Coincidentally I also ordered a manual gearbox lever boot (cos I never expected to find a new one!), but had forgotten about it. When I opened the package I wondered where the hell that part fitted with the much smaller filler grommet....for a while, until I looked at the invoice.
 
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Well, I didnt enjoy it when I had to actually get in the boot, and as for getting out, if I have to do it much more I will need some neck muscle training. I see how it should seal now, so less worried about that issue. Unless its been done before it was actually in pretty good condition, apart from the tear. Will take a pic of the grommet showing where it attaches to the body tomorrow.
 
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Initially I thought the top flange of the rubber was under the decker panel where the screw holes are, but looking at the old grommet I see impressions of the 4 screw points on the underside, so the flange goes on the top side, which makes complete sense if we want to seal the boot from water.
pDJgZiQ.jpeg

Pic of old grommet showing the groove where it engages with the base unit. On the inside there is the groove for the wire ring to press the grommet outwards so it engages fully - rusty line. Perforated myself a couple of times trying to push the filler in, and the tank hose to engage the filler.
icix4HS.jpeg

all back together now, and water on the cap now comes down the wet gutter. Glad thats over!
 
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jp928 said:
Unstable said "A cotter pin remover should be able to get in between the pipe and the stem to loosen things off a bit for you."
Obviously 'cotter pin' is not universal.
I was brought up that this 9.5 x 42mm Cotter Pin with Nyloc Nut - each 9339506005914 | eBay
was a cotter pin, used to lock a bicycle pedal arm to its shaft. What you refer to I call a split pin. Looking this up on the web I see splits being also listed a cotter pins....
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Ah, my apologies... I've been working on US made helicopters for too long...
Cotter pin = split pin.
1713418515168.jpeg
This type of thing, you could probably make up a one-off use tool, too.
 
Getting the filler neck free of the first hose was the least of my problems - grabbed it once with variable jaw long pliers and it let go. Despite a bit of grease on the end getting it started into the hose was a bit of a pain. Only test left now is does fuel leak when pumping it in?
edit:-
Yes, when topped right off! I thought I thought I had the clips tight, but got them a bit tighter, which seems to be OK. Will still check next fill up.
 
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