Timing

J

Ju powell

New Member
Hi all, hope this has posted in the right section!

I'm trying to set the timing with a strobe light, I've tried it on ht lead 1 and 4 but cant get anywhere near the timing lines,
If I turn the dizzy fully anti clockwise I can just see them but not get on them then I run out of movement on dizzy also the car really sounds rough running there am I doing something wrong?
1972 2000sc
 
Hi there. Have you recently removed the dissy for other work? If it’s off a tooth you can have this sort of situation. Another possibility is that if you’ve taken the HT leads off and put them back one position off you can get the car running but still be quite a way off.
 
Yes I've had the dizzy off but it's a dog so no splines! The leads are on how they were originally so presumably there right but will check
 
I would go back to static setting the timing first, then checking with dynamic with the strobe . The distributer can be turned in its clamp plate to any position , its not fixed in one place . Plate is shown as NLS in this picture 20220712_090039.jpg
 
Which timing marks are you using? Bottom pulley or flywheel? If the latter, is there any chance you're using the EP (exhaust cam peak lift) mark rather than the TDC mark?
 
sdibbers said:
Yeah, don’t trust those. The flywheel marks are more accurate.
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Steve, I'm having trouble getting her started, I was using the pulley markings. I've just opened the flywheel plate, cleaned around, no marks. Are they on the flywheel itself?
 
Yes, you'll need to turn the crank over slowly until you see them. They are stamped onto the flywheel edge, IIRC they have marks for 4 and 8 degrees (don't quote me on that) plus the EP mark used for timing the cam. They would've been filled with white paint originally with the edge of the flywheel painted black locally for contrast, but I doubt that's obvious now.
 
sdibbers said:
Yes, you'll need to turn the crank over slowly until you see them. They are stamped onto the flywheel edge, IIRC they have marks for 4 and 8 degrees (don't quote me on that) plus the EP mark used for timing the cam. They would've been filled with white paint originally with the edge of the flywheel painted black locally for contrast, but I doubt that's obvious now.
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I see, I mean I don't see. Just been all the way around, not obvious at all. At least I know now they are there, I'll have another look after tea. Thank you!
 
sdibbers said:
Yes, you'll need to turn the crank over slowly until you see them. They are stamped onto the flywheel edge, IIRC they have marks for 4 and 8 degrees (don't quote me on that) plus the EP mark used for timing the cam. They would've been filled with white paint originally with the edge of the flywheel painted black locally for contrast, but I doubt that's obvious now.
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Is this on s2
 
OK, a long artists brush and spirits did the trick, I can now see 104 | EP ! 108 and I can see the little needle. The 2200 TC is set at 6 before TDC, according to the manual. Would that be the first line to the needle?

For the moment have it at 104 !, my points are closed, the pulley marks that I was going by are no longer visible from the top, and my rotor no longer points at pot 4. She was well out, and it's time for noodles. Thanks Steve.
 
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There should be a small plate with a pin on it bolted to the flywheel casing , used for setting the cam timing. if you unbolt it the pin goes through a hole and engages the flywheel when its on the EP mark - exhaust peak. With the camcover removed a slot in the front of the cam should line up with an L shaped square section key on the front cam bearing. unbolting the L and turning it over enables you to lock the cam in placewhile you work on stuff like the timing chains.
 
jp928 said:
There should be a small plate with a pin on it bolted to the flywheel casing , used for setting the cam timing. if you unbolt it the pin goes through a hole and engages the flywheel when its on the EP mark - exhaust peak. With the camcover removed a slot in the front of the cam should line up with an L shaped square section key on the front cam bearing. unbolting the L and turning it over enables you to lock the cam in placewhile you work on stuff like the timing chains.
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I've read about this and going to check mine on the weekend!
So I can lock the fly wheel and the cam but can you lock the middle gears ie the dizzy sprocket or is there a mark there to use?
 
Dont remember if there is an issue with dizzy location, didnt have any problems in that area with my 2 cars. RTFM.
Note also there is a fine vernier connection between the cam and the top chainwheel- the idea is that this allows you to take up any chain stretch , which will retard the cam (bad for the low end torque). More RTFM.
 
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jp928 said:
Dont remember if there is an issue with dizzy location, didnt have any problems in that area with my 2 cars. RTFM.
Note also there is a fine vernier connection between the cam and the top chainwheel- the idea is that this allows you to take up any chain stretch , which will retard the cam (bad for the low end torque). More RTFM.
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Sorry mate but what's rtfm?
 
Ju Powell:
Definitely read the manual, which explains it all very well including the position of the distributor drive dog when No 4 cylinder is firing (ie just before TDC, both No 4 valves closed). If the drive dog is in the wrong position, it's necessary to remove the distributor mounting pedestal, the drive dog and then the drive gear to reposition it. You'll also need to remove the fuel pump and its pushrod, which is driven by a cam on the drive gear.

The top of the drive gear has an offset slot like that of the drive dog, but not aligned with it. The drive gear is correctly positioned when its slot is more or less in line with the two distributor securing bolt holes, and offset towards the timing chain case. You'll need to lift out the drive dog to see the drive gear slot beneath. If you need to lift out the drive gear, screw a suitable bolt, by which to lift it, into the threaded hole in the centre of the gear provided for the purpose.

Factory manuals are usually available on eBay for not much money.

BrianMac123:
You have found the EP mark and the the degree markings from TDC either side of it. These are not the ignition timing marks. When the ignition timing marks on your bottom pulley show TDC or thereabouts, you should see similar marks on the flywheel.

Hope this helps.
 
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