'Wet Box'

My Question: Does the T35 lack a check valve between the torque conv. and tranny, or what..??.. (I don't believe I've ever seen a definitive answer here..) Why does the torque converter drain back and overfill the box? Design flaw? I accept that mine will always leak; I've tried everything you can think of over the many years to try to seal it up (yep, I do run it every couple of days - does seem to slow the seepage). {for Harvey, of course..... } thanks!....
 
found this...here https://socforum.com/forum/forum/stag-owners-club/soc-forum/21102-torque-converter-drain-back

NUMBER: 67-6
DATE: Jan 23, 1967
GROUP: Borg Warner 35 Transmission
SUBGROUP: Front Pump
MODELS: All Models Equipped With Borg Warner 35 Transmission
SUBJECT: Front Pump Oil Leak
A number of cases have been reported where the front pump assembly is replaced to correct an oil leak, when actually only the oil seal was effected.
Where complaints of this nature are encountered, it is recommended that the following action be taken.
  1. Remove transmission.
  2. Remove front pump assembly referring to Service Manual #139 part 4 (Front Pump Assembly) disassemble, noting carefully the position of the oil pump gears, so that on re-assemble they are returned to their correct location.
  3. Be sure the convertor rear support bushing is in good condition and is not turning in the case.
  4. Replace oil seal, part number 9102114 and pump body "O" ring part #9107128.
    NOTE: After fitting oil seal, be sure that the oil drain hole located between the oil seal and convertor rear support bushing is clear, as this drain relieves excessive oil build up at the seal.
  5. Re-fit pump assembly using new gaskets.
  6. Road test to be sure of correct adjustment of the downshift cable and selector linkage as described in Service Manual 139. Check for oil leaks.

T.H. Bullard
Manager - Service & Parts
 
If that's your car pictured in the avatar ( Nada spec ) then my guess is you have a 9FU BW35 fitted, they do have a check valve spring in the valve body but the spring is very weak and just not up to the job especially if it has compressed over time as it's a really flimsy one.
Early BW35,s had a much sturdier spring which is fitted in a different location, and they also had a paddle flap fitted.
There is a check valve that you can fit in the cooler circuit ( return ) that should stop converter drain back.
Trouble is finding one ....
As for your leaks, they can be tamed to stop leaking, the main cause is the pan gasket / pan itself, the other main culprits are the selector seal and inhibit switch ( if it's from the switch you need to look at your fluid level ) then there is the pump seal, tail gasket,tail seal, pinion seal, ...........
I have also found on several late BW35,s the actual case casting to be flawed in a certain location causing leaks through a crack when in use. I though at first it was a one off, after seeing five the same I am certain the cast mold was flawed and the aluminium used in the cast process to be poor quality compered to the early case casts which are really good.
 
Last edited:
Thank you both for your thoughtful, instructive replies. Interesting about the flawed case casting, could be the problem..... I'm actually on my second trans, the first one leaked just as much..... I've replaced most of the seals you listed, have had the mating surface on the pan machine shop flattened twice, have tried cork and neoprene gaskets, etc.. oh well, I'm always running fresh fluid (Type F, of course) thru it, which can't be a bad thing ...... (if sat for 6 weeks it would probably lose a bit over a U.S. quart).....
 
Back
Top