ZF 4HP22 step by step.

corazon

Well-Known Member
Good news!
Still yet to test my setup but final spec will be 4.8 with edelbrock 500, strong ZF hybrid and 3.54 Jag LSD, should be a good combination by my calculations
 
Off topic slightly, but I need some guidance...

I was given a 4HP22 out of a BMW 320 (E36 I think), it probably needs rebuilding because it ran with low oil level, but before I do that, it had a big electrical connector on the side meaning it has an ECU somewhere, my question is, is it a stand alone ECU or will it likely be integrated into the engine ECU as well? It had it's identification plate removed at some point, so I have no idea what actual model it is.

The master plan is to fit it to my P6 and for that it will need to be mechanically controlled, hence my question.
 
Mmm, 5HP? OK, that's interesting.

Mind goes off at a tangent regarding possibilities.

Ta for the offer of a 4HP, but I am in Cape Town, so shipping will be a challenge...:eek:
 

PeterZRH

Well-Known Member
There is an electronic version of the 4HP. I wonder "how electronic" is actually is. I had it on my BMW e34 5 series. It had a "sport" and "normal" selector but didn't appear to drive much differently to any other auto apart from the shift points.
 
PeterZRH said
"There is an electronic version of the 4HP. I wonder "how electronic" is actually is. I had it on my BMW e34 5 series. It had a "sport" and "normal" selector but didn't appear to drive much differently to any other auto apart from the shift points."

That's the early type Peter the first of the so called EH versions, the switch actuated a solenoid that made the shifts a bit harder, a bit of a sales gimmick rather than a fully electro hydraulic unit, the box would work with or without the switch connected as it's an " OFF " type.

The fully EH boxes need an ECU that feeds information from the engine management system to control exact shift points,
There is no governor only a speed sensor that returns a signal and the control unit is fully electro hydraulic operated so it will not perform at all without power.
 
Hello Chaps.
Read through this thread numerous times with great interest and have acquired Land Rover discovery 3.9 auto as a doner - That is if I can bring myself to part it out as it goes quite well.
Anyway.
Whats the last word on the best tail gearbox to use. Does the jag tail end fit without driveshaft shortening?
Is it easier to swap the land rover bell housing to a jag box or the tail section of a jag box to a land rover? (guessing the latter, inhibitor switch not present on jag box)
Anyone got some pics of how they did the cross member?
Any suggestions on SU needle size for running a 3.9.

cheers
Edward
 
Whats the last word on the best tail gearbox to use. Does the jag tail end fit without driveshaft shortening?
Is it easier to swap the land rover bell housing to a jag box or the tail section of a jag box to a land rover? (guessing the latter, inhibitor switch not present on jag box)
This is all based on observation and anecdotal only as I have not yet got to this point in my plan, but the Discovery box will have a long shaft that is not suited to a rear wheel drive application as it is not threaded to accept a flange nut, and will be too long for an extension housing, too.
You will need an extension housing AND shaft to complete your project.

I am kicking around a 4HP24 out of my Range Rover P38 as my stating point, and it has a stubby shaft that may be adaptable as long as the rear housing can be persuaded to fit the tunnel, otherwise I will also need an extension housing and shaft replacement, too.

I stand under correction, but the front of the boxes should be the same, with different bellhousings to suit the engines, so if I am correct, the V8 one will bolt on in place of the Jag one. Just remember to check the seating depth of the torque converter.
 
Hi , I been reading this thread ( just found it )as I am fitting a rv8 to my mk3 capri . Originally I had toyota w57 5 speed ......but due to a bit of bad driving by some old guy I have had a above knee amputation which has left me without enough feet for a manual.
I bought my 4hp22 out of a BMW something. I got a range rover bell housing and the flex plate and spacers. I had to get another drive yoke for the output shaft (dunno what its off ....I "think" maybe a Jag ) but while it fits up ok the oil seal is to big and does not bear on the shaft ,so a bit more faffing about to come.
My main issue is that whilst this box is supposed to be full hydraulic there is a 2 wire bayonet fitting. The previous owner said he never connected it and didnt know what it was. I can hear something clicking when I put 12v on it . I had assumed it was for the converter lock up but aint so sure now.
As above the trans is tilted about 10 deg and I have had conflicting advice as to wether this will work . My take was to cut the pan on front ,rear and one side and weld in a sort of wedge to leave the bottom of the pan level ,with a mod to the pick up.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated .
Pix follow. Thanks
IMG_20220403_103909.jpg IMG_20220403_103909.jpg IMG_20220403_103820.jpg IMG_20220403_104331.jpg IMG_20220403_104227.jpg
 
If your planning to use that four bolt flange you need to have that big nut further on the shaft. That spigot will have to go too or you wont get matching flange on. Note the two flanges line up on the square ledge; there being a matching male piece on the tailshaft flange. Your shaft needs this part to line up as well as the bolt holes as that is how the shafts are centred.

It looks like if you take the flange off and machine the (inside gearbox) end down a few MM the seal will probably fit on the shiny part. Polish the area up while its in the lathe so the seal doesn't wear on the rough finish.
.
Somebody has a pattern for the mounting. Its in the earlier text close to this end.
 
Yeah , thats pretty much the plan :). I had to buy that yoke off ebay , some guy in Canada , coz none of the wreakers here would sell me the yoke alone ....just a whole trans , so , I never really had a chance to measure it up before it got here. I have a (holden ) flange/yoke big enough to adapt to fit ..........just gotta find access to a lathe:)
 
If you use those two mounts and the standard rover front mounts you might want to think about including some means of positive longtudinal location as you will be relying on just four blocks of rubber to control forward/aft movement of the engine otherwise
 
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