Engine Timing

P

philt1234

New Member
Hello again,

What is the best set up for the timing on the engine. I have never (personally) started this engine, so I want the best set up to ensure a first time start. I have already gone down the leaded unleaded avenue, and there are as many opinions as there are fuel brands. I intend to use unleaded, rightly or wrongly, and if I need new valves/sets then so be it. The car will only be used infrequently, so hopefully I willl get away with it.

Thanks in anticipation

Phil
 
This is from memory so I stand to be corrected.
For a 10.5:1 compression ratio engine the standard timing is 6 degrees BTDC running on 100 octane. My 3500S runs happily on unleaded at 0 deg BTDC. So the timing will depend on what octane petrol you are using. I'm going to use superunleaded or Optimax and adjust the timing accordingly. I'll try 4 deg BTDC first and experiment. I may also have a play with tetraboost which I'm using in my Morris 1000. This is genuine tetraethyl lead and give a good octane boost. The Morris needs the wear protection of lead but the V8 doesn't. It is one way of boosting the octane level if you have to fill up with ordinary unleaded with the timing set for something meatier. However, it is expensive and nasty stuff to handle so it isn't for everyone.
Unless you want maximum power (I do), then run on ordinary unleaded with the timing at 0 degrees.
Hope this helps. Let us know how you get on.
Nick
 
Phil,
Nick is right. From Oct. 1973 all V8 engines are slightly lower comp. ratio for use with 4 star and static timing remains at 6 degrees b.t.d.c. so start with static timing of 6 degrees for later models and t.d.c. for early models on 97/98 octane fuels.
If you up the octane to 100 using TetraBOOST or real leaded fuel then you can use 6 degrees on the early models.
Regards, John.
 
Hi guys

Am presently rebuilding the engine. Hope to be finished around the weekend. Have a number of other bits & pieces to get together. Am waiting on my head gasket set coming. Have ordered new core plugs & drain taps as well (can't get the old taps out just yet!!). Got a new clutch & thrust bearing today. Need a new coil (John, any ideas of the type??)

Will probably need more advice as the day comes to start it.

Thanks again, lads!!

Phil
 
Phil,
I have two numbers listed in my database for a coil for a series 2 3500 - Lucas BA.16.C6 and/or Lucas DLB 102 although the latter number was provided i.e. not checked by me.
Someone may offer a newer reference number hopefully.
Regards, John.
 
Hi again guys

I'm probably becoming a bit of a nuisance( for want of the expletive version!!), but I'm a bit new to all this!!
I'm obviously overhauling a P6 engine at the moment. Anyone had trouble with the drain taps. I don't want to break them but neither will move.
Also, when I go to start it(hopefully next weekend). Does the P6 suffer from the same oil pump drain back problems I have read of on the SD1. Do I have to prime the pump. Is the best way to remove the dizzy. I don't know how long since this engine has been run.
Any other advice is most welcome

Regards

Phil ???
 
Phil,
regarding the oil pump - Yes, you will have to prime it by packing it with petroleum jelly (Vasalene) a fiddley job but essential.
Regards, John.
 
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