ZF 4HP22 step by step.

corazon

Well-Known Member
Good news!
Still yet to test my setup but final spec will be 4.8 with edelbrock 500, strong ZF hybrid and 3.54 Jag LSD, should be a good combination by my calculations
 
Off topic slightly, but I need some guidance...

I was given a 4HP22 out of a BMW 320 (E36 I think), it probably needs rebuilding because it ran with low oil level, but before I do that, it had a big electrical connector on the side meaning it has an ECU somewhere, my question is, is it a stand alone ECU or will it likely be integrated into the engine ECU as well? It had it's identification plate removed at some point, so I have no idea what actual model it is.

The master plan is to fit it to my P6 and for that it will need to be mechanically controlled, hence my question.
 
Mmm, 5HP? OK, that's interesting.

Mind goes off at a tangent regarding possibilities.

Ta for the offer of a 4HP, but I am in Cape Town, so shipping will be a challenge...:eek:
 

PeterZRH

Well-Known Member
There is an electronic version of the 4HP. I wonder "how electronic" is actually is. I had it on my BMW e34 5 series. It had a "sport" and "normal" selector but didn't appear to drive much differently to any other auto apart from the shift points.
 
PeterZRH said
"There is an electronic version of the 4HP. I wonder "how electronic" is actually is. I had it on my BMW e34 5 series. It had a "sport" and "normal" selector but didn't appear to drive much differently to any other auto apart from the shift points."

That's the early type Peter the first of the so called EH versions, the switch actuated a solenoid that made the shifts a bit harder, a bit of a sales gimmick rather than a fully electro hydraulic unit, the box would work with or without the switch connected as it's an " OFF " type.

The fully EH boxes need an ECU that feeds information from the engine management system to control exact shift points,
There is no governor only a speed sensor that returns a signal and the control unit is fully electro hydraulic operated so it will not perform at all without power.
 
Hello Chaps.
Read through this thread numerous times with great interest and have acquired Land Rover discovery 3.9 auto as a doner - That is if I can bring myself to part it out as it goes quite well.
Anyway.
Whats the last word on the best tail gearbox to use. Does the jag tail end fit without driveshaft shortening?
Is it easier to swap the land rover bell housing to a jag box or the tail section of a jag box to a land rover? (guessing the latter, inhibitor switch not present on jag box)
Anyone got some pics of how they did the cross member?
Any suggestions on SU needle size for running a 3.9.

cheers
Edward
 
Whats the last word on the best tail gearbox to use. Does the jag tail end fit without driveshaft shortening?
Is it easier to swap the land rover bell housing to a jag box or the tail section of a jag box to a land rover? (guessing the latter, inhibitor switch not present on jag box)
This is all based on observation and anecdotal only as I have not yet got to this point in my plan, but the Discovery box will have a long shaft that is not suited to a rear wheel drive application as it is not threaded to accept a flange nut, and will be too long for an extension housing, too.
You will need an extension housing AND shaft to complete your project.

I am kicking around a 4HP24 out of my Range Rover P38 as my stating point, and it has a stubby shaft that may be adaptable as long as the rear housing can be persuaded to fit the tunnel, otherwise I will also need an extension housing and shaft replacement, too.

I stand under correction, but the front of the boxes should be the same, with different bellhousings to suit the engines, so if I am correct, the V8 one will bolt on in place of the Jag one. Just remember to check the seating depth of the torque converter.
 
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