time to protect the underside

hi all recently bought my p6 although solid underneath with no signs of welding been done in the past the old under seal is showing it's age, so time to get underneath and give it a seeing to, so two questions
1. where would be best place to use a trolley jack and place
the axle stands,
2. what do you recommend to protect the underside from the elements
thanks in advance


Well-Known Member
Remove all the underseal and use brushable 2K epoxy going over it with a foam roller for a nice finish. Underseal has absolutely no place in the 21st century.

Expect localized rust to be treated even in areas that appear perfect.
ideally car ramps offer better access under car ( or a car hoist if wealthy!) I tend to use these under front wheels. then jack rear ( ensuring wheels chocked in ramps !!) on the standard jacking point under rear valence as it will ( unless corroded etc?) take full rear end weight as designed for. then fit axle stands under rear suspension arms as near inner pivot /retaining bolt points as i can as this area is strong unless again corroded!. have we checked out locally for car hoist hire? many garages etc now rent out by the hour and it may be worth considering .
I am trying to keep car original where reasonable so my underseal is staying in place but do check for any loss or suspect areas as any water finding entrance will creep under it and we can't see corrosion until it perforates arrgggh . I also use waxoyl sprayed into every crevice i can find . though understand Dinitrol is better product. as I don't us my car when it rains .. or even use water to wash it ..( waterless system) I don't want to risk sudden rotten pear syndrome though one can never guarantee the rust bug wont bite.
sadly I have one small spot where rust has found a foothold ( went through MOT but was an advisory ) so will have to bite bullet and insert a small patch over hole later. ( winter job ) use common sense where placing an axle stands .need s to be in major load area where bodywork is stiffer e.g. near suspension /support points. I have not used the Rovers own built in jacking points as not yet removed outer cover sills ( another winter job sigh) hammerite black metal paint is ideal for touching in any areas here where we see any rust formation on chassis/suspension arms /De Dion etc .
I normally use Waxoyl but a technical guy at automechanika noted that Dinitrol is a better product. Has anyone applied Dinitrol before, how long does the protective coating last? Also does the 'self healing' really work to repair holes in the protective underseal layer. Just been reading the specification here Rust Proofing Spray | Dinitrol 4941 Vehicle Underbody Rust Prevention Also what is the protection like around the wheel arches after a few months driving.


Well-Known Member
Yup, the old girl has her underskirts Dinitrol'd, also all her cavities are waxed up.
The Dinitrol is a good base protector, for belt and braces I black waxed over the top of it. The Dinitrol does go off fairly hard, so the wax helps to keep it soft. Longevity depends on whether you go to the pub on a Sunday afternoon, or use as a daily driver.
I bought the pro wax injection kit from rust.co.uk- a superb investment, and a pleasure to use.
Seems they have deleted the black underbody wax I used, but list another for an electric gun ?


Well-Known Member
I turned mine upside down and took all of the underseal off with a hot air gun and chisel. Treated any surface rust and cut out any rust that had bitten into the metal. Then I painted the whole underside with two coats of a two pack epoxy (Epoxy Mastic 121 from EM121 EPOXY - Rust Proofing Paint ).

Injected all box sections with Dinitrol and then had all of the panels dipped and electrophoretically coated. This is a system where the panels are dipped into various solutions which remove rust completely and stop it coming back, for ever. (Like hell it does :p )

I think I may have got carried away a little :)