The Aussie Flying Banana

Does the front pipe look at all original? The proper first muffler pipe should go above the cross member, beside the prop shaft, with the muffler where your left can is. Using the original 'olive' type joints gives you good seals and makes dismantling easy.
 

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If you are going to stick with that, look into an 'H' fitting - V8s benefit from a pipe connecting the the separate banks, at the right place and size.
 
That's such a great colour. I'd park that in my garage, without a doubt. Nice one, many happy miles ahead to you sir.
 
On some cars the position of the fibre flap semi covering the hole for the steering gear on the passenger side allows water to get into the wiper motor when you drive through puddles or creeks. looks like thats happened to yours...So check there is still something there and it stops water from going near the motor. If the new motor does fill up, you can just ake it out and drain the bowl but you can assemble it 180 degrees out so mark it before disassembly.

RE brakes - The hoses are supposed to be replaced periodically so you might want to do both the rears AND The fluid can turn to grease over time and clog the pipes so you might want to check and clean the pipes while your at it.
M
 
On some cars the position of the fibre flap semi covering the hole for the steering gear on the passenger side allows water to get into the wiper motor when you drive through puddles or creeks. looks like thats happened to yours...So check there is still something there and it stops water from going near the motor. If the new motor does fill up, you can just ake it out and drain the bowl but you can assemble it 180 degrees out so mark it before disassembly.

RE brakes - The hoses are supposed to be replaced periodically so you might want to do both the rears AND The fluid can turn to grease over time and clog the pipes so you might want to check and clean the pipes while your at it.
M

Thanks for the info Mike, will take a look at the wiper motor area.

You are spot on reference the brakes. I replaced all the rear hoses and when removing the old ones I could clearly see where they were clogged with a thickened substance, took quite a bit of effort to bleed the rears through :)
 
Small update, had the muffler reworked by a local company, he’s joined the two down pipes into one, these feed in to a small resonator and then the pipe goes up and over the rear cross member (as original), then in to a new muffler, around to another muffler and then out as a single pipe.

it now sounds like it should! Not like a drag racer!

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I also discovered the issue with the rev counter, the face is making contact with the spindle which is preventing it from turning. I applied a little bit of force to the face against the housing and the needle now moves, I adjusted it to match the idle rev and it now performs correctly on acceleration.

However, when the ignition is off the needle drops down and doesn’t sit on zero, not sure if that is correct, but happy that it’s working. Thought I’d mention the issue in case anyone else has similar!

My brake light switch has died on me so I have a new one on the way for next week and aside from fitting a new thermostat, that’s about it for updates :)

Stefan
 
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