wheel nut size info for rover alloys

westOz74P6B

Member
Is someone able to provide the measument for the sleeve shank diameter for the wheelnuts which suit the rover alloy wheels, I see that Wins do a set of wheel nuts to suit alloys fitment to P6 (7/16" thread), but was wanting to know what the shank diameter is (and shank length as well if whoever can oblige),
Cheers,
Scott

edit, would you believe it, I just tried a 13mm socket in the hole of the rover alloys and it was a very neat fit, that measured 0.700" (17.78mm), so, what I then need to confirm is, is this size hole unique to the rover alloys, therefore no point trying to source some wheelnuts other than those available from Wins?? because other aftermarket ones I've tried so far are a bit on the small (shank dia 0.681") side.
 
thanks for the topic link Jim, I have SD1 series 2 alloys to fit to my P6B, but trying the wheel nuts I have, 7/16" with sleeve diameter of 0.680" there seems to be a bit of movement on the PCD so was wanting to find out what the actual sleeve diameter is (and length as well) on an OEM metric wheel nut for an SD1, whether it is actually same as the hole which I measure to be 0.700" or if the 0.020thou difference matters??

I will have to ask Wins if they can oblige with the dimensions of the wheel nuts they offer for the P6/SD1 alloys fitment.

Scott
 
UPDATE: a very quick reply from Geoff at Wins confirms that (as I thought as much) that the sleeve diameter for the wheel nuts required has to be 0.699" and sleeve length is 0.490", which seems to say thay any wheel nut given a sleeve diameter of 0.680" is unsuitable. 0.680" must be a standard adopted by most alloy wheel producers whereas rover must have opted for a 0.699" hole size for their OEM alloys?? If I can't source anything suitable locally in Oz then I will have to opt for the Wins wheel nuts, as mentioned above when I use the 0.680" dia nuts there is slight loosness and I record with a dial indicator about 20-35thou runout on the alloy wheel, everytime I nip up the nuts it does not run true. see below correspondence with Geoff at Wins International.
Scott


0.699" Diameter
Length of sleeve 0.490"
Geoff

______________________________________


Geoff Unwin
Wins International Ltd
Unit 21B
Durkins Road
Charlwoods Industrial Estate
East Grinstead
West Sussex
RH19 2ER
Tel : 01342-327018
E-mail : winsintltd@sky.com or sales@rover-classics.co.uk
Website : www.winsintltd.co.uk (For full Pricelists)




Thanks Geoff, are you able to confirm sleeve diameter and sleeve length of the wheel nuts, I have tried wheel nuts with a 0.680” diameter sleeve and they seem loose in the holes as I measure the holes to be 0.700” which I take it to be the same on all the versions of OEM rover alloys, I have the SD1 series 2 alloys.
Regards,
Scott
 
Still confused :? , I know I am...

UPDATE #2: I recieved the wheel nuts from WINS, but apparently rather than the 0.699" originally quoted, they turned out to be 0.669", so presumably a misprint from WINS as they said the original wheel nuts off an SD1 fitted with alloys measure 0.680", which is the same as the first lot of wheel nuts I sourced here in Oz. But even using the 0.680" wheel nuts they still do not centralise the alloy wheel on the P6 front hubs (actually, I haven't tried the rear hubs yet) SO...

Question 1; are the SD1 alloys, "Hub Centered" on both Series 1 and 2 SD1's?, that is, all that the wheel nuts do is clamp the wheel to the hub face and the alloy wheel actually fits on the hub spigot.

Question 2; do all UK SD1 alloys have 0.700" holes in the wheels? (series 1, 2 and vittesse alloys)

Question 3; How are all you people with SD1 alloys fitted to your P6's getting away with it??????

Question 4; Do the series 1 alloys fit on the P6 hub spigot? (so the series 2 alloys don't because they have a bigger bore?)

Originally I was trying to source mag wheel nuts with a 0.700" diameter shank as this would be the ideal, but seeing that all I can find so far is 0.680" diameter, my next thought was to fit "hub centric rings" to have the alloys centralise on the hub as the difference between alloy wheel hub and P6 hub spigot is 2.63mm (ie wheel bore = 58.16 and P6 hub spigot = 55.53mm) so I will have to custom make some hub rings so as to centralise the alloys, or, give up :(

For the record, it is SD1 series 2 alloys I am trying to fit to my P6B, and I did have these style alloys on an '85 SD1 I used to have but can't recall if they were hub centered or nut centered.

And also I do realise that I will have to fit different grease caps as the original ones foul the back of the alloy wheels.

Thanking you for any light you can shed on my dilemma.
Scott
 
westOz74P6B said:
Question 3; How are all you people with SD1 alloys fitted to your P6's getting away with it??????

I fitted SD1 studs and used SD1 wheel nuts.

The grease cap on the front did cause a slight problem in that the lip (the rim of the hat as it were) held the wheel off of the hub slightly. I hacksawed the rim off, that worked 8)

Richard
 
Thanks Richard, I did see an earlier post of yours with mention of using hacksaw, but taking the rim off explains it better, so that will solve one problem, so tell me, do your SD1 studs (being metric thread) and using sd1 metric wheel nuts centralise the wheel using the wheelnuts ie: your wheelnuts are a neat fit in the alloys you have fitted?? and what alloys do you have?? I think they look like series 1 SD1 alloys from your avatar pic??

Thanks in advance,
Scott
 
yes please for the pics, at your lesuire, every bit of info helps, I'll measure the P6 grease cap OD to see if it will help centralise the wheel, if not, may have to machine some hub spigot spacers up. If you do get a chance, could you measure wheel nut sleeve/shank diameter and length of shank (again, at your lesuire) if you have suitable vernier of course, as I'd like to get an accurate size from you (or anybody) all these damn alloys seem to be different and I would like to know one way or another. As I mentioned earlier the holes in my alloys are 0.700".
Scott

edit; I see you have vitesse alloys.
 
Hi, you only need to, as I am sure you know, find a spigot ring or fit correctly sized sleeve
nuts. You don't need to do both. There are lots of spigot ring adaptors which are made of
plastic available on Ebay. I had a quick look but couldn't find a 55mm one so perhaps a
larger diameter one with a segment cut out and closed up and glued will suffice because
once the wheel is secured it's job is done. Removing the P6 grease cap which goes over the
boss on the hub and replacing with an SD1 grease cap which goes inside the boss will help
with that.

As far as the nuts are concerned there is a company over here that specialises only in nuts,
studs and bolts. -

http://www.mistertee.co.uk/index.html

Have a word with him and see what he says, he may be able to allay some of your fears. I am,
no offence, inclined to believe you are over thinking this. :? :)

Colin
 
colnerov said,
Have a word with him and see what he says, he may be able to allay some of your fears. I am,
no offence, inclined to believe you are over thinking this.

Over thinking am I?? Hang on, I've just re-read from the begining, you may have a point Col :LOL:

Basically, having gotten some series 2 SD1 alloys, I thought they would fit with obtaining wheel nuts to suit the 0.700" holes, then they would centre using the wheel nuts.
WINS mentioned that their wheel nuts have a 0.699" sleeve diameter, so I duly purchased a set, and thought all will be well.
But... when they arrived the size was 0.669", so a misprint in the email I recieved from WINS took me back to square one.
A recent response from Mistertee said all he had was a standard size sleeve diameter of 0.680" (11/16"), which is originally what I purchased here in Oz.

So as you point out Colin, I will have to obtain a suitable spigot ring for the front to be able to centre the wheels using the 0.680" set of wheel nuts I have (and/or tweak a near size hub /spigot ring).

But... the rear wheel flange does not have a spigot at all so I see on the internet that you can get a spacer with a spigot to suit, I will have to do this for the rears.

Which then begs my (hear I go again :roll: ) question, How do those that have fitted rover alloys to their P6's at the rear, get away with it?

Do the UK alloys have a 0.680" hole to suit 0.680" wheel nuts and are therefore nut centered?

I could just sleeve the holes in my wheels to suit 0.680" wheel nuts, but thats getting time consuming but It would solve the problem of looking for hub spigot rings.

I would imagine that those that have had aftermarket wheels, ie Minilites, then they would be made and supplied with the accepted standard wheel nuts of 0.680".

As Richard mentions that the wheel nuts fit snuggly in the Vitesse wheels he has, then what size are we taking about as Richard has no need for a hub spacer of any type at the rear?? or even those who have series 1 SD1 alloys fitted at the rear.

Maybe the aussie heat has gotten to my wheels :LOL:
And me as well as its warming up now down here :D

Thankyou for your indulgence people.
 
Hi, Scott. If you are prepared to sleeve the holes to suit the wheels nuts, why not have
a sleeve machined to have a tapered seat so that a conventional taper seat wheel nut
can be used? Provided of course that there is enough meat in the sleeve. This would then
solve your problem with the rear hub.

I am afraid I can't help with my observations specifically but in the past working on a variety
of cars I don't ever remember this type of wheel nut being any sort of snug fit in the wheel.
In fact being dissimilar metals they don't really want to be too close in size.

Colin
 
westOz74P6B said:
I would imagine that those that have had aftermarket wheels, ie Minilites, then they would be made and supplied with the accepted standard wheel nuts of 0.680".

I have Minilites, and used SD1 studs with SD1 alloy wheelnuts.
 
I have the same problem. Having purchased brand New SD1 Vitesse whhels from Rimmer last year Complete With nuts and centre caps, I also bought the recommended nuts from MrTee to suit the original 7/16" wheelstuds on my car. Recently I got some Nice Dunlop 205/65-HR15 tyres fitted and carefully balanced on the Wheels and tried them on the car. I noticed a lot of slack around the Shanks but tightened it up and went for a test drive. It was horrible with really bad vibrations driving above 70 km/hr (43 miles/hr)t
Took the nuts and Wheel off the car and measured the shank and the nut holes in the Wheel. The shank was as stated 0,68 " or 17,27 mm, The nuthole in the Wheel is 19 mm or 3/4" . It is not a tight fit at all. I also measured the metric nuts I got from Rimmers and they were 11/16"(0,688) or 17,46 mm. I am puzzled. On MrTees pages I see he has got a medium bulge With washer (part no 5001T) that has a shank diameter of 0,73". This should fit I presume, and be a very tight fit also in the 19 mm holes.
I am very interested in hearing what nut hole size other SD1 Vitesse Wheel owners has got. Mine are as I said 19 mm or 0,748"

regards, Barten
 
Why not see if you can get a piece of thick wall stainless steel pipe that will fit the studs snuggly and then drill the wheel holes and press the pipe in, or turn the pipe to fit the wheel hole if enough wall thickness left.
 
Show us your nuts! :oops: oops that didnt come out sounding right :LOL: but seriously some photos of your wheels would help.
As far as I am aware there are differences between the Vittesse and the standard SD1's. I know when I put mine on there were Zero issues with the available Super Cheap / Repco available mag nuts and that the hubs did not interfere either.
Here are mine..... well not my nuts :roll:
Tomorrow if I find some time I can do a measure of the nut shanks and hole sizes




Graeme
 
I have some Pictures showing the slack around the nut Shanks. And of course a Picture of the car with the Wheels on. Unfortunately it looks much better than it drives with these Wheels.
 

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This thread is developing nicely, now that we are getting down to the nitty gritty, ie what exactly are others shank/sleeve sizes and hole sizes in each type of rover alloy...and more likely is trending towards the fact that the alloys on SD1's are "hub centred" but this still needs to be acertained, anyone???

Colin suggested,
Hi, Scott. If you are prepared to sleeve the holes to suit the wheels nuts, why not have
a sleeve machined to have a tapered seat so that a conventional taper seat wheel nut
can be used? Provided of course that there is enough meat in the sleeve. This would then
solve your problem with the rear hub.

I think Colin you are right on the sleeving the holes (all the holes) as it will negate the need to mess around with spigot spacers and then the wheels can be rotated front to rear without issues, as the holes are 0.700" and the wheel nut shank is 0.680" then a 10thou thin sleeve is required to fit, but as you allude to there would not be enough meat to machine a tapered seat unless I could use the type of sleeve nut that also has the taper seat, which would mean machining a taper seat in the wheels, OH its getting complicated!!! easier to buy a SD1 :LOL:


Barten mentioned,
I have the same problem.

I feel your pain Barten, hopefully this thread can come up with an ideal solution for us both. strange that your vitesse hole size (0.748") is larger than my series 2 SD1 alloys (0.700").

Graeme smuggly wrote!!
I know when I put mine on there were Zero issues with the available Super Cheap / Repco available mag nuts and that the hubs did not interfere either.

You lucky so and so Graeme, but still be interested to know your sizes. maybe series 1 alloys don't have the above problems.

Thanks all,
Regards,
Scott
 
Hi, right, I have been out to my treasure store and dragged out one of the Vittesse* wheels
and the nuts. The wheel nut shank is .680", although the holes in the wheel are awkward to
measure they are only a few thou bigger. The nuts are a nice fit in the hole, certainly not
20thou loose. So I think the holes in your wheels are either worn or have been opened out,
I would think the latter. As it seems all readily available wheel nuts seem to be .680" then
I think it might be prudent to sleeve the wheel holes back to the correct size. That will then
cure all your concerns about centralising.

Colin

* you keep saying SD1 Series 2 wheels, but which ones exactly are you referring to, because
what we call Vittesse wheels are Series 2. There was a thread on here somewhere, which I
can't find at the moment which had pics of all the SD1 alloy wheels.
 
Hi Colin,

I think the hole size in my Vitesse Wheels must be larger than what most of you have. I bought them brand New from Rimmer bros last year.
I have sent a mail to mrTee and asked about his part no 5001 T which has a shank diameter of 0,73". With my 0,748"holes that doesn't sound too bad i think. The easy way to get a good measurement of the holes is from the inside (if Your Wheels are off). Thanks for Your effort! I Wonder if there are anyone out there With the same 0,748"or 19 mm holes in their Vitesse Wheels.
regards, Barten
 
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