Replacement/repair panels - Rear suspension

Jules65

Member
Is is possible to buy pre formed repair panels for the boot where the Top link assembly from the de dion tube joins the inner wing/boot? If so where from?

I ask as the nearside bolt on mine is only holding on by the thinest piece of metal as the rest has rotted away around it. Before I begin fabrication I thought I had better enquire if one is available to purchase first.

If I do have to fabricate one what thickness of metal would be best?

Any advice would be gratefully appreciated, Cheers

Jules65
 
I think wadhams do repair panels for this area but they aren't to difficult to make up. I used 1mm steel as this is the same gauge as the original metal. First thing to do is cut away the rotten boot side. It's best to cut a neat square hole and be generous. You can then use a hacksaw or grinder to remove the rest of the cup portion so that only the tube is left.

Start replacing the metal work my making up the cup portion first. I used a stout washer and piece of tube on one side but fabricated the tube from a strip of metal on the other just to try a different approach (it was better using a strip but use 18gauge/1.2mm). They can be welded together on the bench and the bolt used to hold the new cup in place on the car. You can then make up the boot side around the cup. Unfortunately the nearside is more difficult as it was pressing to clear the exhaust? I found it easiest to make a flat piece and weld all the straight portions before trimming and beating the metal into the pressing before welding.

Have a look here for a picture:http://www.geocities.com/bblongman/Wheelarch.htm

it'll at least give you an idea about where to cut. Before I did it the chap who does the welding at JP restorations showed me one that he'd cut away and described the process which was v.helpful
 
hi jules
i used wadhams repair panels (for the boot wall)last year and i have to say they are 1st class.
they have all of the ribs and ridges of the original panel and for the cost of them it isnt worth the bother of making them.
happy welding
nick
 
Cheers for the help chaps.

Must say 'BB' the welding on your web site is impressive but my fear of not aligning the hole correctly and thus possibly throwing the rear geometry out is sending me down the route of purchasing a repair panel from 'Wadhams' (which at £15 +vat does not seem expensive). :)

Going to try and change the front 'Diff' mount today to see if it stops the banging. Fingers crossed it goes smoothly. Will let you know the outcome. ???
 
Well I have changed the mount. I am some what concerned though as I replaced the cup/spacer washers in the exact order as they were removed but the top nut has only just gone on where as before there was some 10-15mm thread visible. Are there 2 types of rubber mount?

The good news though is the noise appears to have subsided and the de dion tube is no longer visibly vibrating. :D
 
There are two types of rear mounting arrangement but I'm not sure what the other one looks like as both mine have been later cars (72 on). I don't think the exact arrangement is critical but i'd ensure that the nylock protion of the nut has a purchase on the thread. Pleased to here you've solved your prob.

Wouldn't worry about the boot side repairs as regards alignment of the hole. Once your underway you'll see it's not possible to get it wrong unless the assembly is very badly rotten or distorted. I'd say £15 isn't to bad for the repair panel but it only take about 30mins to make. It's the trimming for a neat join that takes the time and you'll have too do that either way.
 
Damn and blast, the noise has returned!!!

The de dion tube constantly vibrates as the car is bounced/rocked and the noise is transfered through the drive shafts and all suspension. There is a heavy knock/thud of metal when bumps/holes are encountered and this is of great concern. All the bushes appear okay and the dampers have new nuts on indicating they were recently replaced/repaired! Has anyone experienced a similar problem or can offer advice. I fear the only road left is a full rear suspension strip down and replacement of all bushes/mounts plus new dampers.

I feel that the dampers are the problem as if they are sticking this would cause a problem similar to what I am experiencing (the springs look OK and I stuck my hand up the inside today whilst changing the front 'diff' mount).

Jules65 :(
 
Meant front mount not rear mount in my last post obviously! Seems strange that it went away and has now returned. If it occurs when car is rocked/bounced while stationary then maybe unrelated to diff mount. If you suspect the shocks you can remove them easily enough and check their operation.

Jack the rear wheel clear of the ground, remove and support the car where the rear trailing arms join the elbows. This will leave the spring compressed and the shock can be removed by unbolting inside the car and underneath by removing four bolts that hold the shock mounting plates. Although it probably won't be the root of your problem you should check that the nylon bushes that locate the shock spindles in the mounting holes are present. They are normally lost and the spindle can fret in the hole and will be noisy in operation.

Must say from the syptoms you describe it does sound like the shocks are partially siezed so it's worth checking.
 
Hi to you all once again,

Prior to making the purchase of all the rubber bushes on the rear suspension/diff, does anyone know of a firm that sells a 'complete kit'? I am considering using 'J R Wadhams' but the cost of all 15 (I think thats right as I would hope new dampers come with the bushes attached) could work out quite High. I feel sure some one has mentioned in the past that such parts are still available from the dealer and are quite reasonable, but I have not rung them yet (for fear of being laughed at).

Additionally is it best to stick with 'polymers' or go down the route of 'Polyurethane?

Jules65
 
Ray Weekly does the superflex poly bushes. They are cheaper and easier to install. They'll last longer as well and in my opinion there is enough compliance in them not to seriously affect the quality of the ride in terms of noise transmission.

By the way I doubt you'll need to replace all 15. I've just done my rear end and found that bushes that were hidden from the element were in very good condition. Once you've got them off you'll have enough time between inspecting them and preparing them for the new bushes to order the required parts. Course theres nothing wrong with doing the whole lot if your that way inclined!
 
Thought you might be interested in this as antoher possibility for your cronky rear susp. I spoke to someone this morning who remembers working on the cars and says that he would occasionally fhave to deal with one that creaked and groaned and the back. It would quite often turn out to be a partially siezed de-dion tube and once dismantled he would find that water had got into the sliding assembly and rust had built up on the bearing surface. Easy to rejuvinate by removing the rust, replacein the seals. Or so I was told! Might be worth investigating during the suspension strip.
 
Hi Chaps,

Have purchased all the bushes and a replacement set of original dampers from wadhams so work will hopefully soon commence (the cost was a wacking great £320). However the upsetting thing is I recently passed over a small roundabout on the brough of a small hill which I hit at speed so throwing the rear of the car to the left and landed at/under a heavy load. Since this the rear of the car has been quiet (I still do not trust it though)!

I will update this thread when all the work has finished.

Jules 65
 
Hi Jules,

If you have spent all that money on bushes then I would seriously recommend at least a thorough inpection whilst you are doing the bushes.

I was shocked at the condition of my De Dion elbow. one had broken at the trailing arm but looked as if it could have went at any time on a few other places. If i get another p6 it will be the first thing I check.

If anyone wants to see a picture of a failed elbow then email me.

Arthuy
 
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