water pump P6b

GRTV8

Well-Known Member
questions before I do the unthinkable

Im replacing my noisy [not leaking] water pump on my 72 V8 P6. It sounds "boney".

Ive heard it's easy to snap the bolts removing the pump. How do I avoid this?

I have at hand stainless bolts that suit the pump. Is this a good way to go?

What ever bolts I use , is it advisable to use a grease on the thread ?

other than that It all looks fairly straight forward for my backyard mechanical experience with the ws manual at hand.
I might add it does have the viscous coupling as mine is a/c.
My local Rover dealer had a nos gasket which he couldn't be bothered writing an invoice for. He says he has no call for 3.5 gaskets and was surprised to find one in his discard bin- my luck. I'll make a copy just in case.
 

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Hi, I would say don't use stainless bolts. Steel bolts can seize in the Ali housing through galvanic corrosion and stainless is further away than steel on the Galvanic scale so would be worse. I always use Copperslip.

Galvanic scale.jpg

Colin

Edit: Oh that's bigger than I expected. :oops:
 
I would at least use new bolts, and some type of anti-seize/ thread sealant. First though, I would run a chaser through the block threads - NOT a tap, a proper chaser. On my alloy block Porsche 928 I broke 3 bolts on my first pump, used anti-seize and chased the threads, no bolts broken on second pump change. On these the pumps are a service item at cam belt time, as the pump is driven by the belt, and a seized pump can be a major PITA!
 
First water pump changed by Rover Specialist. Old bolts used without comment. When I had to change the 'new' soon after, found thread in the block stripped. Fitted new pump with stainless bolts using 'anti-seize' Years later no problem with removing bolts and fitting new pump.
I use an Aliminium based anti-seize compound. Also used on exhaust bolts which have been undone with no problems.
I know I should get the stripped thread in the block drilled out and helicoil fitted, but the pump does not leak and too big of a job to do.
Since I got the anti-seize from friend, I have used it on almost every nut/bolt I fit, and never had any trouble un-doing them later.
 
Hi Gerald,

If it is not leaking, then I would advise against changing it, unless you can see that the bearing seal has failed and it has sprayed grease everywhere.

I would not use grease, instead, use an anti-seize lubricant. I have never had bolts that required more torque than necessary to undo them, and I have never had any snap or anything else untoward. I have heard that they can snap, but more likely from not having used an anti-seize lubricant.
I have never found the need to chase the threads, but that doesn't mean that you shouldn't.

Ron
 
Hi Gerald,

If it is not leaking, then I would advise against changing it, unless you can see that the bearing seal has failed and it has sprayed grease everywhere.

I would not use grease, instead, use an anti-seize lubricant. I have never had bolts that required more torque than necessary to undo them, and I have never had any snap or anything else untoward. I have heard that they can snap, but more likely from not having used an anti-seize lubricant.
I have never found the need to chase the threads, but that doesn't mean that you shouldn't.

Ron

Hello Ron
No sign of bearing seal leakage
The noise from the pump is quite noticeable -In a Rover embarrassingly sort of way.
Im just concerned it may let go in a "Murphy's Law' kinda way.
Im still a bit concerned I may break a bolt whilst doing an at home job.
I guess as I only do short runs it wouldn't hurt to run this pump to death and can call the Auto club for roadside assist.
I shall let sleeping dogs lie
Meanwhile I'll get all the suggested "stuff" ready for action and out it in the boot
thanks
Gerald
 
Is the noise a whirring sound? I had a pump that made such a sound, quite loud too, when it was still relatively new in the first year or so. Gradually the noise abated. As it would happen, that pump lasted longer than any pump I had previously used, 14 years and 202,286 miles (325,680 km) of service.

You can test the bearing for play be removing the fan belt and gently moving the fan back and forth to and from the engine. When a bearing does fail the impeller will contact the inside surface of the pump making a griding sound. The movement chews out the seal and it then leaks.

Your thoughts are a good plan. If the pump needs to be changed, allow a good four hours as the radiator will be coming out too.

Ron
 
Is the noise a whirring sound? I had a pump that made such a sound, quite loud too, when it was still relatively new in the first year or so. Gradually the noise abated. As it would happen, that pump lasted longer than any pump I had previously used, 14 years and 202,286 miles (325,680 km) of service.

You can test the bearing for play be removing the fan belt and gently moving the fan back and forth to and from the engine. When a bearing does fail the impeller will contact the inside surface of the pump making a griding sound. The movement chews out the seal and it then leaks.

Your thoughts are a good plan. If the pump needs to be changed, allow a good four hours as the radiator will be coming out too.

Ron
Thanks Ron - I'll check the forward and back play. If its all ok , I'll live with the noise
 
thanks for everyones helpful advice.
If everything goes belly up ,Ill let you know what I did wrong.
 
Putting everything back together soon. Ive learnt not to rush into reassembly without first asking someone who has been before.
So Im putting my "new"pump back onto the motor.
I have a new gasket ready.
Do I run sealant over the join as well?
TIA
Gerald
 
I have been using Permatex No 3 since the 1980s, Gerald, and it has never given problems. I always wipe the pump mating surface and that on the timing cover with methylated spirits to assist in a good seal.

Ron
 
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