PepijnWK
Active Member
My 3500 autyo from 1976 will not start . So tried a lot of things and also changed the starter motor for a refurbished one I had ion the shelf.
This starter motor was the early type. It is a lot bigger and therefore a pain to install!!! But I succeded.
This starter motor had a solenoid with only three connections! where as my original one has 4!
see the pictures below:
as you can see the new solenoid has trhe thre connections.
The guy who refurbished it said that the wire whish is supposed to go to the coil can be attached to de big screw at the solenoid. Here numbered with 1. As this is giving 12 volt when the ignition is turned to really start the engine.
The other connection ( numbered as 2)is connected to the starter relay.
The las not numbered connection is the direct 12 volt from the battery.
the old situation with
1 connected to the coil
2 connected to the starter relay
3 connection to the startermotor. This is the point where the guy said tha with the refurbished one this point can be use to connect to the coil.
The problems i now have with the connctions as in the upper photo (thus the connection to the coil direct connected to the big screw to the startermotor) are the following:
With the with the key in the on position so bejust befopre the start position I have only 0.5 volts between earth and the + from the coil. When I take of the wire from the coil that is connected also to the solenoid I have 8.6 volts wich is acceptable and understandable becaus of the resistance wire which should give about 9 volts.
So what I do not understand is is why does the voltage drop as soon as I connect the coil(+) tot the solenoid. If I do this with the old setup this is not the case!!!!
Does somebody understand what is going on? what do I miss??
from al the experiments i found that the ignition is faulty and that \I need tp replace the electrnic part of my ignition which is a Lucas 35PE8 unit from a SD1.
Somebody any options for the best solution? I was thinking of a pertronix unit to place in the distributor replacing the old electrnics.
So quite a long message........
This starter motor was the early type. It is a lot bigger and therefore a pain to install!!! But I succeded.
This starter motor had a solenoid with only three connections! where as my original one has 4!
see the pictures below:
as you can see the new solenoid has trhe thre connections.
The guy who refurbished it said that the wire whish is supposed to go to the coil can be attached to de big screw at the solenoid. Here numbered with 1. As this is giving 12 volt when the ignition is turned to really start the engine.
The other connection ( numbered as 2)is connected to the starter relay.
The las not numbered connection is the direct 12 volt from the battery.
the old situation with
1 connected to the coil
2 connected to the starter relay
3 connection to the startermotor. This is the point where the guy said tha with the refurbished one this point can be use to connect to the coil.
The problems i now have with the connctions as in the upper photo (thus the connection to the coil direct connected to the big screw to the startermotor) are the following:
With the with the key in the on position so bejust befopre the start position I have only 0.5 volts between earth and the + from the coil. When I take of the wire from the coil that is connected also to the solenoid I have 8.6 volts wich is acceptable and understandable becaus of the resistance wire which should give about 9 volts.
So what I do not understand is is why does the voltage drop as soon as I connect the coil(+) tot the solenoid. If I do this with the old setup this is not the case!!!!
Does somebody understand what is going on? what do I miss??
from al the experiments i found that the ignition is faulty and that \I need tp replace the electrnic part of my ignition which is a Lucas 35PE8 unit from a SD1.
Somebody any options for the best solution? I was thinking of a pertronix unit to place in the distributor replacing the old electrnics.
So quite a long message........