Just got around to working on the carbs again, fitted new none popet valve butterflies, spindles and seals also fitted new intake manifold gasket. Got to refit the sump before I can run her up..
Fingers crossed
Hi Harvey, inthe Haynes manual it says to fit the butterfly and leave the screws slightly loose and operate the butterfly several times and then tighten the screws.
On the HIF44s i have the butterfly retains the shaft, there is no fastening on the opposite end to the opperating leaver so I let...
I was uesing my phone to try and access it ...going to pinch the missus lap top and have another go when I can get it to run properly .....at the moment the l/hand carb is pulling loads of air with the stop backed right off
PS. I have read that the non popet butterflies as used on MGC and MGA Twin cam which were fitted with 1,3/4 SU's will fit the HIF44.
I intend to purchase a pair and to eliminate the popet valve as a potential problem. Cheers George
Hi, i removed the carb and have checked the shaft and seals I cannot blow air into the carb past them. I centralized the butterfly when refitting however when fully closed if I hold the carb with the butterfly horizontal looking in at it from the engine side and spray WD40 around the edge it...
There was no play in the butterfly spindles and I fitted the latest spec seals with the open side looking out (found a diagram that showed them fitted the other way around for turbo application's). Used a dab of grease when fitting all seals.
I've not removed the butterflies and the fast idle screws are well clear of the choke cams.
The butterflies are fitted with the poppet valves. I've checked the one one the carb I'm having problems with, manually operated it and rotated it, given it a spray of wd40 and as far as I can tell its...
I've just swopped to a set of Hif44s which were cleaned up, float hights, jet tube hights and throttle stops set as per lots of reasearch. The carbs were treated to all new seals and o'rings supplied in a genuine su kit.
My problem trying to set a reasonable tick over prior to checking the...
Couldn't get mintylamb to work along with many others but got directed to www.teglerizer.com this is spot on you can put the needle code in and it gives you 16 diameters over the length of the needle
Up date, i have acquired a jag 65 filler tube and dip stick, after comparing to the 66 filler tube and stick this is what ive found.
Both tubes are identical,
Both dip sticks are the same overall length,
The high and low cold levels are the same on both sticks
The hot low on the 65 stick is the...
Cheers for the contacts I've not tried those.
I was referring to your 2011 post for guidance, as on the jag 66 stick min hot is quie a bit higher than max cold, I assume due to the greater amount of oil to expand in the 66 box, was not suggesting anything was wrong with it. Cheers George
I always thought that a stall test gave an indication of under / over fill and as i have no real datum for hot I was thinking of trying when up to temp.
Ideally i would fit the correct filler tube and stick but sadley no longer available new and second hand are rarely available.
Did i read in...
Hi Harvey, today i removed the sump on the jag bok and the spacer you mention is 20mm thick. If the filler tube and dip stick were in the jag box, as near as i can tell the cold low mark is level with the sump pan joint and the cold max 10mm above.
When fitted to the rover box the tip of the dip...
I've checked the entry point on both gearboxes and the 66 jag is about 15mm lower than the rover but I don't have the clearance to fit the jag sump.
I'm assuming I'm over filling the box. The difference between max and min when cold is about 10mm . Im going to fill to minimum when cold, see how...
Yes every day is even at 60 LOL, The end is yellow so its a 66 and I've gone back to the jag gearbox I took it from which definitely has a deeper sump.
If the entry point of the filler tube in the jag and rover sumps relative to the the bottom of the box where they bolt on is the same then it...
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