The inheiritance. 1976 P6b

Re: The inheiritance. 1978 P6B

interesting.
Do you pull that angled bit off the carb on a V8 or leave it on and fit the filter to the end of it? (ie bit that goes in between the carby and the big U shaped inlet tubes)

Also, went out before and my carbs have got AUD669L and AUD669R (guessing that's left and right). When I do some e-stalking, that tells me that erm, these are Japanese spec carbs. Whiskey Tango Foxtrot... how'd they end up on a NDK Aussie car?

What makes these carbs different to other SU variations on the P6b?

Rovering member - what are Rovers like with a 4 cylinder? I'd imagine a bit slowish?
 
Re: The inheiritance. 1978 P6B

In my view this type of filter - we used to call them "pancake" filters - are very poor. I'm not covinced that they free up the induction that much and you pay in induction roar. The K&N type are very effective functionally, but I do agree that they don't look right on a V8 - too "chav"!

I therefore mounted a pair of K&N look-a-likes inside the existing P6B airbox. And opened out the intake trumpet at the same time. Veru discreet and very effective.

http://www.classicroverforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=6727

Chris
 
Re: The inheiritance. 1978 P6B

ewokracing said:
Rovering member - what are Rovers like with a 4 cylinder? I'd imagine a bit slowish?

Not at all, especially the 2200TC, which should hold it's own pretty well against an auto V8, though I'm talking of manual gearbox equipped cars. The auto's I gather can be a bit 'leisurely', though I've never owned an auto four pot or a manual V8.
 
Re: The inheiritance. 1978 P6B

chrisyork said:
In my view this type of filter - we used to call them "pancake" filters - are very poor. I'm not covinced that they free up the induction that much and you pay in induction roar. The K&N type are very effective functionally, but I do agree that they don't look right on a V8 - too "chav"!

I therefore mounted a pair of K&N look-a-likes inside the existing P6B airbox. And opened out the intake trumpet at the same time. Veru discreet and very effective.

http://www.classicroverforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=6727

Chris


Hmmmm. <taps chin>
Induction roar I can live with, but if the pancake style isn't much chop, that's a different matter.
Just looking at the factory set up, it looks all wrong in terms of fresh air getting to the factory located filter (inside the barrel).

I suppose the other problem with the pancake type filter is that you are basically putting a filter smack bang over the rocker cover (or very close to it) so it's going to have a lot of hot air heading straight into it.
 
geese

So I had a bit of a butcher's hook at the engine last night. Yes it's undercharging :x and I think I also spotted another problem if I used those pancake filters:

211220108096.jpg


It would probably foul on the fuel filter that sits on the Drivers side rocker cover.

Also, is this factory linkage gear?

211220108101.jpg


211220108100.jpg
 
Re: The inheiritance. 1978 P6B

Agree with The Rovering Member,..the linkages are the factory fitted ones.

On the subject of the ammeter, it will read zero when the system is in equilibrium, neither charging nor discharging. If the alternator is not charging the battery sufficiently the ammeter will show a discharge with the needle moving into to the negative side. When charging the needle will move to the positive side. As the system returns to equilibrium so the needle will move back to zero.

Ron.
 
Re: The inheiritance. 1978 P6B

Ah. I thought that might be the case. Oh well, It'll cost nothing and I have nothing to do around Christmas so I might give the alternator and starter motor a freshen up over the break.
 
SAGA

I don't know about you guys, but a friend of mine once told me "you are always in some sort of saga, I think you enjoy it!'

I claimed that it was absolute BS and I kinda remembered why sometimes I actually prefer to pay people to swing some spanners on my cars and bikes. Had oil and an oil filter lined up for today, I was stressing out as I had a funny feeling that I was going to strip the sump plug off. Nope! Came off quite easily really, but not after bashing my thumb into the sump. The first problem was trying to get the oil filter off. It just would not budge. I bent/broke my oil filter removal tool - that's how tight it was on! I gave up and smashed through it with a big flat bladed screwdriver and managed to break the seal, a few more holes, some bellowed swear words and I had the filter off. Going by the "Geo Gobbells" ad hoc sticker in the top right of the windscreen, the last time it had an oil change was about 5 years ago. So picture a guy lying under a car, covered in pitch black oil, trying to find a rag with one hand, while holding an extremely leaky oil filter and looking for the drip dray to put it in. :LOL: There is oil everywhere in the garage too. Hells Bells. Anyway, got that off, filled the new filter with oil and went to put it on. Nup, couldn't get it on. Sat there on the floor and did the "righty tighty, lefty loosey" rhyme to myself, tried again, nope, still wouldn't go on. Eyeballed the old destroyed filter and the new one, yep, pitch and thread size looked the same. Hmmmm.
Came inside, looked on here, annnnnnd I have the wrong oil filter. Somehow I've ended up with a Ryco Z9, which suits Land Rovers. More swearing. Ring up the local auto chain spares place, yes, surprisingly even though it's new years day, they are open. Mad dash down there, picked up two filters that people on here have used, got a small one and a large one. Tested them booth. They fit! excellent. Popped on the smaller one and poured the rest of the oil into the sump, held fingers when I turned it over, oil light goes off. YESSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS! The last thing I had wanted to do was have to pull apart the oil pump to prime it.

I've got more questions too, but now that it has a stomach full of fresh oil AND I organised car insurance yesterday AND it's stopped raining... I'm going for a drive. :mrgreen:


... Next time I'm going to let some other bugger do the work!
 
Re: The inheiritance. 1978 P6B

Excellent, oil and filter changes are one of those jobs where when they go as they should they are a pleasure to potter around at but when they don't you're left with bruised hands, a garage floor that looks like BP have had another oil spill in it and that question of why when the parts cost ~$35-40 to buy didn't you just save yourself the hassle and get a garage to do it for about ~$60.... :)

Still, could be worse - you could have tried to do it after a few drinks too many. I did a top up of the trans fluid on our Discovery a while back when completely plastered, got up the next morning to find a scene that looked like someone had been filming a low budget slasher movie in my garage with red fluid sprayed everywhere and footprints across the floor. Bizarrely the fluid level in the box was perfect, just several extra litres had ended up everywhere else in the process! :oops:

Who did you end up going with for insurance/get a decent deal in the end?
 
Re: The inheiritance. 1978 P6B

That's true. I did once try to change the rear shocks in my old ford laser with my uncle (whose dad owned the rover), too many Crown lagers and it took us hours and hours to do.

I did have some Scotch's last night but I was fine today, just probably a bit more vocal than usual, cursing Englishmen and their reasoning for changing oil filter threads. I think I ended up with a Z9 filter as that is what is listed for a Land Rover 3.5...

You wouldn't believe how cheap the Rover was to insure either Al.
 
Re: The inheiritance. 1978 P6B

Nice one, not sure what the difference is but the filter on mine is a Z160. But then, the engine in mine isn't original so that's prob not a great indicator of correctness for yours.. :)
 
Re: The inheiritance. 1978 P6B

Z160 is the little one, Z30 is the great big huge filter that almost hits the bodywork. That's going on next time. I reckon it'll easily soak up half a litre of oil before I even fit it. haha
 
Questions

1. What does the filter that lives under the air filter look like? I've flicked through the workshop book but can't find a picture of it, does it just look like a fuel filter? Is it this?
GFE7004.jpg

from: http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/ProductImag ... FE7004.jpg

2. Fire traps. Whiskey Tango Foxtrot.
Can I piss these off, block off the hose at the Carbs and just run two little K&N rocker cover breather filters?
ie, like one of these - http://www.knfilters.com/vent_covered.htm

3. Fuel filters.
Mine live on top of the rocker covers, are they just a generic filter or are they p6b specific?
They look like a normal generic filter to me, but they look like they have a screw on fitting?

ie:
211220108096.jpg


If they are p6b specific where do I get some from?

4. The reserve fuel tank and reserve "tap"
How does the reserve tank setup work? Do you pull the knob out to switch to the reserve tank? The knob on my car is partially out ( a few mm), I've tried pushing it back but its not budging.

5. Tachometer. Sometimes the tacho needle sits on 0. If I give the top of the dashboard a slight love tap, it springs back into life, but dies again a bit later. Also, the odometer appears to have stuck. Does anyone know of a good gauge place in Melbourne where I can actually take the whole car in, rather than just the gauges themselves? I'd start to pull everything apart to have a look but I've got another car to finish off quickly and I'm a bit short of time.

6. Charcoal canister "pads". While I was looking for the bit about the engine filter, I found this bit. Can you still get these pads? It notes that they are a serviceable item.

7. Whats the diameter of the p6b hubs? I know the pcd is 127, I whipped a tape measure over the centre hole to measure the bore and got 3 inches, is that right?
 
Re: The inheiritance. 1978 P6B

Hello ewok,

(1) The filter that you have pictured will do the trick nicely. The engine breather filter is indeed a fuel filter. You can of course also use a dedicated breather filter such as made by K & N which cannot be used as a fuel filter.

(2)With the SU carburettors, the flame trap hoses allow an additional air supply via the crankcase. The flame traps provide a means of catching oil vapour which condenses within the traps. In theory what you ask is possible.

(3)Your fuel filter as you suspected is a generic item. When new these will have a flange in the same style as the one in the pic. The flange is filed off and the OEM nuts along with a pair of new olives fitted.

(4)There is no reserve fuel tank per se, rather there are two outlets from the tank, one of which allows all the fuel within the tank to be accessed, the other does not. When you pull out the reserve knob, the tap moves from the main line to the reserve thus allowing access to all the fuel within the tank.

I can't help with 5, 6 and 7.

Ron.
 
Numbers numbers numbers

So, the first number is the body serial number or VIN, what's the second one?

211220108105.jpg


Ron - this is the gauge readout at idle, should the oil pressure be higher?

010120118133.jpg


I haven't gotten around to doing anything about the charging problem either as the workshop was closed over the break.

This is the drivers mirror, there is no passenger mirror. I'm not looking to ditch it straight away but I'd like to get something a little bit less obtrusive and more "period". It's a lukey mirror which I'm guessing is the same company that makes mufflers etc?

010120118129.jpg

010120118132.jpg


I also can't see in it as I sit so high in the drivers seat.

Now, big question, this is what the underside of the drivers seat looks like. How do I remove the spacer(s) or whatever it is that will allow me to drop the seat height down? Where are they for a start!

010120118134.jpg


Reserve tap also sits slightly out, so I'm hoping that that is ok

010120118128.jpg


I'd also like to get another boot lid lining as mine is stuffed

010120118142.jpg


Is this how the jack is meant to sit? What tools come with it? I've found a red X wheel brace after I cleaned out the boot

010120118146.jpg

010120118141.jpg


I also need a new battery holder as the bracket that holds the battery down is bent, so I'm going to ask the tech guys at work to knock one up if they can.

010120118147.jpg



And now for the interesting stuff! This is everything I pulled out of the boot!

010120118143.jpg

010120118144.jpg

010120118149.jpg

010120118150.jpg


Australian guys might remember McEwans hardware stores? Two rolls of Japanese sockets and spanners

010120118165.jpg


Nanna made tool bags

010120118163.jpg


Old Sidchrome spanners

010120118164.jpg


mixed in with stuff like

010120118162.jpg


more tools

010120118170.jpg


and

010120118166.jpg


and - are these the right plugs for the 3.5 engine? I prefer NGK's in my Mazdas but are these any good?

010120118167.jpg


Nice score - I used it the same day on another car!

010120118169.jpg


I take it that these are used in the valve stems on wheels?

010120118174.jpg


Everything from the drivers glovebox

010120118173.jpg


Just the hand tools alone!

010120118172.jpg


I found all of this, plus a spare alternator, an old fuel pump, a GT40 coil (another one is on the car already), bags and bags of hoses and fan belts, a foot air pump, a electric air pump and the little brace to bolt the wheel back into position.
By my count, there were 9 shifters of various sizes in amongst all that stuff! I've had my Nan ring me up as well to tell me that there are more bits and peices to collect so I'll try and get there later this week, I think there is a pair of old shock absorbers in there too along with the tyre cover.

I also gave the car a quick once over to get rid of the leaves stuck under the body lines (ie under the bonnet) and sprayed up the wheels and hubcaps

030120118224.jpg



While I was changing the oil, I noticed the filth caked on to the underside of the oil cap, so I left it to soak with some petrol for an hour or so

010120118155.jpg


She looks very dirty inside, which is not great

010120118156.jpg


The wrong filter wrapped up and delivered to a guy at work for one of his Ford Falcons

010120118159.jpg


My excellent ad hoc oil funnel

010120118157.jpg


I'm still unsure if I can take off the flame traps and block off the hoses to the SU's.

010120118154.jpg

010120118152.jpg

010120118153.jpg


Ideally, I'd run a little stubby filter on each rocker cover and either pancake filters at the end of the SU's or K&N filters on the end of the elbows where the original filter box is now and just use a little rubber condom to blank off the hole at the base of the SUs where the rocker cover hose used to join. If I stop the rocker cover from breathing into the SUs, then I won't get oil fumes lowering the octane rating of the fuel coming into the engine - in theory. BUT, it will probably throw the jetting all out and I'm not sure what the jetting setup is for these particular SUs and if they are any good or not.
Thoughts?
 
Re: The inheiritance. 1978 P6B

Great lot of snaps ewok.....excellent... :D

Ok....the second number..HP 2069 276...is a New Zealand build number. Your Rover was the 2069th car to be assembled at the Nelson plant and was completed in February 1976..(276)

A reading of around 20psi at idle is within the acceptable range. Was the engine hot at the time,...coolant temp say 80 to 85 degrees C?

The driver's mirror is actually from 1976, and was typical of the Rovers which left NZ that year with 4533XXXXE body numbers. As you found out, they are also next to useless when it comes to using them for what they were intended. This problem was typical of the black plastic ones only.

The driver's and passenger's front seat are not height adjustable, the minimum height being what it is now.

The jack sits pretty much as you have it. I wrap mine in a rag so as to reduce the possibility of scratching the body.

The Champion L92YC spark plugs are the correct ones for the engine. Does your engine run with an 8.5 : 1 compression ratio?

How many km are showing on the speedo although by and large oil change frequency is the deciding factor with the RV8. Does look a bit gritty, but mine did too back in the 1980s. The engine had always had GTX and then GTX2. I told a well informed Roverman about it and he said..."crook oil" I said...i have always used GTX to which he replied..."that is what I said". I changed to Pennzoil street machine and the engine continued for another 20 years. Rovers are tough that is for sure.!!

I would be inclined to leave the flame trap arrangement as is, just make sure that the traps, hoses and the brass pipes that accept them are clear. Blockages here will see the engine pump oil out from everywhere...
When you pull the hoses off the carburettors the engine runs like a hairy goat and as you summise you will need to make fueling adjustments along with breathing changes if you do replace them, and at the end of the day the engine won't work any better. You can fit filters, be they K & N or paper items directly into the elbows and do away with the canister, but I feel concern that the filters will degrade more quickly as they will be subject to direct engine heat as opposed to being protected inside the canister.

Ron.
 
Back
Top