Timing chain tensioner

EddyQ

New Member
I will be putting my cylinder head back on soon on my 1973 2000 SC and the timing chain tensioner is puzzling me despite reading the books on how to set it, any tips please? Also do you use any sealant on the head gasket, thank you all.
 
A tip rather than a how to - a small cable tie around the tensioner before fitting it reduces the risk of dropping it down the inside of the engine. Snip it off once you've finished. Also cram bubble-wrap into the gaps around the timing chain to catch anything you do drop. (I prefer this to rags as it's less likely to leave strands of fibre behind.)
 
According to my Rover Workshop manual, steel Corgasyl gasket should have a smear of "Wellseal" compound on both sides, Composite ones fit dry.
 
No sealant on head gasket. Renew oil way o ring left rear corner of block put a smear of sealant on o ring. Make sure tensioner is clean there is a small oilway through it. Fiddly job to get back in. Clean small gauze filter in cylinder head under oil feed banjo bolt that feeds timing chain tensioner.
 
No sealant on head gasket. Renew oil way o ring left rear corner of block put a smear of sealant on o ring. Make sure tensioner is clean there is a small oilway through it. Fiddly job to get back in. Clean small gauze filter in cylinder head under oil feed banjo bolt that feeds timing chain tensioner.
Do you know how to reset it to refit?
 
Alan key in back turn key 90 and it should retract and hold plunger back. 3 mm Alan key I seem to remember. When installed turn key back and it pops back out.
 
Not all housings have the plug in the back to use the allen key. Those have to have the mechanism assembled into the slipper, and then put into the housing and fitted, and then the slipper has to be pressed backwards into the housing to (hopefully) trigger them into tensioning.
 
No sealant on head gasket. Renew oil way o ring left rear corner of block put a smear of sealant on o ring. Make sure tensioner is clean there is a small oilway through it. Fiddly job to get back in. Clean small gauze filter in cylinder head under oil feed banjo bolt that feeds timing chain tensioner.

I do use a sealant on the head gaskets, but only Hylomar. Personal preference.

Yours
Vern
 
This video explains them:


If you can get hold of a NOS Renolds tensioner they are better. Rolon bought out Renolds I think. The plastic pad falls off the Rolon tensioner. If you do have to use a Rolon tensioner then keep an eye on the pad via the oil filling hole!
 
This video explains them:


If you can get hold of a NOS Renolds tensioner they are better. Rolon bought out Renolds I think. The plastic pad falls off the Rolon tensioner. If you do have to use a Rolon tensioner then keep an eye on the pad via the oil filling hole!
Had that happen to my car. Unfortunately it was the bottom chain tensioner and was a massive pain.
 
I'm just putting OCC's engine back together & noted the following (para 19) in the 'Haynes' manual with regard to the bottom tensioner:

IMG_5738.JPG

As far as I can see, the tensioner on my car is not adjustable:

IMG_5737.JPG

OCC is a 1964 'sharkstooth' car & the 1963 factory manual does not have this step in:

IMG_5739.JPG

Probably not relevant for early cars...?
 
Para 19 is about clearance on the guide, not the tensioner I think you'll find. The tensioners aren't adjustable, they work on spring and oil pressure. You have the plug on the rear of the tensioner body, which you remove to use an allen key to wind the tensioner back in when removing, and to release the spring when refitting.
 
Harvey is correct, though they don't call it a guide it's a vibration damper — prevents the chain whipping back and forth. It's the long rail.

Yours
Vern
 
Ahh..... yes, it does say "guide".....:rolleyes:

I've had the tensioners out & actually understand those now, but must have been thinking about them when I read further.

Thanks Guys!
 
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