Webber/Elderbrock Conversion

[stevewilliams]

Hi, been offline for a while but just started to play with the P6 again. Low oil pressure, been advised engine out and new shell bearings..!

Also, has anyone fitted one of Rimners Webber carb conversion kits, was thinking of doing this as the SUs are a real pain to keep in tune.

 

[PeterZRH]

RPi have a lot of info as I'm certain you already know. SUs a pain? Really? Once you are in tune it's more an exercise in resisting the temptation to fiddle, surely? What they don't like is modifications as they can't compensate like US downdraught designs and EFi (lambda feedback) do.

 

[Quagmire]

Did the person making the diagnosis actually check the bearings?

If not I'd check the oil pump base - if its scored it'll drop the pressure. I have refaced one before with some fine wet and dry on a sheet of plate glass. To do a proper job it should be anodised afterwards, but i never did and its been fine.

Then I'd look at the rocker gear - pop a rocker cover off and see how much oil is flowing about at idle. Don't rev the engine or oil will flick everywhere! Worn rocker gear will drop your pressure.

Next if you have a set of ramps you could probably get the sump off, unbolt a cap and have a look at a bearing to see whats going on. Something is telling me that this may not be possible if you have an auto though - hopefully Harvey will be along to give you a definitive answer shortly.

 

[harveyp6]

Next if you have a set of ramps you could probably get the sump off, unbolt a cap and have a look at a bearing to see whats going on. Something is telling me that this may not be possible if you have an auto though - hopefully Harvey will be along to give you a definitive answer shortly.

It can be done on an auto, you just have to remove the exhaust front pipes to be able to remove the sump.

 

[stevewilliams]

Did the person making the diagnosis actually check the bearings?

If not I'd check the oil pump base - if its scored it'll drop the pressure. I have refaced one before with some fine wet and dry on a sheet of plate glass. To do a proper job it should be anodised afterwards, but i never did and its been fine.

Then I'd look at the rocker gear - pop a rocker cover off and see how much oil is flowing about at idle. Don't rev the engine or oil will flick everywhere! Worn rocker gear will drop your pressure.

Next if you have a set of ramps you could probably get the sump off, unbolt a cap and have a look at a bearing to see whats going on. Something is telling me that this may not be possible if you have an auto though - hopefully Harvey will be along to give you a definitive answer shortly.

 

[stevewilliams]

Hi, mate of mine an ex mechanic and classic car nut diagnosed it. Oil light flickers/stays solid/gauge drops after about 30mins of running, goes off/pressure up once in park and takes longer to flicker/come on in cold weather. He reckons takes longer in cold weather as the oil is not as warm/thin.

 

[harveyp6]

If you read the handbook it says it's acceptable if the oil light flashes on at idle when it's hot, as long as there is still a reading on the gauge.

 

[stevewilliams]

If you read the handbook it says it's acceptable if the oil light flashes on at idle when it's hot, as long as there is still a reading on the gauge.

If you read the handbook it says it's acceptable if the oil light flashes on at idle when it's hot, as long as there is still a reading on the gauge.

Yes I've seen that and did talk to another P6 owner who was concerned about the same thing. Although, the reading drops to almost nothing i'd leave it, although I'm a little worried I may do the engine some damage.

 

[Penguin]

oil light on at tick over is very common, more so with some oils than others,if its only at tick over on a hot engine it wont do bearing damage, unless pressure is so low the tappets get noisy

 

[ghce]

Make sure you are doing 650 RPM on idle especially if an auto box.

I have the Weber 500 and Edelbrock on my car, total transformation in terms of road performance with power on demand not on catch up like the SU delivers.
No idea how the Rimmer kit works out, I bought mine direct from the States at a fraction of the price.

Were I to do it again I would look seriously at EFI and a distributor less ignition system as has been done by other on this forum, far more control on every prameter from fueling to spark delivery.