The Infamous Series 2 Fusebox

jp928

Active Member
#81
Not being as brave as Vaultsman, I now have an RTC1372 fuse box kit in hand. Mine may be a bit different from his version, so I will add some observations re the interconnects on the part. Most leads etc are as he documented, plus:-
#3 feeds to a double sleeve which then leads to 21 and 23 EDIT-> this matches whats shown on the wiring diagram, but current fuse block does not have the same visible jumper lead. It maybe that the same effect is achieved differently?
#5 has a wire to #7, which has a copper bridge to #9 - no wire comes off 9!?
#11 has a copper bridge to #13
#15 has a copper bridge to #17 - no wire comes off 17!?
I have to say the plastic feels very hard and rigid, not what I expected from the pics of melted units. The sealed bag the unit arrived in is dated 01/08/79...

Next interesting point. Where there is a copper bridge from one point to the next, the bridge is from ONE of the two sides of a fuse clip to the adjacent fuse side clip - ie , looking at #7 from underneath, the left clip of #7 goes to the right clip of #9, and the 2 clips in #9 are not connected. Make sense? This means that a missing fuse can disable 2 circuits - eg if fuse 7-8 is missing, #9 will not get power
Also... on #1, with 2 brown wires coming off, I put a DVM on ohms on the 2 connections where the wires are crimped - zero; flex one of the wires away - open circuit. The 2 sides of the fuse clips are not connected unless the crimps touch, except by the fuse ends.
 
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quattro

Administrator
Staff member
#83
The 2 sides of the fuse clips are not connected unless the crimps touch, except by the fuse ends.
Yes, and that's why they overheat if you use 30mm fuses, and not 1 1/4" fuses, as the contact area is too small, then you get less contact and heat builds, then well... you get the picture. One of the problems is that the brass clips are not connected so have absolutely no spring to them, it's the plastic that provides the springiness to keep the fuses tight, and if it gets hot, it loses it spring.
 

jp928

Active Member
#84
Along the way I noticed little wire clips at MGBD in stainless, intended to pull the sides of the fuse clips together better. At 3 quid each thats not a goer.....but I have some fine piano wire(.036") here....After a few experiments I found a width of square-ish U shape that I could get in at the base of the fuse clips, held them a tad closer, and wouldnt fall out...45mins, all clips done. Along with powering the headlights and horns via relays, that should make the new box last a lot longer - hopefully outlast me. Although the plastic feels nice and hard, a soldering iron tip at 290C melts it readily.
One other daft part - there is a light incoming wire at #21, from which a HEAVY wire (probably twice the section) branches off to feed to #3 - the rear window demister fuse, which is not shown as having a relay!
 
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mrtask

Well-Known Member
#85
I was told to use original fuses if I could get them, as modern replacements are apparently not up to snuff. I have a fair few from the previous owners of my cars, and haven't ever blown more than three in a dozen years of P6ing. Did melt and replace a fusebox once so far in that time, mind. I had owned a few P6s before I noticed there are spare fuses clipped inside the lid of the fusebox!
 

cobraboy

Well-Known Member
#86
I just changed all my fuses for ones of the correct length, I only had one correct long one in the box. I bought them in bags of five, so now have enough for two lifetimes.
 

jp928

Active Member
#87
Recently bought packs of new fuses - checked lengths, and get 31.8mm. Close enough for me. While I was checking the LEDs in the taillights I found the left was coming on as a stop light, not tail. I suspect something has gone wrong with the fitting of a centre brake light on the parcel shelf, and the tail and stop leads confused. Have taken the centre brake out of circuit, and now all is normal. Will sort out the centre light later.
 

jp928

Active Member
#88
I managed to produce a much better (more legible) wiring diagram today- scanned the diagram in the owner's manual - very white clean glossy paper and sharp black print. Blown up to A4 the wiring colours are much easier to read, and the fuse number are just legible as well. Its a 2 page pdf so I can send it if anybody wants it - S2 manual, RHD, 3500S chassis suffix D.
Got the 3rd brake light working OK also.
 

unstable load

Well-Known Member
#89
I managed to produce a much better (more legible) wiring diagram today- scanned the diagram in the owner's manual - very white clean glossy paper and sharp black print. Blown up to A4 the wiring colours are much easier to read, and the fuse number are just legible as well. Its a 2 page pdf so I can send it if anybody wants it - S2 manual, RHD, 3500S chassis suffix D.
Got the 3rd brake light working OK also.
Please may I have a copy?
johnkilfoil at yahoo dot co dot uk
 
#90
just completed my fuse box change from original rover 12 fuse plastic unit to 2x 6 blade type ones. was very fiddly but I wrote down every connection and took pics first.Added a few labels too with connection/fuse number so each wire(s) had good identity. Then cut each wire at entry to crimped brass point in fuse box. one removed fuse box later ..and quiet a bit of time fitting new fuse box/wires up . both having rear entry and spade ends so bit of new crimping involved. not a lot pop room but was eased by having entire car on 4 ramps so bit go ground clearance and a small seat helped a lot. (torch needed too) after much stress and reconnecting battery..tried all circuitsoen by one. aha joy..all systems worked including wipers and heater motor. alas major panic craning over. found NO spark! arrgghh.. left car overnight and next day ..then returning to bet bullet starting checking wires with voltmeter etc an found coil was getting power when ignition on .. checked plug and got a spark when initial crank then No spark after. a full revolution.. scratching a lot of sawdust of head..I checked under wiring loom and found ( forgotten as never used) a hidden ignition cut out switch that shorts coil to earth! switch operated and Presto instant starting.so all well so far. not road tested or Mot'D as being left in storage until next year now as covid etc has stalled almost everything. Not a job I undertook lightly as was stressful but now I can relax with no worries about fuse box melting. might try and upload a pic or tow later if anybody interested . pics attached not in order! hope useful to anybody thinking of doing it. labels are printed and stuck on by me..as easily seen not professional. showing box fully installed with labels. half fuses with other half cover removed. original fuse box both sides. any questions please email me .
 

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cobraboy

Well-Known Member
#92
My fuses are so hard to push in the clips that I have to push at the ends for fear of breaking the fuse in half. All the clip contacts are clean, fuses are new. Now bar the original factory crimp connections failing I cannot see the point in changing the box.
 

mrtask

Well-Known Member
#93
I was taught to push fuses in with two fingers, one at either end, at the clips. If you just push on the glass in the middle of the fuse they can very easily break. I swapped out a melted fusebox for a replacement original item a few years back, and thus far it has not melted. I dare say it is only a matter of time, and writing this is bound to bring on the inevitable. Stan Vaultsman documented a fusebox modernisation on here some years ago. I have his instructions mentally filed for the day I tackle this job. Probably when I get around to upgrading my headlights to something a little brighter.
 
#94
My fuse box is going a bit melty too, resulting in my LH dim light not working all the time...

I'm a bit struck by the amount of work involved in switching to a balde style box. Apart from that, I kinda like the idea of having old-school glass fuses.

Looking at Wins new website, I noticed they offer a new fusebox with wiring. Wins International - Fuse Box (Wired) - 12 Fuse Type (New Genuine)

Installing a fresh one, and making sure I get the proper length fuses might solve my problems too? The Rover only gets a couple of thousand kms a year, so should last me a long time.

Still pondering on what's best to do. :)
 

jp928

Active Member
#95
I got a new genuine fuse block some time ago, and it came with bullets on the leads, each in a female joiner - not sure which vendor it came from. You have 2 possible easy solutions - add relays to the heavy current items - the headlights mostly, and improve the contacts at the fuse holders. If you read back a few posts here you will find that the two sides of a fuse end clip are not electrically connected - a bad idea IMHO. somebody sells little U shaped wire clips to bridge the unconnected fuse clips - these connect the 2 sides electrically, and gives them some added tension. These clips can readily and cheaply be made from 1/32" dia piano wire from a hobby shop - I have posted on this somewhere. Next good thing to do is get a tube of Deoxit, remove each fuse in turn, if the ends look at all tarnished give them a rub with a nylon scouring pad, and apply some Deoxit, replace. Any time I open an electrical connection I apply some Deoxit - improves conductivity.
 
#96
You have 2 possible easy solutions - add relays to the heavy current items - the headlights mostly, and improve the contacts at the fuse holders.
Thanks for the reply jp!

The relays seems like a sensible thing to do anyway, unless you're going down the blade-fuse route. Unfortunately my fuse box has gone so melty, that my LH-dip light fuse won't stay in properly. So I reckon I'm in for a new fuse-box anyway!

I think I'm going to opt for the original style, but I'll try and add some relays, perhaps go for the extra connections in the form of those clips and make 200% sure I use the correct length fuses. :)
 
#97
changed mine for blade type to avoid that situation. fiddly awkward job but doable .got my fuse box on Ebay. with reflection a 12 blade might have been better than the 2x6 blade. be careful to tape and write up each connection! I thought it ended well until I found I had missed a 'link' for headlights between 2 fuses! a bit of fiddling and adding a wire link solved that so do make good notes of links too.(back of fusebox) 3 images provided .2 are new blade system installed . 1= old fuse box removed with no fuses with yellow box that had new blade type in them. good luck. tip..have car raised as its backbreaking kneeling under dash and even car ramps and soft floor liner ( old pillow? ) assisted a lot.I also took pics and wrote down every connection so could easily trace and fit wires. Plus I have told insurance company about this 'modification' .
 

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#98
I replaced my fusebox with a compact 16 way blade box three years ago. Attached is the article I did for the P6ROC Magazine, the wiring diagrams and photos. I've had no issues since and the extra fuseways made changes and "accessories" easy to Existing Fusebox Schematic.jpg Fuse Location Diagram.jpg New Fusebox for GWEN page 1.jpg New Fusebox for GWEN page 2.jpg New Fusebox Schematic.jpg New Fusebox Wiring Layout.jpg wire in.
 
Like a number of forumites, I today found wisps of smoke emanating from Occie's passenger side glovebox. Pulled over and switched off, and it was fairly obvious things weren't looking good around the lower contact for the heater motor fuse. The fuse fitted was a Lucas 15A, but only 30mm long. :roll:



Pulled the fuse and got home without any more smoke, but I need to get it sorted. Given the reputation of these fuseboxes, I'd like to replace it with a blade fuse system rather then have to revisit it again.

From an earlier post on here by Tom W, I found a link to these 6-way rear-entry boxes:

http://www.autosparks.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=1267

Tom's thoughts were to fit 2 of these - I've PM'd to ask if he ever did.

In the meantime, any tips from those of you who've done this job? What box(es) did you go for?

Cheers,
Stan
First thing I replaced when I read about this. I was fortunate enough to have read all about this which I am sure saved a fire as mine was so seriously corroded with the wrong length fuses. I found a brand new (old stock) and at the same time purchased correct length and rated fuses and replaced. But as the car sat in a garage for seven years, it's been an ongoing project. Last year I was hoping to have this on the road. Same thoughts this year...
 
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