WooHoo!

#1
The 72 2000TC green goddess is home! New tyres, calipers, discs, pads, flexis all round, ss exhaust, manifold, electronic ignition, coil, HT leads, battery, new halogen lights + 4 relays, front bumper, wiper arms, got working door keys, everything wet drained / flushed / changed, and a genuine 70's crooklock.

Next things - fuel gauge doesn't work, temp gauge doesn't work, speedo works but a bit unsteady. Rev counter all over the place (to do with the electronic ignition maybe?)

Clock doesn't work either. Worst of all, neither does the radio! (have a plan for that though!)

Worth trying new gauges for the fuel and temp?
 

PeterZRH

Well-Known Member
#5
Fuel and temp come off the stabilizer. Tacho won't work properly unless it is a later RVC type with electronic ignition. If you look at the fine text on the face and it says "RVI" then you need to fit something like a Spiyda tachometer kit. Speedo is likely the cable or angle drive. Listen for noises at the back.
 
#9
Should try searching first.... Found this post from a couple of years ago

'This may or may not be relevant to the problem, but it's not necessary to change to an RVC rev counter when fitting electronic ignition. You simply feed the power to the ignition module directly from the ignition switch rather than from the coil positive (assuming a negative earth car). The existing wire to coil positive, which passes through the RVI rev counter on its way to the coil, stays in place.

I've done this with two P6s and the rev counters have worked perfectly. Hope this helps"

Thanks to original poster johnsimister
 

PeterZRH

Well-Known Member
#10
Should try searching first.... Found this post from a couple of years ago

'This may or may not be relevant to the problem, but it's not necessary to change to an RVC rev counter when fitting electronic ignition. You simply feed the power to the ignition module directly from the ignition switch rather than from the coil positive (assuming a negative earth car). The existing wire to coil positive, which passes through the RVI rev counter on its way to the coil, stays in place.

I've done this with two P6s and the rev counters have worked perfectly. Hope this helps"

Thanks to original poster johnsimister
It depends on which type of electronic ignition you are fitting. If it's merely a points replacement system then it might be "very nearly" correct. If it's a proper feedback controlled ignition module then the whole point is you fit a very low impedance coil which won't work at all.
 
#12
It depends on which type of electronic ignition you are fitting. If it's merely a points replacement system then it might be "very nearly" correct. If it's a proper feedback controlled ignition module then the whole point is you fit a very low impedance coil which won't work at all.
The system in my case is an Aldon (aka Pertronix) Ignitor, but not the cleverer Ignitor II which has variable dwell. The coil is the original low-resistance one from 1972, albeit not ultra-low at maybe 1.5 ohms, fed via the original ballast resistor. And two years (or more) on it's still working fine.
 

PeterZRH

Well-Known Member
#13
The system in my case is an Aldon (aka Pertronix) Ignitor, but not the cleverer Ignitor II which has variable dwell. The coil is the original low-resistance one from 1972, albeit not ultra-low at maybe 1.5 ohms, fed via the original ballast resistor. And two years (or more) on it's still working fine.
1.5 ohms is standard for a ballasted system.
 
#15
Fuel and temp come off the stabilizer. Tacho won't work properly unless it is a later RVC type with electronic ignition. If you look at the fine text on the face and it says "RVI" then you need to fit something like a Spiyda tachometer kit. Speedo is likely the cable or angle drive. Listen for noises at the back.
Tacho kit ordered, thanks for the suggestion. The hardest bit will no doubt be getting the binnacle off and the tacho apart - the electronic stuff itself looks a doddle. I'll have a go at cleaning and lubricating the angle drive while I'm in there, and will order a replacement stabiliser in advance (might as well, then I don't have to have the thing apart again!).
 

DAK

Active Member
#16
I installed one of the Spiyda kits in my tacho. In addition to removing the bezel and installing the new board, I had to work at getting accurate readings across the range of RPMs, There are weights to move to adjust the calibration. Chris was very supportive with this. He also will roll on a new bezel if the old one is to far gone after removal.
 

PeterZRH

Well-Known Member
#17
Tacho kit ordered, thanks for the suggestion. The hardest bit will no doubt be getting the binnacle off and the tacho apart - the electronic stuff itself looks a doddle. I'll have a go at cleaning and lubricating the angle drive while I'm in there, and will order a replacement stabiliser in advance (might as well, then I don't have to have the thing apart again!).
Even if you have an RVC tachometer, the Spidya kit will give more stable readings without the needle bouncing. But really it's more a piece of fun to do. I actually have a standard RVC in my V8 and its hardly dynamic enough to bother!

 
Top