DaveRover3500s
Active Member
As a self confessed list maker I finally got down to the “sort the fuse box” note! It’s been listed for at least 2 years but other priorities as always though last year I did make a start sorting out new bus line feed from the amp gauge shunt behind the dash for my twin fans and fuel pump relay feeds. But I wanted to deal with the known loads that can melt the fuse box during normal service. My plan was to use the amp meter shunt connectors to provide a new bus line feed to a new 6 way blade type fuse box and add another 4 relays to the 2 I have and take the Dip beam, Main Beam, Rear heated window and heater blower motor loads away from the fuse box and by default, the ignition switch. Looking at the wiring diagram fuse 75- fuse 21-22 windscreen wipers connection has a tap off it to feed for heater motor fuse and then another tap off that for heated rear screen fuse - 3 on together make quite a load! That said I think most common one I have read and seen to melt is the main beam inner lights fuse - 150 watts if still using the 75 watt sealed beams - near 13 amps continues load.
After couple long days I am nearly there with 4 relays mounted right next to the Lucas fuse box under the dash - room is a premium there but I did not want relays in the engine bay area and wanted to use existing cables for dip, main beams, heated rear screen and blower motor. I mounted a 6 way blade type fuse box under the dash (see pics) which would supply main load feeds for relays leaving original fuse box to supply just the tiny current trigger feed for relay coils. I decided to go with one main beam and one dip beam relay and use Lucas 4.7mm bullets and black connectors for all connections and use corresponding wire colours where needed from a scrap loom which will make fault finding and identification easier.
Not yet fully complete - had to move Lucas fuss box over to right by 25mm to allow 3 x relays to be fitted to side panel. Then a 4th relays under dash up high next to new fuse box also mounted right under dash. All positioned to allow full access to relays and fuse boxes. Finishing up tomorrow hopefully - so far tested and all ok. One new circuit does not need a relay just a permanent feed - my newly fitted remote central locking! A ‘hidden mod’ and something I thought would be handy and while I had doors apart to do a refurb I thought why not give it a go! I had done on cars back in the day inc when I took out of a Jag XJ doors and fitted actuators to my hillman imp back in 80s! I got the kit off eBay. Not expensive but needed much modification and lots work to fit actuators in the doors and run wiring looms etc. PITA job never again but it works well enough. If anyone interested I can provide insight of experience.
Most of additional wiring put in spiral wrap and kept as tidy as possible under dash. Central locking module placed under dash to right of central consul fixed to bulkhead. Few pics below - not looking tidy as in progress pics but tomorrow will provide finished work pics!
Dave
After couple long days I am nearly there with 4 relays mounted right next to the Lucas fuse box under the dash - room is a premium there but I did not want relays in the engine bay area and wanted to use existing cables for dip, main beams, heated rear screen and blower motor. I mounted a 6 way blade type fuse box under the dash (see pics) which would supply main load feeds for relays leaving original fuse box to supply just the tiny current trigger feed for relay coils. I decided to go with one main beam and one dip beam relay and use Lucas 4.7mm bullets and black connectors for all connections and use corresponding wire colours where needed from a scrap loom which will make fault finding and identification easier.
Not yet fully complete - had to move Lucas fuss box over to right by 25mm to allow 3 x relays to be fitted to side panel. Then a 4th relays under dash up high next to new fuse box also mounted right under dash. All positioned to allow full access to relays and fuse boxes. Finishing up tomorrow hopefully - so far tested and all ok. One new circuit does not need a relay just a permanent feed - my newly fitted remote central locking! A ‘hidden mod’ and something I thought would be handy and while I had doors apart to do a refurb I thought why not give it a go! I had done on cars back in the day inc when I took out of a Jag XJ doors and fitted actuators to my hillman imp back in 80s! I got the kit off eBay. Not expensive but needed much modification and lots work to fit actuators in the doors and run wiring looms etc. PITA job never again but it works well enough. If anyone interested I can provide insight of experience.
Most of additional wiring put in spiral wrap and kept as tidy as possible under dash. Central locking module placed under dash to right of central consul fixed to bulkhead. Few pics below - not looking tidy as in progress pics but tomorrow will provide finished work pics!
Dave
