Steering Idler damper leaking. - Options?

R

richarduk

Guest
My steering is a bit out, front tyres are wearing a little quicker on the inside. Also the steering has got a little heavier, always been a bit on the heavy side. So after checking it all other I found a little movement in the idler and that is also leaking quite a lot. What are my options? A recon one is £110+ Can I get a repair kit and do it my self?

Thanks,
Richard e Collins.
 
If it is leaking it needs changed. I have in the past used Good Second hand and marched on for years.

The manual does recommend you do this yourself. I think the suppliers have them recondition I think JR wadhams do them but also Ian at rover classics had some advertised.

It is easy to change once you get the rusty split pins out.

Colin
 
I've got a couple kicking about in the garage somewhere,(if ican remember where i put'em) ???
So if you're down this way you can sample the missus tea :D
 
The steering idler in my car was also worn when i bought it. Along with worn bushes it made for a very interesting handling, especially on anything except glass smooth roads.
I fitted a recon idler from Ian last autumn, and everything improved. Well worth doing it.
All the difficulty in changing it, is getting in there a decent ball joint splitter. I was lucky because in my case the spring and upper arm were out too.
Just keep in mind that after replacement you should adjust the lock stops.

Demetris
 
I agree wholeheartedly with the above. You are unlikely to be able to overhaul it yourself as it is likely to need a new brass sleeve inserted with heat etc and then reaming to size.

While you are about it have a good read of the manual on adjusting the play in the steering box. Well worth doing at the same time! Then make sure you get the tracking set by someone with a decent laser optical rig. For the finishing touch after all this is done take your steering wheel off and centre it on the splines so everythings pointing in the right direction!

You are likely to be astonished at how much difference this all makes.

Chris



Edited By chrisyork on 1207898665
 
hermione149 said:
I've got a couple kicking about in the garage somewhere,(if ican remember where i put'em) ???
So if you're down this way you can sample the missus tea :D
Click to expand...
Thanks Kev, I think I'll take you up on that. I can always get a recon one later in the year when I have some spare cash. Don't know if its easy to see if a second hand one is good without fitting it. If you can't find them or they are not usable i'll just have to bite the bullet and pays the money for a recon one. ;)

I'll be down your way next week, I think. Not sure need to check, on holiday at the moment painting the house. :(

:)
 
It is easy enough to check a good idler.

hold it and try and turn (operate) the arm you should feel a fair bit of resistance as you do so. if it just moves then it is shot. You will be able to tell the diff. I was shocked when I took off my own idler.

Colin
 
Just seen this post - doing a pre-MoT check, I notice that there is dampness underneath the steering idler/relay, so assume that this is leaking.

With the car lifts clear of the ground at the front - turning the wheels, there is "kick-back" going from lock-to-lock (all my cars seem to have done this) but on the passenger side, the motion feels rough - would a worn idler produce this effect?

The workshop manual is quite specific on faults - it must be changed and no overhaul or maintenance procedures are detailed. I was wondering if the top screw fitting were to be undone - would this allow access to top up oil? On my early car (1965) there are also four cross-headed set screws that look like they hold on the cover, I have been warned by the workshop manual not to touch anything - has anyone done this?

My tyres have worn on the outside edge of the NSF and on the inside edge of the OSF (now swopped over) but I think the wear is too far gone for these to be accepted for the MoT and I will replace this shorlty - but any comments on the wear patten, gratefully received.

I have just fitted new front shock absorbers with new bushes, the old were "advise" on last year's MoT, so had these ready to install - the steering seems to be more wandering than before - probably the old was worn sufficiently, that the car just drifted along, now things are taughter - steering defects have become more noticeable!

Fortunately, I have a spare steering idler (and also a new steering box - I adjusted this, but still quite a lot of free-play on the steering rim - about 2" - 3"), I also have a full set of steering joints, so probably worthwhile changing the lost over and I can enjoy the benefit of the spares that I have collected!

Be interested to read comments on the wear, thanks.

Gary
 
Mine was a lot better after changing, recentred the steering wheel and gave much better feel to the road, was getting a little vague just as if the steering box needed adjustment, which it didn't.
You can check out my blog and the part where I change the damper...
http://www.practicalclassics.co.uk/forum....tart=20
At the bottom of the 3rd page.



Edited By webmaster on 1213189519
 
Thanks Richard, I am intending to do the swop-over on Saturday - not much room to split the inner ball joint.

It occurs to me that if the link rod were to be completely unscrewed it would save the need to split the joint on the car - I am going to try this! It has right & left hand threads, so turning the rod will unsrew itself completely, so should save considerable effort.

Re-assembly should not be any different and leaving the lock nuts in position will give a starting point to re-set the toe-in.

I have new track rod ends, so hopefully will be able to undertake the changerover without too much hassle.

I will let the Forum know the outcome, thanks again Richard for your response.

Gary
 
I changed the idler over this weekend - rather than splitting the track rod ends, I simply unscrewed the rod from the ends and then removed the idler having split the steering side rods.

It was very easy to do!

I then did the steering box (I had a new old stock) and the existing steering box was very worn!

Steering is much more dorect and positive, not had the full benefit yet, as I need to re-set the tracking, so I am hoping that this will make a big difference!

I had all new track rod ends and steering side rods, so with the new steering box, it should be pretty much as it left the factory!

Mine is an early, 1965 car, and is in daily use so I am looking forward to having it all properly set up.

Gary
 
That's cool, nice one :)

I've done another little job on my steering that has helped. When I had to steer at parking speeds it would creek and the steering wheel seemed to move a bit. After a little investigation I found the two bolts that hold the steering column at the front of the dash were very loose! Steering even better now! :)
 
Can anyone tell me what viscosity should the oil be for the steering idler/damper? Also, at what level should it be? There is no reference to this in the manual, not even in the lubrication list.

By the way, it is a good idea to check that the locknuts securing the damper to bracket are tight; mine weren't and this resulted in a broken housing which I have just had welded up.

Can anyone help? Regards from Aus.
 
Re. balljoint boots

I heard that some of you English chaps were having trouble locating rubber boots. Suggest you try

"Scott's Old Auto Rubber" in Melbourne. ( that's in Australia)

Regards, Harry .>>>>>>>>>>>>
 
Harry said:
Can anyone tell me what viscosity should the oil be for the steering idler/damper? Also, at what level should it be? There is no reference to this in the manual, not even in the lubrication list.

By the way, it is a good idea to check that the locknuts securing the damper to bracket are tight; mine weren't and this resulted in a broken housing which I have just had welded up.

Can anyone help? Regards from Aus.
Click to expand...
I believe these are non service items, that is once they leak you change them. If they don't leak then the oil level is good. ???
 
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