Timing with FA/TDC mark on f/wheel on 1949 p/3 75 rover.

As stated in owners instruction manual, if set at above mark opposite the pointer in the gear box housing and the octane selector set at "0" on the sliding scale, with the pinch bolt slackened and move the distributor body so that the rotor is pointing to no 1 lead. set the points to just breaking and re tighten, and then set the points to.012in. now is that set to the acceptable level.Will this give me some trouble free motoring, as this car has not been 100% efficient for some time. please advise if iam reading this correctly. best regards Derrick.Smith.
 
Derrick,
Seeing as modern fuel will almost certainly be better than in 49, I suggest setting the timing by ear. Set the points gap when the nylon is on the peak of the cam, irrespective of the timing setting. Also the lowest octane fuel these days can be pretty dirty, so I use 95 at a minimum. If I dont have a better guide I usually advance timing to the best idle (adjusting that down if necessary), and then road test. If it pings under load, retard gradually until the pinging stops. Note that excessive retardation will make the engine run hotter than usual.
 
Derrick,
Seeing as modern fuel will almost certainly be better than in 49, I suggest setting the timing by ear. Set the points gap when the nylon is on the peak of the cam, irrespective of the timing setting. Also the lowest octane fuel these days can be pretty dirty, so I use 95 at a minimum. If I dont have a better guide I usually advance timing to the best idle (adjusting that down if necessary), and then road test. If it pings under load, retard gradually until the pinging stops. Note that excessive retardation will make the engine run hotter than usual.
Thank you jp928 for your imformation,i will try your 95 octane and set up as your instruction and see how mavis performs this way. Thanks again for your advice. Best regards Derrick.Smith.
 
Thank you jp928 for your information,i will try your 95 octane and set up as your instruction and see how mavis performs this way. Thanks again for your advice. Best regards Derrick.Smith.
The car starts immediately and drives nicely but has a bit of black smoke blowing, and when stationery will not idle seems to be flooding any clues or fixes would be appreciated. regards Derrick.
 
Black smoke is rich mixture - is there any sort of adjustment on the carb? Guessing its a Solex 2 throat? Is there an air bleed screw - if so, try moving it but keep track of how far. At this age a new needle & seat in the float bowl might be called for. Do you have the little Blue book for the model? Can you see the carb model no on it anywhere ? Book says it should be a FFIA.
 
Black smoke is rich mixture - is there any sort of adjustment on the carb? Guessing its a Solex 2 throat? Is there an air bleed screw - if so, try moving it but keep track of how far. At this age a new needle & seat in the float bowl might be called for. Do you have the little Blue book for the model? Can you see the carb model no on it anywhere ? Book says it should be a FFIA.
Thank you for your information, the blue book i have shows the solex 32 PAAI model fitted to the 75, same as the one that is fitted on my car. this carb was completely rebuilt a few years ago by B&M fuel systems in melbourne. best regards Derrick.
 
Have you checked the plugs for colour- correct mixture should give a milk coffee result, but will be sooty if last few minutes of running were on choke or idling. Has it ever run well and something changed recently, or it was always like this?
From Dr Google:
For a Solex 32 PAI carburetor, the recommended float level is typically around 22mm (measured from the carburetor body to the top of the float when the float is fully closed), however, always consult your specific vehicle's service manual for the most accurate setting as slight variations may exist depending on the model.

Key points about float level adjustment:
  • Importance:
    Setting the correct float level ensures the carburetor delivers the proper fuel mixture to the engine, preventing issues like poor acceleration, rough idling, or excessive fuel consumption.

  • Checking the level:
    To check the float level, you need to disassemble the carburetor, remove the float bowl, and measure the distance from the carburetor body to the top of the float with a suitable gauge while the float is fully closed.

  • Adjusting the level:
    Most carburetors allow for slight float level adjustments by bending a small tab on the float arm. Bending the tab upwards will raise the float level, while bending it downwards will lower it.
 
Have you checked the plugs for colour- correct mixture should give a milk coffee result, but will be sooty if last few minutes of running were on choke or idling. Has it ever run well and something changed recently, or it was always like this?
From Dr Google:
For a Solex 32 PAI carburetor, the recommended float level is typically around 22mm (measured from the carburetor body to the top of the float when the float is fully closed), however, always consult your specific vehicle's service manual for the most accurate setting as slight variations may exist depending on the model.

Key points about float level adjustment:
  • Importance:
    Setting the correct float level ensures the carburetor delivers the proper fuel mixture to the engine, preventing issues like poor acceleration, rough idling, or excessive fuel consumption.

  • Checking the level:
    To check the float level, you need to disassemble the carburetor, remove the float bowl, and measure the distance from the carburetor body to the top of the float with a suitable gauge while the float is fully closed.

  • Adjusting the level:
    Most carburetors allow for slight float level adjustments by bending a small tab on the float arm. Bending the tab upwards will raise the float level, while bending it downwards will lower it.
Thank you for your recent information.i will give the float level a going over. i wonder if the coil is on the way out, i will get it checked next. sorry to bug you with all this, your input is very much appreciated. best regards Derrick.
 
If the Solex 32 PAAI was fully rebuilt not too long ago, but you're still seeing black smoke and flooding issues, it might be worth double-checking the float height and needle valve. Even a small bit of debris or wear can cause fuel to overflow. Also, if the idle jet or air bleed passage is partially blocked, that could contribute to the richness and rough idle. Might be worth pulling the plugs to see how they’re burning—if they’re all sooty, it’s running rich across the board. Maybe try leaning out the mixture a little and see if it improves.
 
If the Solex 32 PAAI was fully rebuilt not too long ago, but you're still seeing black smoke and flooding issues, it might be worth double-checking the float height and needle valve. Even a small bit of debris or wear can cause fuel to overflow. Also, if the idle jet or air bleed passage is partially blocked, that could contribute to the richness and rough idle. Might be worth pulling the plugs to see how they’re burning—if they’re all sooty, it’s running rich across the board. Maybe try leaning out the mixture a little and see if it improves.
Thank you thomas-11 for your information, the plugs are sooty i have lowered the float level, at idle there is no smoke when reved a little the smoke arrived. best regards Derrick.
 
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