Starter motor M45G with solenoid of 3M100?

SydneyRoverP6B

Well-Known Member
Staff member
#21
Hi Marco,

Having experienced this also and agreeing with Colin's thoughts, the ignition switch is the likely culprit. The switch is behind the ignition barrel, an arrangement of contacts and tiny springs. The resistance that you feel when you turn the key to start the engine being provided by these springs.

Ron.
 
#22
Hi Colin, Ron,

thanks! Is this something that can be tested and repaired, or will the small springs and contacts go flying all over the place? ;)
According to the WM i would have to remove glovebox and steering column to get to the ignition switch?
How to hotwire the leads i really have no idea... I'll have a search on the forum, possibly something will come up.

thanks, marco.
 

SydneyRoverP6B

Well-Known Member
Staff member
#23
Hi Colin, Ron,

thanks! Is this something that can be tested and repaired, or will the small springs and contacts go flying all over the place? ;)
According to the WM i would have to remove glovebox and steering column to get to the ignition switch?
How to hotwire the leads i really have no idea... I'll have a search on the forum, possibly something will come up.

thanks, marco.
It is very much a fiddle to remove the switch Marco. There are tiny screws that locate the switch in from behind, so many hours of unwanted excitement to remove :rolleyes: I fitted a NOS item when mine failed, but upon inspection of the replaced one, the springs will jump for freedom once you open it up. In my case, to further narrow the problem to the switch, when the key was turned, the engine would jump but it would not catch. This behaviour became quite tiresome after a while, so I had to lie upside down for some hours in order to remove the switch and fit the new one.

Ron.
 
#24
Oh, no. I usually try to solve everything with brute force... :rolleyes: I'll try to be as unexcited and careful as possible... My fine motor skills aren't what they used to be.

In my case, when turning the key when the oil-light didn't light up: the startermotor jumps, doesn't catch (but screeches and then rotates in its housing (hopes this "explanation" makes sense)). It sounds like the pinion doesn't fling out completely or too short to engage the flywheel (engine doesn't jump at all when this happens).

best regards, marco.
 
#26
Thanks! This helps a lot to understand the thing!
Tried to view your page yesterday, but the photographs didn't show...?

Does the lock mechanism have to be removed, or does this just help to get the switch out in its entirety?
And another question: did you prise it out because you couldn't loosen the smal screws that fixate it?

best regards, marco.
 
#27
No you don't have to remove the lock unit, the switch is accessible from the dashboard. I didn't know about the screws at first which is why l prised it out. :rolleyes:
I had a spare complete locking assembly so used the switch to replace the one in my car.
I still have the lock though it's LHD & l can't use it.

So can you see the photos on that page as they seem to be visible to other people? It might be Photo*uckit who shot themselves in the foot some years back & eventually put people's photos back in place with their watermark.
They should be visible to you though.
 
#28
Aha! Thanks again for your explanation!
Okay, i'll try to remove the screws and hopefully the switch will come out in its entirety. Is there something to clean there, or just replace?

The photos are visible (with watermark), i just have tried (i think) to open the same topic, but couldn't see the photographs. Maybe i wasn't logged in...
 
#30
I had some time finally to have a look at the P6.
Check the ground of battery, startermotor, solenoid, engine, relay and cleaned every connector and contact at the ignition switch.
The oil-light stays on now (!), but the startermotor still engages only 3 times out of 4.

I then followed the last (unchecked) thing connected to the solenoid, not knowing if this influences anything.
And weird enough saw this: see below.

_1260149_kl.jpg

The car has Pertronix electronic ignition, but the condenser is still there and connected to the coil with a piggyback spade? Same white-yellow wire as the one connected to the S-terminal on the solenoid.
And: the ground-strip (lower arrow) hangs loose, not connected to anything behind the left front light...
Another photograph, with the piggyback connector better visible. Has been there for as long as the former owner can remember...(10yrs).

Ignition Cathedral Classics.jpg

Is this condenser neccessary (i thought not from various topics on this forum), what could it do now, and, could it be the culprit with the starterissues?

Thanks again all of you,

and best regards,

marco.
 
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