Want to remove discs, but half shafts not co-operating

B

billoddie

Active Member
After much debate and procrastination, I decided to remove the rear calipers and take them in for a refurb.
Part of this process was to remove the discs and have them machined.
It took me 1 hour to remove the four bolts connecting the half shafts to the (one) disc.
I am not kidding, EACH bolt took every single ounce of strength to loosen it!!
My hands are bruised from from the spanner!!
Anyways, the problem is...the half-shafts don't seem to want to drop down.
The car is on blocks and has no wheels. I tried jacking the car up further...just lifted the car.
How do I get the necessary "clearance" for half shaft removal from the disc itself?
Also, the other (driver) side shaft will not rotate, which makes it nigh on impossible to get a spanner to the bolts. The left side did, but the driver side seems stuck by the pads.
Is this from the handbrake cable being stuck? (Yes it is off)
Solution?
Pics are attached to show problem
 

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Hello Brenten,

There is nothing beneath the trailing arms (lower links) is there? They must be free as the de dion tube will expand slightly when you pull on the half shaft so as to allow it to drop free of the disk. The half shaft bolts need to be torqued to 85lbs/ft, which is pretty tight. With clean bolt threads, apply a little graphite grease, will make removal easier next time.

Refit the wheel on the side that won't turn and use that as a lever. Much easier to turn the wheel than just the half shaft alone.

Ron.
 
Hi Brenten

I use a long breaker bar on the driveshaft bolts and usually have to stand on it to loosen them :shock:

You could always loosen, not remove, the bolts holding the hub into the de-dion elbow. That would give you a bit of extra clearance to move the driveshaft away from the disc. As Ron says though, pulling on the hub should give sufficient clearance without having to loosen anything else and having the wheel fitted would give you something more substantial to pull on.

Dave
 
Ok...will try those suggestions.
The lower links are free from obstruction. I did read on the relevant thread here about the de dion expanding...but that didn't happen.
Will give it some encouragement with a little wheel pull.
I think the bolts must have been torqued to 185 lb's!!!!
Thanks guys :)
 
With the hub elbows hanging down it will tend to compress the de-dion.
Put an axle stand under them and lower down gently that will make the de-dion open up just enough to lift the drive shafts up and back to remove them.
Not long done the pads on mine.you will find that its best to use a socket and wrench on the nuts rather than a spanner,there is a sweet spot where you can get to them easy when the wheel is turned.
BTW??
Its not in park is it?? That will stop it turning!
 
pilkie said:
Its not in park is it?? That will stop it turning!
Click to expand...


Being in Park won't stop the driveshafts turning. (It will only stop them both turning the same way at the same time, or one turning if the other one is locked)
 
I think I am up to the option of stands under the tube and lowering it... :(
It was in PARK, but it made no difference when I put it into neutral.
Thanks for all the feedback...gee there is alot to do before I even drive the thing.
Hate to be doing a full resto instead of just a tidy up. :)
 
Ok...getting a little bit rattled here.
Today, I obtained a right proper trolley jack, and hoisted the car up from the rear jacking point.
Placed tyres and timber under the side end bits of the de-dion/ suspension assembly...and slowly lowered it down.
Nothing....car just sits up about 3 inches higher than the original blocks it was on. Spring didn't compress...neither did the shockies...tube stayed the same :? :shock: :x
Didn't have camera with me today, but will take pics tomorrow.
Got no idea at this point.
Anyone want to take a guess?
Anyone?
 
After re- reading some suggestions, I think I might try slackening the hub attaching bolts a little and try to get some clearance that way...
 
Unless you're supporting the weight of the car under the de dion elbows or the rear ends of the lower arms I can't see any reason, other than a seized de dion tube, that you would need to do that. If the springs don't compress with the weight on the car then the shock absorbers are seized, but that won't stop the de dion sliding either.
 
Mmmm. I think I go with Harvey here. Start by releasing the top mounting of both rear dampers from inside the car. Then see what happens.

Chris
 
harveyp6 said:
Unless you're supporting the weight of the car under the de dion elbows or the rear ends of the lower arms
Click to expand...
I am! :)
Tyres/timber are directly under the rear ends of the lower arms.
Is my thinking cockamaimy here? :shock:
It seemed this point was ideal to be the weight bearing point...strongest, and most likely to compress everything down nicely.
Do things work in a way back here that I am not seeing?
 
The rear ends of the lower arms need to move outwards to allow the de dion to slide and so give room for the driveshafts to clear the discs. You will need less movement if you move the driveshafts upwards to do this rather than moving them downwards. If you're supporting the car there then it's not going to happen, well not easily anyway.
 
Hello Brenten,

The gaitor on your de dion tube is missing isn't it? Has a flap of rubber held with cable ties if I recall correctly. From what is happening, sounds like it has seized hence no movement where there should be movement.

Ron.
 
harveyp6 said:
The rear ends of the lower arms need to move outwards to allow the de dion to slide and so give room for the driveshafts to clear the discs. You will need less movement if you move the driveshafts upwards to do this rather than moving them downwards. If you're supporting the car there then it's not going to happen, well not easily anyway.
Click to expand...
Mmmm, I can see what you mean.
Will have another head scratch with it today.
SydneyRoverP6B said:
sounds like it has seized hence no movement where there should be movement.
Click to expand...
Yes, that is a possibility Ron. I had considered it, but when i inspected the sliding joint, it had a nice coating of grease, as well as the metal itself being clean and shiny. My assumption was thus that it remained functionally operative...maybe an erroneous assumption. Anyway, have a bigger picture in terms of possibilities.
I can certainly see how this entire rear unit would have been a head scratcher when it first came out.

I'm sure you have probably seen it...in this British pathe clip of the P6 being manufactured, it can be seen how the entire rear assembly is lowered onto the upside down car body....be nice to have that sort of access!! :D
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DYDD3nzezOY
 
Had success today...thankfully. :)
Jacked up the vehicle, and repositioned the tyre/timber so as not to foul the lower links.
Lowered the car down.
Worse...half shafts don't even budge!
OK, at least I know to go the other way now.
Rejack the car up...get it quite high.
Chock the body to safely hold it...yes the shafts move, but only the same as originally.
OK...put a wheel on the RHS and try to pull the tube.
Nothing seems to be happening. Suddenly, I notice the "rubber wrap" at the sliding joint wrinkling slightly.
I keep at it, and pretty soon, the whole thing is sliding beautifully...half shaft just needs a little touch and down it drops!! Yay :D
Now for the other side.
Thanks for all your help on this one guys. Was good to have a win.
Brenten
 
:D Brilliant!

Glad to hear you've had some success. Hope the rest of the job goes well with no further hold-ups

Dave
 
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