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depedning on distributor fitted, Range Rover parts shold fit. I have halfords distributor cap (RR - blue cap) fitted and although it is a bit different to P6 (black cap) it runs fine.

can you remove the opereating lever and if doing so, will the pumnp leak, if yes and no, then do that and fit it back on. weights a bit more than a steel or aluminium plate but won't sap any power.

BA 82291 looks very much like a Ford engine number. rover v8 followed scheme of 2 numbers, 1 letter then more numbers. none of the above computes. The engine number and compression ratio are stamped on the left side of the block in between the centre two spark plugs , near the dipstick.On...

the driven oil pump gears have different ends (p6 has slot, sd1 has a flat). Also the p6 gear is shallower but you used to be able to buy a spacer that fits onto the oil pump to allow fitting of SD1 deeper gears with P6 timing cover. I have sd1 cover with p6 distributor. This needs the...

I have one fitted. (it p6 engine HIf6 in land rover with facet interrupter pump). No idea why if was fitted and don't know if it will run without it. from memory the SU want about 3 psi but the pump runs at a bit more than that (6 - 9 psi sporings to mind). Are you not experiencing vapour...

hmmmm, could it be the buik engine? I seem to recall a story where Rover ran short at one point and used these to keep production going. Not sure how you would recognise them? (buik were cast iron block I believe). my friend's brother had a buik engine.

timing marks don't move, it is only the pointer that can. the timing can be altered just by moving the ignition leads by 1 cylinder on the distributor cap.

from what people say, doing it when it is really cold is the best way. put wd40 or even better specail penetrating oil overnight. sometimes trying to do them up a tiny bit cracks the seal, not sure I'd do that for risk of stripping the threads. a s mentioned, a longer lever allows you to put...

if you can remove the bottom plate, then thatwould be simplest and the use petroleum jelly (cheaper version of vaeline you ccan buy from Boots). then/or make up a tool like this; bits of steel tube welded onto a m8 bolts, fit into a cordless drill and give it a whizz. you are welcome to borrow...

I did this conversion by fitting the later sd1 cover since the kit was no longer avaialble. With SD1, you need to modify the end of the disributor, quite easy to do but once done, there is no return.

Anyone haa a P6 timing cover disintergrate due to cavitation from the water pump? At high rpm, the impellor creates small bubbles that wear away the surface of the alloy until it becomes so thin it crack/leaks; it looks like its like highly polished corrosion. Below is picture of a Range...

haynes manaul :) you need to find TDC on the compresion stroke first of all; unless the timing gears have been messed about with, then you can rely on the timing pointer - you should see a metal pointer o nthe timing case at about 11 o'clok position near the crank pulley - this will have timing...

20/50 oil; even the cheap brans will be fine but change them at 3,000 (more frequent). filter from late v8 (rang rover/sd1) are 3/4 UNF, P6 filter thread is 13/16 UNF (you sometimes see the thread stamped on the filter so a shufty in halfords opening up boxes will sort you out. don't drain...

to avoid vapour lock, it helps to have a circulating system. i.e. fuel line from last carb goes back to the fuel tank. I can't really see how fitting an electric pump would fix it as you are pumping fuel against a gas (vaporised fuel) that cannot go anywhere and it shouldn't make a difference...

use a steel rule and feeler guages to check for head distortion - if it is bad, then you will see it and save some cash! you know about the 3rd row of 4 bolts being tightenend to a much lower torque? this came about on later engines, SD1, Rand Rover etc as it was found that they would apply...

look at the haynes manuals - they show the routing for the leads - the later books, SD1 fixes some erros in earlier lay out. the leas should not be parallel if possible and when they cross, it is a t right angles to prevent misfiring. you can get the v.a. unit from wadhams; the lugs may be...

apparently you are not supoposed to use them on cast iron - damages them but ok on mild or stainless steel i.e. what tubular mannies are made of. oh, and also they can trap moisture so help to rot away mild steel manifold.....

from when I had my MGB there was lot's of discussion about this. apparently the original filters are best but they clog up quickly so in the long term K*N provide better flow. also K&N are cleanable so saving in £££ there.

ooh dear ..... can you use a hacksaw balde to cut a new slot? try heating the aloy carb a bit - the different expasnion rates may release the screw; else you would need to cut the head off and deal with the remainder of the screw; that would entail reming the car off the manifold, drilling the...

right; to put you out of your misery, info. I have is the distributor and points changed; all other ignition parts are the same.

I am looking at JR Wadhams P6 ignition spares and see two sets of parts, one for pre '72, one for after. Why? What happened in 1972? Can anyone date my engine, 48112319D. But more to the point, which distributor cap should I fit - I have RR (blue) since that is what Halfords sell but I know...

I may have asked this before although the search has not picked it up. After fitting my new SD1 heads and cam, I fitted a Tim vacuum guage to the manifold - there are 2 bosses one used for brake servo, other was blocked off. Anyway, I am seeing too low a vacuum i.e. there is less vacuum than...

yeah, me too; that was easy, the hard part is getting one of the carb/mainfold nuts on - must have taken me about half an hour due to access - I had to wrap some masking tap tound the nut to form a little hand and then spin it on - a right bugger I can tell you.

only 80,000 miles :p ??

you can take the unit apart - I did it 3 times - by unfolding the crimped over edge. Inside is a diaphragm: cloth impregnated with rubber or similar that acts on the lever that screws in the middle - a spring holds it in its quiescient state. It may be posibld to repair it - I failed so made...