Timing Chain Replacement

G

george cook

Member
Am about to replace both timing chains on my 71, 2000TC. According to the WM its a seven hour job (engine installed) This means it will probably take me seven weeks. Any tips, would be greatly appreciated
George
 
Why are you replacing them? If it's because the bottom chain jangles, check the bottom tensioner first, if it has an oil plug in it, make sure that is fitted (not fallen out) and if all the rest of the tensioner is in good order, check the big end and main bearing shells, the chances are they will be worn, causing a drop in oil pressure, causing the jangle.
 
I changed the main and big end bearings recently. This gave me a nice boost in my oil pressure. There is still a "noise " there though, and it does seem to be at the front of the engine.
 
I'd still check the bottom tensioner before stripping out the chains. And if you could post a video of the engine running with the noise occurring that may give a better idea of what's causing it.
 
I’ve had a bottom tensioner fail and lose it rubber slipper in the last. Made a terrible noise. As Harvey said I’d start looking there first. Drop the sump and look up into the front of the block. Check to see if the tensioner still has its plug and rubber foot. It’s a bit tucked away and a bugger to replace but it’s still less of a bugger than taking the chains out!
 
Also suggest you check the rubber faced chain guides for wear and fixings - these have been known to break near the bolt holes and fall down into the sump and make dreadful noises that took a while to diagnose. The way to check a chain for wear is to hold it out horizontal , with the pins vertical and see how much the end sags below the held end - not sure what the allowable sag is but its sure to be out on the web. Many years ago (60s) I met a man with a '34 14hp, and gave him my number in case he wanted to sell it. A few years later he called asking for help with a broken timing chain. When I got it apart the cam wheel was so badly worn by the worn chain that the teeth were too sharp to be held without gloves. I got a NEW chain off the shelf in a specialist shop full of OLD parts. Cam wheel was identical with a P3 cam wheel except for boss thickness , so had a few mm skimmed off, and it was good to go.
 
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