What pushrod is this?! And also: why won't it shift into gear?

Dont have a soft copy of the 4cyl parts book,so this is the best I can do.
If the lever is loose and wobbles around, part 48 (soft plastic) has probably broken up. 73 and 74 are rubber and may be soft and loose, and may lead to lost movement. If part 38 is trying to move 2 selector rods (1,5,8, possible if bolt 39 is loose) together you could see your problem - pins 2 and 15 are there to prevent 2 shafts moving. You should get underneath with a good light, and see what happens when somebody inside moves the lever around. Come back when you have some more info.
 

Attachments

  • 2000gearlever.pdf
    489.1 KB · Views: 9
mikecoombs said:
I'm thinking your issue will be with the selector slot and its matching pin. The gear lever directly operates a rod with an offset up on one end into which the lever goes. Pushing the lever across the gate twists the rod. The other end of the rod is at the clutch end of the gearbox and has a short lever clamped to it, the end of which has a small brass bush which moves in a slot created by the ends of the gearbox's three selector rails. I suspect your issue will be in this area. Essentially, you've probably have two gears trying to engage at the same time, that is there are two of the three gearbox shafts trying to engage a gear. Alternatively one gear may be partly selected but the synchro mechanism wasn't lined up so it jammed up. One common reason for this is the brass bush falling off the end of the little lever

Either way you need to get it out of gear first. A working clutch is a big help as it unloads the gearset in the box. You will find under the carpet on the side of the gearbox tunnel there are big rubber plugs. These can be removed to give you access to the slector slot mechanism and you will be able to see the little lever move in the slot and also see if the slot walls are in a straight line. If one (or two) rod(s) is a bit "in" They will be the jammed ones. You can do this by feel with the gearstick.

One other area which is quicker to check is the ball socket that the gearstick pivots on. They do break causing loss of gears selection. I'd actually check this first if the selection process doesn't have any short throws (pushes forward of back)
M
Click to expand...
Wow, I’m going to have to study on this one! Thanks for your elaborate answer
 
jp928 said:
Dont have a soft copy of the 4cyl parts book,so this is the best I can do.
If the lever is loose and wobbles around, part 48 (soft plastic) has probably broken up. 73 and 74 are rubber and may be soft and loose, and may lead to lost movement. If part 38 is trying to move 2 selector rods (1,5,8, possible if bolt 39 is loose) together you could see your problem - pins 2 and 15 are there to prevent 2 shafts moving. You should get underneath with a good light, and see what happens when somebody inside moves the lever around. Come back when you have some more info.
Click to expand...
Thank you so much! I do have the Haynes Owner Workshop Manual, with the same pic inside. I will try and have a good look at it, soon. Might be a while thought, because of lack of time. When I know more, I’ll come back with the results!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top