headlight conversion
- Thread starter gosnell
- Start date
Dave3066
Well-Known Member
John
The standard halogen replacements are H4 60/55W for the outers and H7 for the inners, (I think :roll: back me up here guys 8) ) but standard H7s are only rated at 55W so I'd stick with the 75W inners as they should be more than adequate. That said, if the wiring will take it you can push the wattage up to whatever the legal requirements will allow. The main problem tends to be the light performance on dip but 55W halogen should give you a much improved dip beam. One of the classic car mags did a recent review of halogen bulbs. Can't remember which one though, either Practical Classics or Classics Monthly. Check eithers website and see if the review is on there.
Cheers
Dave
The standard halogen replacements are H4 60/55W for the outers and H7 for the inners, (I think :roll: back me up here guys 8) ) but standard H7s are only rated at 55W so I'd stick with the 75W inners as they should be more than adequate. That said, if the wiring will take it you can push the wattage up to whatever the legal requirements will allow. The main problem tends to be the light performance on dip but 55W halogen should give you a much improved dip beam. One of the classic car mags did a recent review of halogen bulbs. Can't remember which one though, either Practical Classics or Classics Monthly. Check eithers website and see if the review is on there.
Cheers
Dave
josephp6man
New Member
hi,
inners are H1
ian
inners are H1
ian
Indeed. The (legal) wattage of the outer H4 bulbs is fixed at 60/55, but you can make good progress there with some of the enhanced performance versions. I've read the Osram ones get good reports. If you are prepared to change bulbs before and after an MoT then you could certainly get 100W H1 inners and perhaps much increased for the H4 outers. But beware of the chav market - they like people to think they have HID bulbs - so some of these uprated ones are angled more at giving a ghastly blue white colour!
If going for increased wattage then beware your fusebox. You're OK if you have an S1 or early S2 with the fuse box under the bonnet. Later S2's with the fuse box in the passenger glove box have a very well earned reputation for melting and self igniting the fuse box even with standard wattage. Have a search elesewhere for assessment of these problems. At the minimum you should check you have the correct length imperial fuses - metric fuses fit, but are just slightly shorter meaning there is insufficient registration with the fuse holders. That's enough to provoke a melt down. Highly desirable is an exercise in re-crimping the terminations or replacing the box complete with a modern equivalent. both are very awkward to achieve. So a relay system is essential with this type of fuse box. Note that it is not the wiring you are trying to protect but the fuse box, so there is no problem where you site the relays.
Chris
If going for increased wattage then beware your fusebox. You're OK if you have an S1 or early S2 with the fuse box under the bonnet. Later S2's with the fuse box in the passenger glove box have a very well earned reputation for melting and self igniting the fuse box even with standard wattage. Have a search elesewhere for assessment of these problems. At the minimum you should check you have the correct length imperial fuses - metric fuses fit, but are just slightly shorter meaning there is insufficient registration with the fuse holders. That's enough to provoke a melt down. Highly desirable is an exercise in re-crimping the terminations or replacing the box complete with a modern equivalent. both are very awkward to achieve. So a relay system is essential with this type of fuse box. Note that it is not the wiring you are trying to protect but the fuse box, so there is no problem where you site the relays.
Chris
Dave3066
Well-Known Member
chrisyork said:
rockdemon said:
H4 or H1?
H1s have a single blade connector for the supply, and earth through the base. They are also single beam. H4s have 3 blade connectors and are main/dip beams. My outer sealed beams have 3 connections so H1 wouldn't fit. I'm confused now :?
Clarification anyone? :?
Dave