suddenly a rough running engine

Have a look along the loom. There is usually at least one extra wire and terminal which is 12v and switched through the ignition. Its for accessories.

Yes the two wires that join together are the 12v starter wire and the 7/9 volt wire. The 12v wire only comes in when cranking so you can't use that one. Odd that the car doesn't kick when the starter is engaged, then die when you let go of the key. That would be expected if the ballast was the issue. Maybe the solonoid isn't energising the 12v wire? or the connections are too dirty to give the required amps? You could isolate the coil and dizzy completely using a second 12v battery to the plus on the coil (- to body (but NOT a fuel line or carby)). That will tell you if it is a harness wire issue.

Next step would be to disconnect the dizzy and earth the - negative coil terminal. Each time you touch earth you should get a spark out of the coil. no spark would be a dud coil
 
You can take a live off the screen washer pump + to get you going, its right there !

In fact I run mine from there all the time, not worried about it, if the car stops I know to look in the fuse box, never been a problem.
 
@ButterFingers Any news? Did you get back up and running?

No , not yet, I have an auto electrician coming next week to establish what is working and what is not on the electrical side of the car.
An expensive exercise but I have to move forward somehow. This has been going on too long!
I have missed 2 car shows where I could have displayed the car and many local outings with the car club.
Peter
 
update:
auto electrician came last week to investigate the none starting of my car.
He was young and very keen, having previously rewired my Morris minor convertible , several weeks ago.
I had high hopes of continued success!
3 hours later the car was running :), a bit roughly, my timing light stopped working so cant check the timing, until the new
one arrives next week!
He was very methodical, systematically checking everything, one item at a time.
He cleaned the engine and battery earths, the voltage drop from battery to coil was not good. Its a long run as we all know.
After the earths were made good the voltage increased to 11.9 volts, up from 7 volts...a win.
He then connected a direct 12 volt feed from the washer bottle to the coil, bypassing the ballest resistor system completely.
( a tip from another member,cobraboy).
The starter motor turned faster, Wow, it spluttered and backfired a bit, tried again and it burst into life :p
It now needs fettling to get the tune correct

Q: the workshop manual says 8 deg BTDC, is this still correct now that I have a fully electronic distributor?
Q: the rev counter stopped working, is its pickup taken from the coil, if so, I will need to reconnect one of the other wires to the coil, that
he tapped up, never to be used again?


paid the electrician with a bag of gold and on to the next job in the shed...
the Morris minor is crunching the gears, need to adjust the clutch peddle up tight, and try again,
Peter
 
Last edited:
Glad to hear there's progress! I would assume the static advance is the same (8deg)? Hoping to do mine tonight - if jobs are slow enough to let me do it in the work car-park lol.
 
update:
auto electrician came last week to investigate the none starting of my car.
He was young and very keen, having previously rewired my Morris minor convertible , several weeks ago.
I had high hopes of continued success!
3 hours later the car was running :), a bit roughly, my timing light stopped working so cant check the timing, until the new
one arrives next week!
He was very methodical, systematically checking everything, one item at a time.
He cleaned the engine and battery earths, the voltage drop from battery to coil was not good. Its a long run as we all know.
After the earths were made good the voltage increased to 11.9 volts, up from 7 volts...a win.
He then connected a direct 12 volt feed from the washer bottle to the coil, bypassing the ballest resistor system completely.
( a tip from another member,cobraboy).
The starter motor turned faster, Wow, it spluttered and backfired a bit, tried again and it burst into life :p
It now needs fettling to get the tune correct

Q: the workshop manual says 8 deg BTDC, is this still correct now that I have a fully electronic distributor?
Q: the rev counter stopped working, is its pickup taken from the coil, if so, I will need to reconnect one of the other wires to the coil, that
he tapped up, never to be used again?


paid the electrician with a bag of gold and on to the next job in the shed...
the Morris minor is crunching the gears, need to adjust the clutch peddle up tight, and try again,
Peter

more troubles afoot:
on Sunday went for the first club run since the previous troubles , the car ran very well, sounded nice, the after 20 mins running, conked out at the traffic lights just behind a triumph stag convertible, another member going to the meeting point, as I was......:(.
It would not start again, so called the NRMA road service for a tow home.
Finally when in the shed, and cooled down, 2 hours, it started, a bit rough to begin with then ran OK.
Suspect that when the electronic module gets warm, (nrma service mans quote) that it packs up?
has anyone else had this happen with a new unit?
may now have to consider going back to points distributor, unfortunately base plate etc was not returned to me when the old one was first converted to electronic, so sourcing used parts may be a stumbling block?
is there anywhere in australia that rebuilds old dizzys?
Peter
 
Last edited:
Take a spare spark plug, run the car around the block at home for 20 mins until it conks out, plug the spare plug onto a lead and confirm there is no spark before making a decision on the dist. It could be the coil !
You could even go as far as bolting the old ballast resistor coil next to your 12v coil for a test, when the car conks out swop the wires onto the ballast resistor coil and see if she starts up.
 
Take a spare spark plug, run the car around the block at home for 20 mins until it conks out, plug the spare plug onto a lead and confirm there is no spark before making a decision on the dist. It could be the coil !
You could even go as far as bolting the old ballast resistor coil next to your 12v coil for a test, when the car conks out swop the wires onto the ballast resistor coil and see if she starts up.

thanks for the speedy reply...
so many ifs and butts, but all worth a try, guess I will have a busy next week?
Peter
 
Hi peter, not sure where you are up to with the car but I was up at my place at bulahdelah today and I've put what I think is a working late model distributor in my meter box I'f you can get down there to pick it up? let me know and I'll PM you the address
Michael
 
Hi there Mike,
Thank you for the kind offer, greatly appreciated.
to update you on the saga:
$ bought $ a remote module for the new electronic distributor, removed the one that is attached to the body of the dizzy.
Followed the instructions and attached the cables to dizzy and mounted the new module next to the coil position.
Eventually managed to get the car started, a bit rough at first, then it settled down.
Have not taken car out for a test run because within the last 6 weeks disaster struck my hands.
rheumatoid arthritis hit one hand ,then the other, just like that.
Cannot grip the steering wheel, even with power steering, not enough strength to turn.
So now in limbo, specialist appointment 2 months away, living one day at a time, Rover on the back burner.
Think that I will have to sell it, after spending so much time and $, getting it just right for me!
Recently had the complete rear interior reupholstered, only the front seats to go, even have all the materials to do the
front seats, vynal and fabric imported from the UK at great exspence....bummer..
Peter
 
I am sorry to hear this Peter,
Get yourself some Turmeric Powder
Put a Pinch or two in some milk gently warm the milk put into a cup and stir and drink have daily then come back and let me know if you can turn the steering wheel good luck Peter
 
Back
Top