Tachometers

dmblbit

Active Member
Sorry folks; I know this topic has been done to death here in several other threads, but I need to check. I have bought replacement gauges from Dave in the isle of Wight, and the tach has 2 connections instead of the three that are on mine (November 1972 model). Based on my study of the forum, I can use the two connection tach by connecting the bullet connection to the existing Yellow and White wire, and then connecting the other end of this, currently connected to the coil, direct to the distributor lead. I will then need to run a new wire from the spade connection on the tach direct to the coil. I don't want to actually do this until I am sure it's right in case I damage the instrument. This will still leave me with an unused white wire, which was previously connected to the spade connector. Does this sound right?
Thanks in advance
Steve
 
Hi Steve

What year and model of P6 are you fitting to?

Is your original tacho RVI or RVC (written in small letters at the bottom of the face)?

Is the replacement for the same model - ie red line at 6,000 for a 4 cyl and 5,200 for a V8.

Is the replacement RVI or RVC?

Chris
 
Does this image represent how your present tacho is wired?

file.php
 
And here are photos of the two items. According to David who sold it to me it's from a 1973 model. I remain slightly perplexed, because looking at the wiring diagrams for later models in my trusty Haynes manual there are no versions that I can see that have just two connections to the tach.
Steve
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0779.jpg
    IMG_0779.jpg
    195.8 KB · Views: 706
  • IMG_0781.jpg
    IMG_0781.jpg
    192.7 KB · Views: 706
My grateful thanks once again to Darth Sidious for his very clear instructions which have resulted in another stunning success.

In case anyone is interested:
1. The male bullet on the White wire behind the tach is connected to the female bullet on the Yellow/White wire - apparently this delivers power to the coil.
2. The white wire with the spade connection is connected to the spade on the back of the tach - apparently this delivers power to the tach.
3. A new wire (any colour you like!) with female bullet is connected to the male bullet on the back of the tach, and run behind the instruments, through the bulkhead and connected to coil negative along with the distributor wire.

Next up - the carburettors!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0784.jpg
    IMG_0784.jpg
    234.7 KB · Views: 685
  • IMG_0783.jpg
    IMG_0783.jpg
    143.3 KB · Views: 685
  • IMG_0782.jpg
    IMG_0782.jpg
    202.5 KB · Views: 685
I'm glad I managed to help someone! :D Makes a change from throwing sith lightning at my enemies! :p

One thing I would emphasise is that the way the original RVI tacho on dmblbit's P6 was wired; the tacho "sniff" connections were put between the 12v supply (the white pigtail wire with a female bullet) and the white wire with yellow tracer (with a male bullet) that goes and connects to the coil + terminal (via the ballast) (like FraserP6's car is, for example).

Other cars with RVI's (like Brian Northampton's car "Vanessa", for example) have the "sniff" connections between the coil - terminal and the points. I think the wires connected to the sniff connections is a white wire with slate tracer (or white with black tracer) coming from the coil - terminal to a female bullet (which mates with the male bullet on the tacho), and then a white wire with black tracer (or white with slate tracer) having a male bullet (which mates with the female connector on the tacho) which then goes to the points. I cannot recall which colour tracer is on the coil - and which colour tracer is on the points connector on the distributor!

If dmblbit's car was wired like Brian's "Vanessa", it would have been easier in that there would no need to run an extra wire from the dash under the bonnet to the coil - terminal, and then the procedure would be:-

1) The wire with the female spade which powers the original tach (Is that also a white wire?) would also be connected to the male spade on the RVC tach.

2) There's a need to create a short three way wire, with two ends fitted with a female bullet connector, and the third end fitted with a male bullet connector. (Or two wires, one end of one of the wires fitted with a male bullet, the other end of the same wire fitted with a female bullet, and then the second wire pigtailing to a female bullet connector from one of the ends of the first wire)

a) The male bullet of the newly made wire mates with the female bullet on the white with slate (black) tracer wire,
b) The female bullet on the newly made wire mates with the male bullet on the white with black (slate) wire and,
c) The pigtailing female bullet connects to the male bullet on the RVC tacho.

I know you could cut into the insulation, then wind and/or solder a piece of wire, or even use scothloks. But 1) I think that's a bit of vandalism, and 2) in the case of scotchloks, I don't like them being used on an LT circuit because I've seen someone use them on an LT circuit and it caused lots of problems [though in this case of course the important LT current would not actually be carried/conducted by the scotchlok "knife" (that cuts through the insulation)]
 
dmblbit said:
And here are photos of the two items. According to David who sold it to me it's from a 1973 model. I remain slightly perplexed, because looking at the wiring diagrams for later models in my trusty Haynes manual there are no versions that I can see that have just two connections to the tach.
Steve

Well, I did take a bit of a liberty with the picture; it's FraserP6's picture from some 2 years ago when he had problems with his tacho.

His original tacho didn't appear to be working, so purchased another one but found that didn't appear to be working either! I seem to recall that he found the problem was an earthing fault on the bezel and that both tacho's were actually OK.

Nonetheless, it's good to have a working spare tacho!
 
Back
Top