Knackered Vinyl Roof with Leaky Sunroof - Help required restoring leaky vinyl roof

Hello fellow P6 Forum users
I recently moved to Berlin, Germany, where I own the only 1973 3500 Auto in (mostly*) Arctic White. It has a black vinyl roof including a sliding steel sunroof, which has been re-vinyled by a previous owner. The vinyl is cracked at the rounded corners of the sunroof aperture, and has started to bubble up away from the roof panel all around the sunroof section. The drainage pipes that I‘m told ought to run from the corners of the sunroof tray down the roof pillars berneath the stainless finishers are missing, and whenever it rains the water makes its way into the passenger compartment. The floor has thus rusted through (under the rear seat squabs and along both inner sills, not to mention the inner rear wheel arches**).The electric switch for the sunroof doesn‘t work properly any more, and on those occassions when it opens the roof panel it doesn‘t close it again, so I have to wind it closed with the little manual ratchet provided. In heavy rain the sunroof has taken to opening itself up! I haven‘t removed the headliner yet, but I fear that the roof pillars themselves may be rotted/rotting.
I‘ve been advised by one knowledgable P6 restorer to fix my leaky roof before I get started on repairing the Base Unit. Makes sense to me, I wouldn‘t put a new carpet in my house if it had a leaky roof! I‘d like to know from other experienced P6 restorers if I ought to:
a). repair my existing roof,
b). obtain, prepare (i.e: re-vinyl) and swap in a different roof panel with a similar sunroof (more expensive option, but perhaps less hassle given that I don‘t yet have a garage where I can work on the car and so will prrobably have to do it all out on the street), or
c). fit a roof panel without a sunroof and thus hopefully ‚leak-proof‘?
My aim is to get the car through the extremely strict TÜV inspection (the equivalent of an MOT) and get ‚Historical‘ (H- suffix) number plates, with which annual road Tax costs the same regardless of engine displacement. Otherwise with conventional number plates I‘ll have to pay exorbitant road tax for a 3.5litre! I‘ve been told I won‘t pass the TÜV unless I replace my front windscreen, because it is turning milky where moisture is creeping in between the sandwiched layers of glass. I need to get hold of an immaculate Sundym green front windscreen, and I suppose it would make sense to fit it at the same time as the new or renovated roof panel.
Can anybody help me locate get the green screen?
Does anybody know where to get the correct roof vinyl material (Everflex? Bison grain? What is the right stuff called?), and what I should expect to have to pay?
Furthermore how much of it do I need? Has anybody ever replaced their vinyl roof ?
I‘m after any helpful tips regarding fitting the stuff properly. Can anybody shed further light on exactly what is entailed in swapping the roof and the headlining?
I think that‘ll do for now, although doubtless I‘ll have many more questions regarding this and future new topics as my restoration project progresses. I look forward to your help. All suggestions very welcome.
* I‘m going to need a respray at some point, after all the other niggly things have been fixed, but I don‘t expect to be that far before next summer at the earliest. Paint is about the last thing on a long ‚to do‘ list.
** Once I‘ve got a nice dry passenger compartment I‘ll move on to welding/patching. If I get any helpful responses to my roof worries I‘d like to then ask you all about how/where to repair the Base Unit properly. In the meanwhile I would love to see some pictures of what the upper secttion of the inner rear wheel arch is supposed to look like! Mine are missing, rotted away completely. Perhaps somebody could provide me with photos or illustrations?
 
Hi Alasdair,

Thanks for your reply about the front bumper.

I have recently completed a thorough de-rusting and respraying of my 1974 P6V8 automatic which necessitated removing the roof panel to repair badly rusted rear roof pillars. Some bright spark had blocked the roof gutters with a million tons of sealant that prevented them draining. The water instead went up under the roof panel and rotted the inner roof pillars from the inside, as well as the floor under the rear seats.

Unless you have your heart set on having a sunroof I recommend that you forget about it and look for a standard roof panel; you really don't want a damp cabin. Sunroofs should be called rainroofs.

The roof panel is held on by about twenty eight screws concealed by the headlining. Changing the roof panel needs at least two people, preferably three, when lifting it on and off. The joint between the roof panel and edge frame needs to be well sealed with a flexible sealer. You will need a replacement headlining; this does not require great skill, but it is a ballache to fit. Label all of the little bits of trim and keeps the screws safely when removing the existing headlining. Have someone with you when installing the replacement so that you can swear at them; it makes you feel better.

My roof had two dents where a drunk had punched the roof back in 1988. I removed the vinyl when the roof panel was off the car so that the dents could be repaired at last and discovered that the the roof had been painted the correct colour prior to the vinyl being glued on. I decided to leave the vinyl off.

I may have some photos of the wheel arch area. If I find them I'll email them to you. What is your email address?

Regards,

John Larkin
 
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