Stiff window winders..

Hi there,
My drivers side window winder is becoming very difficult to operate, almost a 2 handed job!
What is involved in making them smooth and easy to wind again?
Is the internal winder part easy to lubricate and what with...oil or grease of some kind?
Hey Peter, you may have to have a look first. Not saying this is your problem but
mine was doing the same , but on the passengerside, and found the metal channel holding the glass to the regulator mech had rusted to the point it made the glass lopsided as it went up. There is nothing to the mechanism,being simple in design and found it
easy to lube with grease on the teeth and on the spindle.
I have some spray lube for motor cycle chains, bet it is just the thing for the job, now to find how to remove the door card....
have a sturdy 3 foot crow bar used for wrecking old houses, now bet that is the thing for the job?
Peter the inquisitive.....;)
But start with the door pull screws as they can rust and become a real pain to remove. Don't even start unless you have a screwdriver that fits perfectly. Typically, they'll start to unscrew nicely then get tighter and seize once the rusted ends are reached.
Providing you can slip a 6' scaffold pole over the end for some extra leverage, then yes.
I have a good selection of "little helpers", various lengths of varying dia pipes. Used this week in replacing the clutch in relies 4x4 Ute on the bell housing bolts etc.
Tried to bleed the clutch late pm and would not bleed, read accompanying instruction with clutch kit and it refers to "clutch damper diagnosis" problems and have never heard of this part of
a clutch? any ideas where it is and how to test it, if it is not working?
Grease will be better than any spray oil product. Often, the problem is largely that the 50 year-old grease is hard as a rock. There is a bit of fiddling to get the winder right out of the car, which is the only way to really grease it up right, and I've found that a cheap plastic woodwork spring clamp works a treat to hold the window up. Otherwise you need a third hand to hold the window up while extracting the winder. And dropping the window can end up with lots of small window bits in the bottom the door and another headache.

haha yes that wouldn't be good.
Your right on being fiddly to get out. Ive done 6 doors (2 cars) and two doors to go,(painting the doors and tidying up the insides)
so almost can do it blindfolded.
Looks like so far my series 2 has been attacked before as I have found missing screws (the big ones at the top of the door) I hope the hardware store has something I can use?
removed the passenger side front door card to use as a pattern for the drivers side door card, found it to be in the same state of disrepair, falling to pieces at the front btm corner.
So inspecting further I found a piece of metal on the door floor, it was the forward window winder section. The support channel to the glass has almost rusted away and only winding up using the rear channel.
Q: how do I remove the glass channel and install a new one from Wins, do I have to completely strip the door and remove the S/S top frame etc?
Hi there,
Today I received the new passenger side window winder channel from Wins. It was quite difficult to fit but eventually I managed to slide it over the wheels.
Note: I discovered that in cleaning the wheels that they are spring loaded and need a push backwards to enable the engagement of the channel to wheel.
I fitted the rubber sleeve into the channel and then onto the glass.
Q:- it is working OK without any sealant on the rubber sleeve and channel, SHOULD I use sealant ( silicone) to make it permanently seal to the glass and metal channel?


the old and the new window lifting channels..
Hi Peter , I would think you would have to remove the s/s frame to replace the whole frame?
Not 100 per cent on that.
I'm no expert but would think you wouldn't need to use sealant if there is enough grip to the glass.
Hi Peter , I would think you would have to remove the s/s frame to replace the whole frame?
Not 100 per cent on that.
I'm no expert but would think you wouldn't need to use sealant if there is enough grip to the glass.
Hi there,
I fitted the new channel without removing the whole s/s frame, just the black cover on the top of the door inside, then squeezing my hands down the gap between the glass and door top, after I discovered the spring loaded wheels thing , it went on with a bit of push and shove.
The glass is gripping well on the channel so I will leave it alone for the time being. The glass is quiet heavy and thank goodness for gravity...:)


Active Member
Finally got into my drivers window stiffness. No hard grease anywhere, but a bit dry, so applied some silicon lube everywhere. Almost all the travel is now good, except for the top 1-1/2". If I push the glass outwards its a bit easier, but thats not a solution. I suspect there is something wrong inside the gear system, but the manual is not very clear on removal - undo 4 bolts, disengage from the window channel, withdraw upwards...? Any suggestions or hints please?
That procedure works with the frame in the door. The tracks the rollers engage in allow the rollers to slip out, and then you can manuevr the mechanism out of the door. All you need is three hands.