What's the best engine oil ? - Can YOU recommend a brand name ?

What's the best, readily available engine oil that I can use in my 1968 Three Thousand Five which does less than 3000 miles per year (driven gently) and has one oil and filter change each year ?
Many thanks for replying with your recommendation.
 
One issue you may consider is that I believe the oil deteriorates due to contamination with old oil and purely through contact with the metal. It may be an idea to change the oil twice a year if possible, (you only need change the filter once if prefered) or perhaps use a fully synthetic or semi synthetic based oil will be better.
A lot of the people that I come into contact with say the same thing - "better to use a cheap oil and change it often than use a very expensive one and leave it in a long time."
So I guess a good compromise is to use a reasonable oil, (like a good semi-synthetic) and change it twice a year.

Just my opinion of course, as for the grade I'm not entirely sure. I bet Pete has an opinion though !!

Richard
Webmaster
 
Well Thanks, fellas
I'm still none the wiser!
I have thirty years experience of doing my own oil changes but the brands that I know to be good are disappearing faster than decent petrol.
Regards, John.
 
So come on then, 52+ of you have read this simple plea and not one recommendation for an oil that I can purchase.
let's see if we can have an answer before Easter, which is about the time that my car receives its annual service.
Thank you in anticipation, John
 
hello
i use castrol gtx for regular oil changes, most motor factors are selling it for £7.99 now so at that price, i have no excuse for changing my oil, i must admit, i reckon castrol is one of the better oils around, a good straight foreward oil, what more could you ask for ? errrrr.............or am i a misguided fool ? :D
 
Well, I've asked Castrol classic oils for their recommendation (bearing in mind that I use Castrol Valvemaster Plus in my fuel and Castrol Magnatec in my everday use car) and to date have had no reply - I'll give them another week and then buy an American Brand - Penn's.
Can't think why so called British firms go bust every day can you ?
Regards, John.
p.s. It's a pity castrol cannot read this !
 
Don't tell everybody.......

Valvoline Racing 20/50.....excellent gear and pretty cheap as well!

If you use GTX for God's sake make sure you use the classic 20/50 and not the new 15/40 stuff.....
 
I would strongly recommend the original spec oil. I have tried all the oils possible (inc Mobile 1) and still find unipart green the best (available from any rover dealer, 20/50 and cheap)

Ian

:D
 
I use Morris Oils 15/50 in all my classics. It's available from lots of motor factors, a good spec and a fair price. My 3500S handbook reckons 10/40 is fine. I can see no reason why the V8 shouldn't be ok with a thinner oil. Years ago I used Mobil 1 when it was a 5/40 and it was brilliant, higher oil pressure quicker on a cold start and smoother running. Modern oils are so much better then what was around when our cars were new. I wouldn't go any thinner than a '40' for the hot viscosity, though the thinner the better for the cold figure.
 
I still say you need a '50' as the hot viscosity.

Most V8's now are a little worn to say the least and although oil pressure is not that critcal when hot (over 15lbs is ok) the higher the better and I find a good 20/50 gives a good 25 to 35 lb pressure when it is stinking hot.

..I stand by my recommendation for a 20/50 and Valveline Racing 20/50 on particular.

..A good V8 will start on a cold winters day with a '20' lower viscosity you just need a good battery and starter motor to turn the thing over.

....now then batteries....any one know of a good one that fits the box and is at least 60 amp hour?
 
The lower the number on the 'cold' figure the better. That means it is thinner and will need less power to turn over the engine and oil circulation will be much quicker.
As for 50 or 40 for the 'hot', a worn engine will probably prefer a 50 but a 40 would be fine in a good condition engine. Later Rovers using this engine are specified to use thinner oil and the size of the oil ways haven't changed as far as I know.
When our cars were new, the standard oil was 20/50, which was the best that oil technology could supply then. Things have moved on. If I had a brand new engine I would run it for 5 -10k miles on standard mineral oil 15/40 then go to a fully synthetic of 0/40 or 5/40.
 
Peter,
Regarding batteries, some I have bought in the past are
Unipart GBY 071 - Lucas 071 - Celtic 369/069 - and B.I.G. 071 55031 depending on supplier.
Hope this helps.
Regards, John
 
Hi Gents.
I tried several different typres of oil in my 2000 auto before hitting the motherlode with Valvoline 15/40W. The engine is quieter, smoother and has more power (and by golly you need it with a 2000 auto!)

I have a very good friend who is also a master mechanic and his opinion is that if 15/40W was available when the car was built they would have fitted it.

Pete - have you ever heard of a moderately used engine being damaged by 15/40W?

Cheers all
Nick Dunning
 
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