suddenly a rough running engine

#41
Is your dizzy a factory one or has it been retro-fitted? Retro fit kits are only about $100 depending on the type. I was thinking about it last night and I may be wrong - maybe it is still a fuel starvation issue. Still, have you got a measurement that the sensor gap is supposed to be?
 
#42
Is your dizzy a factory one or has it been retro-fitted? Retro fit kits are only about $100 depending on the type. I was thinking about it last night and I may be wrong - maybe it is still a fuel starvation issue. Still, have you got a measurement that the sensor gap is supposed to be?
hi,
the dizzy is a standard 35D8, it is marked on the side near the vacuum thing.
I do not have any sensor gap information, it is just fixed mounted on its base plate, virtually no adjustment, gap looks
to be about 1 to 2 mm.
Peter
 
#44
I had my original distributor replaced as I knew they can be problematic for an electronic ignition distributor.

I purchased one from Performance Ignition in Melbourne. A very nice piece of kit but, as you say they are not cheap at around $800.

Also replaced all leads and coil to quality high performance items.
Car runs very well .

If it is the dizzy, it might be worth biting the bullet and shelling out the hard earned.
Good luck with it mate
 

sdibbers

Well-Known Member
#45
Just a thought on the bad fuel questions. You might want to use some known good fuel from your daily driver. Put some in a bottle with a tube attached to it and have the other end connected to the carb feed so gravity will feed the engine. Try starting it and see if she runs sweetly. If it does you have bad fuel, if it’s still the same it’s something else. After re-reading your reply I do agree the dissy sounds suspect. Have you tried pulling a plug lead to see how big a spark you get to the chassis?
 
#46
Yesterday the NRMA road service came to look at my sad old car.
2 men arrived, the young one was quickly on the job, the older one just stood there and did nothing.
He informed me that he knew about modern cars, fuel injection and the like, but would do his best with my old car :rolleyes:
He managed to get it started, checked the timing with my timing light , said it was running on 6 cylinders and could do no more, they left
after 20 mins. He did mention that he thought that the trouble was in the ignition.....
I contacted local auto electricians in town, I asked if I brought the dizzy and coil into them , could they test for faults, they said NO, they said that they could only test ignition system on the car. .:confused:

So as fault seems to be pointing to dizzy , thinking I should bite the bullet and go for a new electronic one ?
Peter
 
#48
Sounds like it. If you’ve already replaced the cap and rotor and you know the leads are good.
ordered a new dizzy from simonbbc.com will post the results when fitted, hope is does the job?:cool:
wanted to give business to Wins or Wadhams, but they both require units with exchange requirements, so out of the question when living on the
other side of the world , postage both ways would be over the top, so went with the one way solution, just buy it and have it mailed....:rolleyes:
Peter the dizzy...
 
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sdibbers

Well-Known Member
#49
ordered a new dizzy from simonbbc.com will post the results when fitted, hope is does the job?:cool:
wanted to give business to Wins or Wadhams, but they both require units with exchange requirements, so out of the question when living on the
other side of the world , postage both ways would be over the top, so went with the one way solution, just buy it and have it mailed....:rolleyes:
Peter the dizzy...
Fingers crossed!
 
#50
electronic ignition tends to either work or fail with no spark at all. have changed my dizzy from electronic ( points replacement ) to full exchange electronic ( NEC show ) .diaphragm easily checked as per previous answer. comp test is always a good base starting point . then base timing number 1 cylinder . I would assume coil and condenser are ok? bear in mind if we change coil we have ballast resistor in car wiring . Power spark was used by me. had number. rough running .low power issues. rebuilt both carbs with new gaskets . air filters . fuel filters etc still rough when. v cold but gets better as it warms . ideal Ok with slight wandering on rpms ( surge ) around 500-600 . did find lot of. dirt on fuel being dragged up from tank. other than ongoing fuel vapour issues .. when hot engine and stopped for a while. managed to get engine to run well enough to start doing hour run outs around50-60 mph ( my top speeds in the old girl) . if we having what we think are electrical issues ? an old fashioned garage may be useful eg Sun diagnostic or Krypton testing . a these can easily check electrics for you. if all ok? that leaves fuel system. do check each carb ..I used the small lifting pin under each pot ..works as it should . good luck do let all know if you pinpoint a spotter may find a solution helpful.
 
#51
hi there,
today the new distributor and coil arrived from simonbbc in UK. via FEDEX, good job not on a desert island after a storm....
Very well packed in a large box to give it protection from the onslaughts of over zelious post office and airport supermen.
followed instructions, brought engine to TDC on number one( right hand side) looking from the front to the rear of the car.
Inserted dizzy into hole with a slight twist as pushing in. Connected the coil, as per rather ambiguous instructions and tried to start the car.
Result...........nothing, not even a little splutter. Have now emailed simonbbc to confirm coil connections as correct,( red to plus+) and white to minus- terminal on coil? so simple, how could one get it wrong?:eek:
so what now, removed a plug and not wet at all, removed fuel supply pipe at carbie and filled a container very quickly so thinking that fuel starvation is not really evident?
Phewwwww....:confused:
Peter
would have thought that with repetitive cranking, and not firing, that the plugs would be wet?
this car does not run on the smell of an oily rag.....
 
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sdibbers

Well-Known Member
#52
Yeah, at the very least you should be able to smell fuel on the plug. Which carbs do you have? HS6 or HIF6? You could have a stuck float chamber needle valve. Fuel flows into the carb but doesn’t make it to the engine.

Easy way to check things. Try turning over the engine a few times. Then remove the three screws on each carb bell covers. (Don’t confuse them! They must stay paired with their respective carb!). Check the bridge by the jet, they should be wet with fuel. If not suspect the float chamber, stuck needle or float with be the suspect, or a severe blockage inside the carb.
 
#53
Yeah, at the very least you should be able to smell fuel on the plug. Which carbs do you have? HS6 or HIF6? You could have a stuck float chamber needle valve. Fuel flows into the carb but doesn’t make it to the engine.

Easy way to check things. Try turning over the engine a few times. Then remove the three screws on each carb bell covers. (Don’t confuse them! They must stay paired with their respective carb!). Check the bridge by the jet, they should be wet with fuel. If not suspect the float chamber, stuck needle or float with be the suspect, or a severe blockage inside the carb.
hi,
carbies are hif6, is the carb bell cover on the btm ? do I have to remove complete carbie to do your check if space is to restricted?
Peter
 
#55
Nope, the float chamber is on the bottom. The bell is the bell shaped dome on the top :). Has the dashpot damper screwed into it.
Arrr , now I know what you mean, simple job, so if not wet, what is next? remove complete carbie?
I had previously removed the passenger side carbie and had it tested and it was OK.
The fuel goes in on the drivers side carbie and then flows to the other, so that is the one that may be suspect, drivers side carbie.....Murphy's law?
Peter
 

sdibbers

Well-Known Member
#56
Arrr , now I know what you mean, simple job, so if not wet, what is next? remove complete carbie?
I had previously removed the passenger side carbie and had it tested and it was OK.
The fuel goes in on the drivers side carbie and then flows to the other, so that is the one that may be suspect, drivers side carbie.....Murphy's law?
Peter[/QUOTE

If its dry after turning it over (especially with the choke out) the most likely suspect is a stuck float needle valve. Although its weird that both stuck at the same time. Only way to check that is to remove the carb, pull the float chamber cover at the bottom and look at the valve itself after removing the float.
 

cobraboy

Well-Known Member
#57
I had assumed, but maybe should not have, that you have checked there is an adequate fuel supply to the carbs.
Perhaps take off the fuel supply pipe at the first carb and direct it into a canister whilst an assistant either cranks the engine or turns on the ignition if you have an electric pump.
You are looking for a good strong fuel flow. This is easier to do first before pulling carbs.
Once you know you have a good flow right up to the carb then to see if fuel is in the float bowl - remove the vacuum bell and air slide, then take a length of clear washer tubing and push it onto the bridge over the jet and suck. You will get fuel in the tubing if the float chamber is full.
 
#60
hi there,
Still no joy in trying to get the car to start..
Checked the timing again and was spot on.
Checked the firing order via the workshop manuals, was correct.
Checked for a spark from number one plug, the result was a pitifully weak , intermittent spark, from my new electronic distrubitor and matching coil.
Then did the same from another plug, same result. I wonder if these units are tested before dispatch to the other side of the world?
Will email Simon of simonbbc UK and ask!
Another thought... could the starter motor be taking all the power and not leaving enough for the coil?
Previously it had a power-spark electronic conversion kit installed in the dizzy and that apparently had failed after 12 months, so now wondering about this new set up! looks like the gremlins have full board and lodging during the last 4 weeks?
Peter
 
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