Valve clearance, timing chain etc. P6 2000TC

Wilfred Oldtimer

Active Member
Good morning,

In a few days I will collect my new P6 and although it's in a good shape I want to check some things like valve clearance, timing chain tension, etc.
Am I right in saying that it's the same procedure as on my XJ6 XK engine when I want to correct the clearance, so release the timing chain and remove the camshaft ?
And is there a manual adjustment to tighten the timing chain, I believe there are two chains on this engine ?

I ordered a manual already, but I'm also curious in advance.

Thanks,
Wilfred
 
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No adjustment on timing chain tension I know of. Valve clearance I would suggest reading the manual several times.
 
Great, thanks

The reason I asked is that I can hear one or more valves making a ticking noise. Not too bad, but not like it’s supposed to be.
First step of course is to check the clearance and adjust if necessary.
 
Great, thanks

The reason I asked is that I can hear one or more valves making a ticking noise. Not too bad, but not like it’s supposed to be.
First step of course is to check the clearance and adjust if necessary.
The ticking isn’t too bad a problem. You may well find the exhaust valves have closed up (which isn’t good). These engines are very sensitive to out of adjustment tappets.
 
Ok, we'll see. Hope for the best...
First things first, tomorrow is the big day.
I also prepared an electronic ignition for this car, after all my profession is electronics.
This module is added to the existing ignition, so the breaking points are still there, the only difference is that the ignition coil is controlled by the module rather then the breaking points.

Can't wait..
 

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My TC responded extremely well to a CDI ignition system - .040" plug gaps, much improved consumption. Read the manual carefully on changing valve shims - the cam carrier is fitted using the head bolts. Chain stretch can be adjusted via the vernier in the cam chain wheel. Keep coming back here for advice if you get lost along the way.
 
Morning, thanks for the warning about the head bolts. Didn't realize that..
I also ordered a manual, better to wait for that to arrive. However, a technician always reads manuals afterwards :cool:
 
Sure, for now it’s sufficient. I’m new to this car and not in a hurry. I also found the original owners manual and parts catalogue in the glove compartment
 

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The Rover Workshop manual is probably the best bet. The Rover P6 Club used to sell CDs containing electronic versions of the various editions of the workshop and parts manuals. I am not sure if they are still available. It was definitely more cost effective than the paper versions being sold.
 
You’ll need to follow the workshop manual for removing the camshaft. Get the camshaft in the wrong position, or undo the bolts in the wrong order and the camshaft can snap!
 
Good evening,

This evening I lifted the cam cover to check the valve clearance. It doesn’t look too bad I think, only cylinder 3 needs some adjustment, or is this still acceptable on this engine?
The tension on the upper chain is also good.

I’m familiar with replacing shims on my other oldtimer car which has a Jaguar XK engine, it’s the same principle, but in this P6 engine the same bolts are also used to tighten the cylinder head ??

Anyway, the cam cover has a new fresh gasket now and the engine seems to be running nicer, but this can also be my imagination of course. :rolleyes:

Thanks,

Wilfred

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Mostly similar to the Jag engine. Do follow the workshop manual for bearing cap removal though. Incorrect order can cause the camshaft to snap! I found some large nuts to use as spacers for each pair of bolts after removing a bearing cap. It goes something like this: remove the two bolts holding the bearing cap, place the spacers (or large nuts) over the cam carrier and reinstall and torque those bolts, then do the next in the order specified in the manual. This way the headgasket remains undisturbed and you can remove the camshaft and tappets to adjust the valve clearances.
 
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