Neutral Safety/Inhibitor Switch
- Thread starter karekare
- Start date
Yes it's a four wire switch, with two pairs of wires, one pair for the reverse lights, one pair for the starter circuit. The pairs are arranged opposite one another, other than on the very earliest of switches where they were paired side by side. If you have them fitted to opposite terminals, and it starts in NEUTRAL and the reverse lights work as they should then the wires are on the correct terminals and it can only be adjustment. As the start circuit uses only two wires, and the car starts in NEUTRAL, how does the switch know not to start in PARK if it starts ok in NEUTRAL? The internals of the switch are all in the same place, it can only be the detent in the box that's not moving the plunger far enough to make the circuit in PARK, which is either a switch or linkage adjustment. I've never had problems with the internal linkage. Has this all been checked with the external linkage disconnected, so you can eliminate that when setting the switch adjustment itself?
Obviously substitution still relies on getting the switch and linkage all set up correctly, but if you do go for a new switch I would avoid new repro as the quality is cr*p, if you can buy NOS genuine Lucas that should be the best bet, if not, known good secondhand.
I have got the internal linkage selector detent quadrant out of a 35 box, and as that has the notches and grooves for the inhibitor on it as well I'll look to see if the PARK and NEUTRAL positions are exactly the same, which I'm fairly sure they are, and that will prove that the switch is in the same position in both selector positions, that's providing I can find it of course....
Obviously substitution still relies on getting the switch and linkage all set up correctly, but if you do go for a new switch I would avoid new repro as the quality is cr*p, if you can buy NOS genuine Lucas that should be the best bet, if not, known good secondhand.
I have got the internal linkage selector detent quadrant out of a 35 box, and as that has the notches and grooves for the inhibitor on it as well I'll look to see if the PARK and NEUTRAL positions are exactly the same, which I'm fairly sure they are, and that will prove that the switch is in the same position in both selector positions, that's providing I can find it of course....
WarrenL
Active Member
Hi folks.
Good news to report. I'm no mechanic, but I know a thing or two about electrons, so I tested Brown Rover's old inhibitor switch yesterday. It would only make when the shaft was rammed in as tight as I could push, and in N the detent seemed to manage this, but not in P. As the switch is the type with the non-adjustable shaft, I could see that the whole situation was in danger of escalating. Farting around with the linkage would be next, and that would likely open up cans of wear-n-tear worms, and all this on a gearbox I'd like to ditch in favour of a nice ZF 4HP22 in the not-too-distant future.
So I scoured the earthquake-ravaged town for another switch, preferably genuine, and turned up a shiny NOS Lucas switch, possibly the last in the city, complete with the adjustable thread, for just $40 (less than twenty of your very sterling pounds) and delivered it to John. The difference in the action of the two switches was quite obvious, and although I won't catch up with John again until Monday, I'm hoping that by beer o'clock yesterday the problem was solved.
And that would be a relief! The least significant of the jobs on the list I gave to John was starting to turn into the biggest pain-in-the-arse!
Checking the car out yesterday, still atop the hoist, the new sump gasket looks good, sitting above a freshly straightened and painted sump. You should have seen the old gasket! Yuck! No wonder the car has an undercoating of engine oil. John mentioned there was plenty of gloop in the bottom of the sump, including some lead (!!??) but nothing to be concerned about. He prodded and poked about the bottom end while it was exposed and says the old lump is in great shape, so far as he can tell.
Other leaks (especially since I replaced the valley and rocker cover seals) are now confined to the tailcone of the transmission, and a bit dribbling out of the front end of the diff. The transmission pan seeps a bit too, but I'm not worried about that. Oddly enough, my crank seals don't appear to be leaking at all, and as far as I know, they're the ropey old rope type. Wonders will never cease!
Good news to report. I'm no mechanic, but I know a thing or two about electrons, so I tested Brown Rover's old inhibitor switch yesterday. It would only make when the shaft was rammed in as tight as I could push, and in N the detent seemed to manage this, but not in P. As the switch is the type with the non-adjustable shaft, I could see that the whole situation was in danger of escalating. Farting around with the linkage would be next, and that would likely open up cans of wear-n-tear worms, and all this on a gearbox I'd like to ditch in favour of a nice ZF 4HP22 in the not-too-distant future.
So I scoured the earthquake-ravaged town for another switch, preferably genuine, and turned up a shiny NOS Lucas switch, possibly the last in the city, complete with the adjustable thread, for just $40 (less than twenty of your very sterling pounds) and delivered it to John. The difference in the action of the two switches was quite obvious, and although I won't catch up with John again until Monday, I'm hoping that by beer o'clock yesterday the problem was solved.
And that would be a relief! The least significant of the jobs on the list I gave to John was starting to turn into the biggest pain-in-the-arse!
Checking the car out yesterday, still atop the hoist, the new sump gasket looks good, sitting above a freshly straightened and painted sump. You should have seen the old gasket! Yuck! No wonder the car has an undercoating of engine oil. John mentioned there was plenty of gloop in the bottom of the sump, including some lead (!!??) but nothing to be concerned about. He prodded and poked about the bottom end while it was exposed and says the old lump is in great shape, so far as he can tell.
Other leaks (especially since I replaced the valley and rocker cover seals) are now confined to the tailcone of the transmission, and a bit dribbling out of the front end of the diff. The transmission pan seeps a bit too, but I'm not worried about that. Oddly enough, my crank seals don't appear to be leaking at all, and as far as I know, they're the ropey old rope type. Wonders will never cease!
WarrenL
Active Member
Brown Rover is home! I'm pleased to report that the subject of this thread, the inhibitor switch, is doing its job perfectly, with the car being able to start in P for the first time in at least 15 years.
In other non-this-thread matters, the new exhaust sounds MAGNIFICENT!
In other non-this-thread matters, the new exhaust sounds MAGNIFICENT!
WarrenL
Active Member
Thanks Al, I'm indebted to you as usual.
It is very satisfying to be steadily getting all these things done on the old car. All those years I had it sitting in the garage, threatening to do something with it, and now it's all coming together. I'm really rather pleased with myself for not giving up.
I checked with the painter today and he's ready to make a start on my touch-ups next week, so that is the next big job done. And then I think my bank account will call a halt to proceedings for a while. But I still plan to push on with the PAS and ZF conversions as money allows, then there's my correct rear bumper to rechrome and fit...
It is very satisfying to be steadily getting all these things done on the old car. All those years I had it sitting in the garage, threatening to do something with it, and now it's all coming together. I'm really rather pleased with myself for not giving up.
I checked with the painter today and he's ready to make a start on my touch-ups next week, so that is the next big job done. And then I think my bank account will call a halt to proceedings for a while. But I still plan to push on with the PAS and ZF conversions as money allows, then there's my correct rear bumper to rechrome and fit...
rottenlungs
Member
Hi all.
As I mentioned on another thread, I`m about to pull the sump and replace the filter on the bw65 on my car. Do any of the kiwi connections know a source of sump gaskets and filters, preferably in the lower North Island?
Cheers
James
As I mentioned on another thread, I`m about to pull the sump and replace the filter on the bw65 on my car. Do any of the kiwi connections know a source of sump gaskets and filters, preferably in the lower North Island?
Cheers
James
Hi James, I haven't had to do a BW65 before but it shouldn't be hard to find. I've bought BW35 bits from places like Repco/Appco or BNT. If they can't help then talk to your local trans shop. If they don't have the bits, they will certainly be able to point you in the right direction.
WarrenL
Active Member
Hi James,
I ordered my sump gasket etc from Scott's Old Auto Rubber. He's in Melbourne, but once he's got your order it's only a couple of days before everything lands on your doorstep. Not only that, but he's very pleasant and helpful to deal with.
There's a lot more to Scott than just old auto rubber, and he will help you with anything that you can't find on the site.
http://www.scottsoldautorubber.com.au/
Regards,
Warren
I ordered my sump gasket etc from Scott's Old Auto Rubber. He's in Melbourne, but once he's got your order it's only a couple of days before everything lands on your doorstep. Not only that, but he's very pleasant and helpful to deal with.
There's a lot more to Scott than just old auto rubber, and he will help you with anything that you can't find on the site.
http://www.scottsoldautorubber.com.au/
Regards,
Warren
rottenlungs
Member
Thanks Kiwirover - I hadn`t thought of going to Repco or the like as I haven`t had much luck on Rover parts in the past.
Warren , yep Ive used Scotts a few times - always a pleasure but he doesn`t list a bw65 oil strainer.
i`ll check out repco for the seals..
Cheers
James
Warren , yep Ive used Scotts a few times - always a pleasure but he doesn`t list a bw65 oil strainer.
i`ll check out repco for the seals..
Cheers
James
WarrenL
Active Member
KiwiRover said:
I've just retrieved the mail, Al, and included was your parcel with those bits and pieces. I'm at a loss for words to tell you how grateful I am. But one thing I can do is rack through my pile of spare P6 bits up in the garage attic and let you know what I've got. I've given a lot away over the years, most recently a good set of HS6 carbs, but there's at least a good front bumper up there and some other odds and sods.
We're getting well off topic here, but I've started dismantling Brown Rover's doors in preparation for the painter on Monday. I'd forgotten how beastly those window winder retaining clips were to get out. Right! Back out the garage...
I have gained a few more articles since then but my computer has died so that's just the stuff that i had backed up.
DamianZ28
Active Member
Heys guys, sorry but am jumping on this thread too!, My Inhibitor Switch has its own mind, Staring from cold it'll work both in PARK & Neutral, but as soon as its hot then no go, I have to wiggle it around in either P or N & eventually it'll start.
Any body have this experience or ideas?, could be the switch is out of adjustment or the selector rods needs adjustment.
Also the gear selector itself is quite wobblely.
I'll start with disconnecting the rod to the selector fork & see if it starts then whilst hot when in P or N & then adjust the rod to suit, if no go then try adjusting the Inhibitor Switch itself...fingers crossed, I do not have a meter/light box thingy to check it though , is there another way to do it or trial & error?
Thanks Damian
Any body have this experience or ideas?, could be the switch is out of adjustment or the selector rods needs adjustment.
Also the gear selector itself is quite wobblely.
I'll start with disconnecting the rod to the selector fork & see if it starts then whilst hot when in P or N & then adjust the rod to suit, if no go then try adjusting the Inhibitor Switch itself...fingers crossed, I do not have a meter/light box thingy to check it though , is there another way to do it or trial & error?
Thanks Damian
DamianZ28 said:
Just use a normal test lamp to test it, but the initial setting up (assuming it's a 35 box) depends on which type of switch is fitted. Maladjusted or worn linkage (including the lever itself) will all have a serious effect on how well it works. You could test it when it's hot and working OK, and cold when it's not, to find out why.