Rebuilding V8 engine - cleaning advise. - How to clean waterways.

Barten

Active Member
Hello fellow members!
I am in the very long process of rebuilding a 1972 3500s. The engine has been out of the car since 1992, and have not seen antifreeze/corrosion inhibitor since that. Even if the engine ran well 12 years ago, I want to tear it apart to check the condition, and do some work on the heads, change cam etc, hoping to release some extra horsepower.
Has anyone experienced how to best clean the block and heads?
Acid dipping is probably the way to go, but as I plan to do this at home, what kind of acid should I use, and what concentration? Maybe there are other effective cleaners available?
I hope someone that has the knowledge can answer me.
 
When I rebuilt my engine a few year ago they cleaned the block and heads what was effectively a huge dish washer! I've also cleaned aluminuim castings at home by boiling in normal washing detergent and scrubbing. Not much good for something as big as engine block I know! It will also only get rid of the grease and any heavy corrosion of the aluminuim will have to removed mechanically. There are some products (one called alu-brite?) which will chemically remove the corrosion but you have to dip the castings in a tank of it so again you'll need a lot. I think these kind of products are phosphoric acid based.

Your best bet would be to ring round the local engine reconditioners and ask them. They usually have facilites for cleaning the castings although I would avoid any form of bead blasting. I've found if your having any other work done they will normally clean up the block or heads for very little charge if not free.


Bennet
 
I have found that there's nothing like starting with a nice clean block if you're rebuilding .Bring that empty block down to the local machine shop and have them clean it in their tank.You will be starting with a clean engine, inside and out.This is especially good for those hidden passages that you cannot see.
They can also do a much better job at cleaning your heads and pistons.
As you know, cleanliness is next to...............well, impossible.
Dick West
 
Thank you guys!
I guess you are right about getting it cleaned professionally. They do have large hotwater washing machines for cleaning parts for muck, oil & grease. If this works for eventually corroded waterways, I'm not sure. Maybe the best bet is to buy å new block, maybe a 4,6 from RPI? Now would have been an achievement. I wonder if the SU's would be able to supply enough petrol.
 
My intention is go for a new 4.6 block, probably from RPI. I won't be using the SU's though. I've been running a weber/edelbrock setup for a couple of years now and will use this on the new engine.

The 4.6 represents pretty good value for money in my opinion as if your rebuilding a 3.5 a set of pistons/rebore/bearing/cam etc will start to nudge £1000 anyway. The 3.5 heads are compatible but it's probably best to use SD1 heads with the bigger valves.

Has anyone out there fitted a 4.6 already. I've read articles on 3.9's and a 4.6 p5 but never a P6.

I really can't wait to see what it's like!

Bennet
 
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