Stuck Thermostat Housing

Steve

Member
Thermostat Housing Gasket leaking, managed to get the 3 nuts off the studs ok, but can't shift the housing up off the studs, tried levering, small chisel at the join and hitting upwards with a copper hammer, but scared to hit too hard as its aluminium so probably corroded onto the studs. Would a blowlamp be ok to use on the aluminium? Suspect that will have to drill out down side of each stud and split housing with a sharp cold chisel, short term maybe easier to resort to Radweld and forget about it. Any ideas?? Steve
 
I would try heating it and then cooling with penetrating oil a few times. Also soak overnight first in penetrating oil.

If you do break a stud, then you will need to weld a nut onto it to back it out.
 
if studs look OK? then we are better of sacrificing housing. these are far easier to replace than a stud that may be corroded into position. the crud/corrosion that occurs from dissimilar metals will cause adhesion to stud/housing and likely also eat into both! so we get a weaker stud .. do check them when housing is removed. I would def be soaking plenty of easing fluid if possible . failing that drill a small hole(s) in housing near stud but taking care to avoid drilling into stud threads if possible. that will allow us hopefully to slowly remove the strength of alloy around stud ( and possibly allow more anti-sieze fluid penetration) as alloy gets weakened we may be able to lever/chip at various points .sooner or later.. it will lose its adhesion. a small blow lamp such as used for kitchen cooks can put a good amount of heat on alloy . since that expands faster than steel we may get a helpful easing situation.
 
if studs look OK? then we are better of sacrificing housing. these are far easier to replace than a stud that may be corroded into position. the crud/corrosion that occurs from dissimilar metals will cause adhesion to stud/housing and likely also eat into both! so we get a weaker stud .. do check them when housing is removed. I would def be soaking plenty of easing fluid if possible . failing that drill a small hole(s) in housing near stud but taking care to avoid drilling into stud threads if possible. that will allow us hopefully to slowly remove the strength of alloy around stud ( and possibly allow more anti-sieze fluid penetration) as alloy gets weakened we may be able to lever/chip at various points .sooner or later.. it will lose its adhesion. a small blow lamp such as used for kitchen cooks can put a good amount of heat on alloy . since that expands faster than steel we may get a helpful easing situation.
Thanks, its what I resorted to in the end, drilled a series of holes and then using WD40 and a very sharp metal chisel broke lumps off until cover became loose, it fought until all the metal around the studs was removed, however hopefully studs are ok, will find out when I re-assemble. Wins were out of stock but managed to get one from a local chap (Theydon Bois) who could spare one from his hoard of spares needed for his P6 fleet - 1970's 3500 and 2 x 2000's from 1960's, one was fully loaded lots of instruments, speed control and a split sunroof that could open passenger and/or drivers side but couldn't demonstrate as was snowing.
 
Back
Top