"Value" vs "Originality" vs "Usability"

chrisyork

Active Member
I thought that was an interesting discussion got underway by Rich (Erik the Viking) in the Welcome category.

Many of you may know that neither of my P6's are very standard! One is a 4.6 with ZF 4Spd Auto built with many quirks from a NADA shell. The other is an S1, again with the 4Spd ZF.

So how do I sleep at night knowing I've ruined the originality of my cars?

I think there are a few categories of non originality!

The first relates to things that Rover definitely got wrong and need putting right to make the car properly usable. In this category I'd include things like needing an electric fuel pump to cope with fuel starvation/vapourisation; needing the high capacity oil pump and duplex primary drive; needing the later lip type crankshaft seals; needing a somewhat pokier alternator. Also, if I was looking at a car to buy I'd expect to find a reasonably recent inner sill/rear wheelarch etc rebuild. Arguably you could include a much higher quality paint job than Rover provided!

Any car that didn't have these non original features I would either not buy or mark down heavily on price!!!

Then there is the category of upspeccing an otherwise original car - like Dave Pilkington describes for his. The car finishes up in a condition where it could have left the factory like that.

Fianally there is the category of true variations from original spec. My cars definitely fall into this one!

You must remember that development of the car was pretty well complete by 1967. All subsequent upgrades were already engineered and ready to go by this point (with the sole exception of the 2.2 engine and the S2 bonnet), albeit many not yet launched. Even the NADA 3500S aka prototype S2 was ready in the wings to be launched a year later.

An awful lot of water has gone under the bridge since then and a lot of it relates to the normal driving environment. For instance, motorways were pretty rare then and the normal driving environment was A roads where high speeds were only breifly attained. So today we really notice how undergeared the cars are and how much front end lift they generate at speed where these problems weren't too evident at the time. So today it is entirely sensible to want to fit a 5 speed SD1 or 4 speed ZF gearbox to get an overdrive top. Likewise the Police undertray spoilers become a must have accessory. And continuous high speed use exposes the inadeqauacy of the standard radiator and lack of a sepaprate reservoir.

There are other issues that are more cosmetic. Rear seat belts and side impact bars (available on the NADA's) are a must for passive safety. I personally think it is folly to drive on a UK motorway without a 3rd high level stop lamp and fog warning lamp. I get very nervous in towns that the P6's front and rear lamp clusters don't give the level of side visibility to the turn indicators that is normal today. So I want side repeators as well.

More technically, tyre design has moved on since '67 an radials are available in lower profiles and with stiffer side walls. So the suspension geometry is no longer as suited to the tyres as it was then. Cue a few roll bars and a bit of negative camber.

Nobody had vented discs in '67, but its easy to achieve now and fits the Rover ethos of massive competence in braking.

Rover were never very good at carburettors/inlet manifolds/camshaft profiles/valving and porting. It seems entierly reasonable to me to 2nd guess where Rover might have gone if development had continued.

The key criteria I apply in this stimulating and expensive area is that the final result should bear scrutiny as what Rover would have done had they had 20/20 hindsight. I'm pretty comfortable with my cars in that respect. If you aren't an expert in the breed I reckon you'd be pretty hard put to it to identify what is Rover and what is my subsequent mods.

So where does that leave value?

For me a truly original car gets heavily marked down on value. An intelligently repaired car with the main gremlins sorted gets marked up on value. A sensibly upspecced car is neutral. One like mine that has had a bit more development - well it depends on your personal taste!

I reckon that assessment is significantly at odds with the normal way classic cars are valued - with originality prized above everything else. And I think that is quite clearly the wrong approach!

Of course the real problem with P6's is that they are far too cheap, so this is largely an academic discussion until more people start to realise what fabulous cars they are!!

Chris
 
I am not overly concerned with striving for originality.I want my P-6 to be solid and clean. Additionally I want a few features not offered back then, which I have come to appreciate. Hence my plan to install a REAL electric moon roof, good updated audio system and some of the safety lights and restraints making it safe on today's roads.
Because of the scarcety of P-6's where I live, I suppose this car will always maintain a reasonable resale value should that time come.

Dick West
 
I'm all for upspeccing cars, as Chris well knows! My car is getting ready for an auto gearbox rebuild at some stage, and I have to admit, I want to see how Chris's 4spd ZF box works out. With the fourth gear being taller in top, I'm all for it! Lower revs at motorway speeds, better cruising fuel consumption. It's the same ideal as fitting the LT77 five speed in manual cars.
I think that I have covered most of my views on originality in the "Welcome" section, and I have now added some "Before" and "after" photo's of my car. I think that it's good to try something different on a car that's been well used, and I think that Chris will agree, It's great fun learning new tricks off other people, and working out whether things will work, or look good, over a pint:;):
 
Chris

I'm interested in the ZF conversion - To have smooth changes and low rpm at speed like my Saab 9-5 would be excellent

What donor car did you use, did you need to lengthen the Prop, any issue with speedo calibration and what RPM are you doing at 80mph ?

John
 
Hi John

If this topic generates interest I'll move into the gearboxes section, but in brief: Land Rover Disco/RR bellhousing onto Jag XJ40 electronic box with Jag J gate change. Prop is shortened, so that's easy. Aftermarket electronic brain allows your laptop to set change up points in drive, a sportier set in sport mode and pure manual control (ie the box won't change down just cos it thinks you want to stall!) in the J gate. You get lock up in top and third too (ie the torque convertor is locked so that engine revs rise and fall directly with road speed). Needs minor mods to the top of the tunnel to take the Jag change, shortened prop and we haven't tackled the speedo yet but expect to use a step up / step down in line speedo cable gearbox (easily available in huge number of ratios from the States) to avoid recalibrating the speedo head. Goes in tandem with a very neat cruise control (OK so I'm getting old...). Cheap and cheerfull version uses a LDV Sherpa installation complete from an ambulance or police riot wagon (you could use the 3.9 V8 that comes with it as well..), but you only get standard cable control for the auto.


Chris




Edited By chrisyork on 1197849526
 
keanej said:
Chris

I'm interested in the ZF conversion - To have smooth changes and low rpm at speed like my Saab 9-5 would be excellent

What donor car did you use, did you need to lengthen the Prop, any issue with speedo calibration and what RPM are you doing at 80mph ?

John
As Chris says, if you want the easiest conversion avoiding the electronics, the Sherpa box is the one to go for as it has the cable speedo and selector, you just need the lever in the car changed so it can accomodate the extra position. (PRND321 as opposed to the original PRND21)

I have such a box available c/w most of the bits you would need for the conversion. PM me if you (or anyone else for that matter.) are interested.
 
Well, I'm going for "useability" over anything else.

I have three P6's at present..

'67 2000SC - Arden Green. Owned it since Nov93 just after I turned 17. It's now fitted with the spare wheel kit, roof-mounted aerial, passenger side grab handle, front fog lights, and series 1 SD1 alloy wheels which I think looks great with the Arden Green colour.

'69 NADA RHD 3500S. Was modified from new as it was handed to the Rover engineering dept and converted to RHD by them and then registered as ROV1. Now registered OXC140H. The body shell is so rusty, so a donor one from a 74 P6B will be used. Mechanically it will be original, as will the interior - except for the carpets. The doors will be replaced, but I'm going to re-use the wings and everything else, just using some repair panels. The only major change that I'm making is that I have an original steel sliding sunroof, so the entire roof panel will be changed over.

'70 P6B Estate. Another non-original as it was converted from new, but several months after she was built. Current project as well, so will have some rust removed, panels replaced. Have a brand new webasto sunroof to be fitted, rostyles or minilites (not sure which), thinking about a manual gearbox as well.. and adding power steering and have picked up a complete air con unit to fit in too.

None of my cars are original, but all are usable and fun.. the only one I'll worry about is the NADA car as she only has 30,160miles on the clock. The others are there to be driven..


~Chris
 
(adding to list) yes! Passenger side handle ..almost forgot that one.
There is none on my Taurus, and it drives my wife crazy

Dick West
 
There's some interesting stuff on this forum!

It would be good if we (self included) could post pictures of our various cars / ongoing projects etc on the website gallery, as the pictures don't seem to change except for our unstinting webmaster's contributions. Would a 'project' section be easy to set up, Richard?

Just a thought, but it's great to see what others are up to, & that they're as committed (....should be committed?) as much as ourselves.

Happy Christmas to all of you,

Phil. :D
 
So what would be everyones ideal P6 project then?

Here's mine. I would love to turn one into a 2 door coupe, by stretching the front doors, and then maybe using a rear doorskin to lengthen the rear wings to suite. In the spirit of the original P6 development cars, it would be pillarless. I guess that it would mean a fair bit of structural work!
On the engine front, I quite fancy an alloy blocked Chevy motor, can't decide between auto or manual gearbox, although I do love a good slush box.
And here's the bit that's the real head scratcher, which rear axle do I use? I don't think the poor old P6 diff could cope with the horse power, and it would certainly need an LSD. A more conventional rear end would certainly allow the opportunity to get some bigger tyres in there :;):
Body wise, I would go without the bumpers and side strips, maybe lower the rear roof line a little, angle the rear lights forwards a tad more, twin exit exhausts, and a non original colour :cool:
 
Erik The Viking said:
So what would be everyones ideal P6 project then?

Here's mine. I would love to turn one into a 2 door coupe, by stretching the front doors, and then maybe using a rear doorskin to lengthen the rear wings to suite. In the spirit of the original P6 development cars, it would be pillarless.
What you describe is the coupe as was built by Graber. There is a picture of it in the James Taylor book and it certainly looks very very nice :)
 
Pillarless would be cool! As you say, the very earliest P6 prototypes had the centre B post pillar going up only as far as the top of the door skin, and of course frameless windows, so there ought to be plenty of strength in the base unit. You could also use the same trick as Richard with his convertible and extend the roll of the bottom of the B post out each way over the rest of the sill, effectively giving you a second box section.

The Graber is very nice if a little anodyne. If you were feeling really ambitious you could always go for a "Gladys", the P6 based Alvis that never made it. That looked quite reminicent of the later Australian P76 Force 9 coupe, or perhaps the Mk1 Granada coupe. Distinctive P6 doors and screen though!

Chris
 
Have to say I got a little hung up on originally with my P6 when the engine died. The car has loads of history and is unmolested, all the original documents including typed letters (on a typewriter!) from the dealer to the bank manager who brought it, how stereotypical is that? So what did this urge to preserve the car in original form get me? Not much apart from a waste of time and some money to find out the block was shot. I should have listen to Kev in the first place and just gone out in a van a got an engine of eBay. Ok the brakes were shot as was the flex plate / UJ on the prop. So may not have got back on the road any sooner. And now I've source a short engine that's been rebored and has a reground crank from Alan, had been sat in he's shed for a while, many thanks to him for parting with it. So I've got a 'new' engine to go in now. The moral of the story is, strive for originality at your own risk, it may spell the end of the car.

Now that I've realised that its futile to go for originality I'm also planning a few little upgrades. But must look like factory fitted if I can. Header tank, Kenlow fan and a MP3 player hidden behind the AM/FM radio. :cool:

P.s the brakes are all back together and bled. :) So one mile stone passed. :D
 
Oi !, that's what I'm building..... Although it's taking me a while.
Just to re-cap, the base unit in theory is strong enough to take removing the roof without any modification, although after 30-40 years I wouldn't try it myself !
At the moment my new one is progressing towards a pillarless coupe design, the drivers side shaping is close to completion.

The only photo I can lay my hands on at the moment is this.


doors.jpg


That is with the B/C post moved back 10 inches, front door extended 10 inches and remaining section of rear door attached to rear wing.
The rear of the roof need to be angled forwards slightly too. (that one is a lot more complex than it sounds !)
 
I took a number of factors into consideration.

1, shell stiffness, the wider the door opening the weeker it is.
2, rear seat access, with no rear doors you need to be able to get past a folded down front seat
3, door length / wing length / side "balance" i.e. so you don't end up with an enormous rear wing, with small front door and small front wing.

On top of that I measured numerous 2 door car doors to see what the average length was and based on that I went for 10 inches. (Although I did look at 6 to start with). With this you end up with the front wing as the shortest panel, then the front door, then the rear wing, and I don't think it looks too bad.
Bearing in mind I think it still needs the front quarter lights to finish the door off.

Hopefully I'll be pushing the car out and turning it round to do the other side soon, so I'll get a decent photo while its out of the garage.
 
That's cool! I thought you were building a convertible Mr Webmaster. Great minds think alike aye?:laugh:
Part of my plan for the roof was to make it a little like the BMW 3.0CSL, with the lovely thin pillars. By making the rear roof pillars, normally painted or vinyl covered, a lot thinner when viewed from the side, a longer 1/4 glass can be used. I've had all the 1/4 glass mechanism in bits on an Audi cabriolet at work, and it looks just right for the job. The first part of the movement when lowering the glass takes it down and back at an angle, then it drops straight down. For the seals for the tops of the glasses, I was thinking along the lines of using the channels and seals from a cabriolet roof. Most modern cabriolet hood seals have a clever design so that they actually wrap around the glass a little when compressed, and also the outside has a lip on it, so that rain water drips onto the glass, rather than tracking over the top of it. Part of my plan (or madness?) was the idea of lowering the rear of the roof a little, and changing the angle of the rear screen, so the bottom of it is closer to the bootlid. This then leaves the problem of where to put the fuel flap though. I robbed the idea of laying the rear lights down a little further from ZZ Top's Cadzilla. Now there's a work of art.

Any other takers for the "Fantasy P6 League"?:D
 
chrisyork said:
So how do I sleep at night knowing I've ruined the originality of my cars?
I think there are probably as many answers as there are cars and owners; the question to ask is what do I want from the car and just how rare is it?

If you have a 1920s Bentley, then you’d be a complete mug to make significant changes to the original spec – after all it is a museum piece and the artifact really needs to be preserved for future generations.

However with our more mundane transport devices the question and its answer are much more complex.

If you want a car that you can use every day, but want the classic look then careful mods will enhance its utility and roadability, but you may not want to do this with a perfect low mileage original car.

On the other hand, if you’re more inclined to trailer your perfect original car or top class restoration to shows then originality and provenance do count, but the trade off is perhaps a lack of every day drivability (which you probably won't be doing anyway).

In my view the biggest problems arise when the owner doesn’t have a clear idea of which of these two camps to join or lacks the wherewithal or determination to do either convincingly.
 
Mad_Dan_Eccles said:
In my view the biggest problems arise when the owner doesn’t have a clear idea of which of these two camps to join or lacks the wherewithal or determination to do either convincingly.

I think that was a little of my problem with my engine. I did not have the engineering wherewithal to spot the block was shot. Having now got a bottom end that was already sorted and just needed to be put back together got round my weakness in this area.

The important thing and it goes for any job in life, if you are going to make a change/modification then do it well. The goal to make it look like a factory install. This is not always possible but the closer you get to the ideal the better you will feel about the mod.

In my early teens I used to read the custom car mags and back then a lot of them were big engine, big rear wheels and to hell with how it all got put in there. Then came along a Mk3 Cortina with a rover v8 in it. And the guy had gone to great lengths to make it look like a factory install. It had all the original pipe work, air box and no bodged exhaust. Also the axle had been retained instead of loads of box section to fix a jag rear end. This had a profound impact on the custom car scene, it was not the first car to do it, but was one of the best done. I got to see it in the flesh a year or so later, it was extremely well done, looked better than the savage v6 conversion.

So if your worried about maintaining originality then hitting the factory installed sweet spot will go some way to good nights sleep knowing you've not ruined the car.
 
Interesting subject this. My other vehicular interest is MG's - and it seems the average MGB owner has very different ideas about 'originality' that P6 heads do...I reckon about 90% of MG's now have after market seats (usually leather) and other bits and pieces. My BGT is correct with the cloth seats and other stuff, but I suspect as/when I sell it someone will put modern leather in.

P6's are slightly different.

I strive to keep my 1964 2000 as original as possible - and there are sacrifices to be made here as of course the first cars have the very small servo which makes braking a lot heavier, and just fitting a Lockheed servo (as fitted from early 1965) makes for a much better drive. I'd certainly not take the Dunlop brakes off though, they are fabulous.

My 2200 auto is another kettle of fish though, it's under constant modification, and if things go OK, will get power steering next year.

Cheers
Nick
 
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