Pipes

K

kiltyarse

New Member
Hallo all,
Got my MoT soon (first one with a P6) and wondering what they`re like for rusting brake pipes, or to be more precise, which are the nightmare ones to change if they do fail? I`ve checked the fronts and all seems ok to me, but a bit worried about the rears and front to back as not a lot of oil fumes around there to keep the tin worm at bay!??
Drew
???
 
The one that runs to the back behind the gear box is fidley to put in place, the one that runs under the front of the engine is also a pain - I formed this into a U bend and then fed it down and up.

The back caliper has a short one which once you have lowered the back axle is easy enough to do

With single circuit brakes its not worth taking a risk - so I replace them all as soon as I got the car
 
Depending on the car, there's a good change they've already been replaced with copper by now. Get under it and have a look.
 
Worst thing I remember is getting them all into the junction box under the bonnet. If you have something comfortable to lie on & some decent ramps (along with some free time), none of them should cause too much hassle. That copper pipe is nice & pliable.
 
:D Cheers for all that. I`ve been under it, that`s how I know the fronts are okay. They`re all steel by the way. Most have the usual surface orange fuzz of corrossion, but is easily rubbed off by my hand, showing steel that has gone quite black. I`ll leave as is and give it a go.
Drew
 
just like to say please be carefull with metal brake pipes
I would give your pipes a light rub with emry paper and see if the steel comes up nice and shiny if it does and there is no pit marks in the pipe should be ok.
but the m.o.t man will check the condition anyway as part of the test.
If you have to change them use the pure copper pipe it bends easier
 
I need some brake pipes or mot status won't occur- where can I get them from please, lovely copper ones by the sounds of your comments above, many thanks.
 
Usually you just make them yourself, buy some copper tube from your local accessory shop (about £10 for a decent roll), and a flaring tool (about £30), and maybe some new end fittings (or re-use the old ones).
Alternatively I believe some of the specialists www.rover-classics.co.uk or www.jrwadhams.co.uk sell pipe sets about £60-£70 for a full set. Also if you want to replace the flexible hoses, they are about £50 for a full set.
 
evening Wheatfielder,
Try the local motor factors in staple hill,bit-z-cars,or kingswood autopart,if you can take the one you need to replace in,they can even bend it close to shape for you.get an estimate per ft beforehand though.I am going to the restoration show at stoneleigh on the 11th, if you want I could try and buy you a ready made kit from there.
PM me
DAVE
 
Well I`ve checked them all now and most of the rear pipes running to midway are covered in surface rust, parts of which go through to shiny steel with a bit of a rub. Other bits are more stubborn though so I`m expecting it to fail. Handbrake will probably fail also, as the car will move very easily in first or reverse with it fully on. I have it booked in for this Friday morning, but with the rain coming and going as it is I doubt I`ll get anything done myself before then. Just gonna bite the bullet and take it on the chin! :D Cheers for all the input peeps, will keep you posted.
Drew
 
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