6Bcygnet
Member
My alternator has died. I have been offered a Lucas alternator 12/10 NB Elektrik. This fits physically.
My original alternator worked through a Lucas type 11 AC control box. The new alternator has an internal control.
Now the tricky bit. Wiring! The B+ output (brown-white) to the ammeter is fine, as is the AL connection (brown-yellow) for the warning light.
I assume that the alternator needs an initial excitation current, or does it?
On the new alternator there is a large pair of spade connectors (common bond) and another smaller connector which I was told was for the tachometer which I don't think I need.
Originally there were two leads from the alternator to the control box. One black purple - Alt. field pos. to Control box pos. And one brown green lead from the Alt. field neg. to Control box neg.
If the common spade connectors on the new Alt. are positive, then if I remove the control box and join the spade connectors via the brown purple lead to the brown blue lead exiting the control box, I will have connected the ignition switch to the spade connectors.
I will then have a positive lead from the alternator to the ignition switch. This will give a 12 volt feed to the alternator when I turn on the ignition. The other brown green lead of course will be removed.
Anyone any views before I commit a foolishness?
Frank H.
My original alternator worked through a Lucas type 11 AC control box. The new alternator has an internal control.
Now the tricky bit. Wiring! The B+ output (brown-white) to the ammeter is fine, as is the AL connection (brown-yellow) for the warning light.
I assume that the alternator needs an initial excitation current, or does it?
On the new alternator there is a large pair of spade connectors (common bond) and another smaller connector which I was told was for the tachometer which I don't think I need.
Originally there were two leads from the alternator to the control box. One black purple - Alt. field pos. to Control box pos. And one brown green lead from the Alt. field neg. to Control box neg.
If the common spade connectors on the new Alt. are positive, then if I remove the control box and join the spade connectors via the brown purple lead to the brown blue lead exiting the control box, I will have connected the ignition switch to the spade connectors.
I will then have a positive lead from the alternator to the ignition switch. This will give a 12 volt feed to the alternator when I turn on the ignition. The other brown green lead of course will be removed.
Anyone any views before I commit a foolishness?
Frank H.